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Igol

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  1. I stuck one of these on my Disco some years back: https://www.ebay.co.uk/i/123825184398?chn=ps It was far better than the internal window mount thing I wasted my cash on before and kept decent reception even in poor signal areas. Mounted just forward of the sunroof so running the cable was bit easier as I could hide it behind the little pockets up there before tucking it into the A pillar trim.
  2. Yes that would make sense wouldnt it 😁
  3. One of the many minor fixes for my MOT was sharp bits on the rear quarter panel due to accident damge. This happened back in 08 and has passed since then but hey ho a bit of plating and filler and jobs jobbed and she passes on the retest. Yesterday I had to fill up for the first time since the MOT and noticed some diesel was by passing the tank and pouring out over the mudflap bracket. It seems I have managed to drill into the filler neck when I was rivetting the plate on, whoops. Now as it should be a neat little hole I'm hoping that some fettling with the soldering iron will let me do a bit of plastic welding, but other than the easy jubilee clips for the breather and filler pipe is it just the grommet holding the pipe in place and should I assume that it will be destroyed in the process and get one in?
  4. Thanks for that. Tomorrows plan is to make use of my daughter's hair elastics and extra long needle nose pliers and see if that'll work as a temporary fix.
  5. Having had the door card off the linkage rod to the handle has come adrift as expected. I'm assuming that the threaded rod with the pin linkage will have had a nut or something on the back of it to stop it coming off the lever, this has rusted away and obviously if you slam the door shut the pin jumps out of hole on the lever. Anyone know the part number for this assembly or a clever fix given the lack of room? This is the catch end rather than the fairly easy to access handle end btw.
  6. Thanks for that. It seemed to be working fine after I posted and typically when I take it for the MOT I think the linkage rod has come away and they couldn't open the door Will the RAVE CD have a diagram? Though I've put it somewhere safe Still a new ARB link a bit of fettling with 'sharp' body work and a loose rear sub-frame attachment bracket (I'm hoping that's fairly obvious when I get under with a lamp) and she's sorted for another 12 months. Much to the wifes delight
  7. I already know what the issue is but I just want to double check my solution. I've found that my passenger and driver door wouldn't open from outside without either locking and unlocking/standing at 45 degrees and surprising the handle or the often more common one, giving up and going in another door and climbing across. After a bit of investigation I discovered that LR had done another quality job with the door linkages (as they did with the bent pin that 'secures' the diff lock) and that I could actually open the door if I pushed against it. Now one of my may repairs I've done was fitting new inner wings which obviously meant removing the doors. So eureka moment, doors have dropped after refitting and this is stopping the catch releasing. A bit of light bending to the internal door rods which have loosened with age and door slightly repositioned and the problem was solved......... Well for about a week. So I'm now facing unbolting the wing again and jacking up the door again to reposition it prior to the MOT, but I'd like a more permanent solution. My current theory is that a few HD washers behind the lower hinge will shim out the door and lift it so the catch can disengage when I pull the on the handle. Anyone else had this little problem or see any flaws in the plan?
  8. Out of interest has anyone actually had their wheels nicked off an old Disco? I got sick of riding the cusp of ragging the locking bit/slipping off and bashing knuckles on hard bits every time I removed a wheel for a job and replaced the lot with standard nuts. Round here they take the whole thing not just the wheels.
  9. Thanks folks, I'll go an stock up on cutting discs then ?
  10. I've just swapped the tranny and dif oils and noticed a new selection of leaks/oil spray on the bottom of the engine - the nice white oil filter now has a dirty oil coating on one side along with the coating of rust preventative oil on the axle, steering gear...... Needless to say along with the buggered sump plug threads I've diagnosed a failed gasket, plan is come the next long weekend I have is to pull the sump, stick it in the parts washer (the old garage dishwasher on a high heat) and then either re tap or helicoil the drain hole before a new gasket and bolting it all back on. So with the dishwasher cycle should only take 2.5 hours for the full job...... I'm lying to myself there aren't I? Any advice from the wise collective on here? Is there going to be enough meat on the drain hole to let me retap and stick the next size up bolt on it or is helicoil the way to go and if so what size kit am I looking at? OEM gasket or anything aftermarket that doesn't come in a blue packet? And finally its just going to be undo x number of bolts, jiggle it about a bit and pull it off isn't it?? After all theres a good 3 litres of oil coating the existing ones so they cant be seized and I will not need to use LR no1 tool (grinder). Or just say sod it and buy a new sump?
  11. My draining technique has been mainly wedging open the valve for a few weeks then a very slow and wet drill through the valve so there's no chance of a spark. Once the valve is totally buggered and opened out its in with the funnel, fill with water and again leave alone for at least a day (though last time it was a few weeks) then its out with the No1 LR tool and grind off the valve. After that I've been happy enough to cut into it and burn it out to get shot of the propane smell and paint. They seem to have gone quite well on flea bay with free shipping. I'm onto my Mk2a now though they're obviously a seasonal product and my last one has been stuck for about 2 months now . To my mind this is the time to start fitting one ready for the winter so your not having to be routing flues in the cold and wet.....just the normal wet
  12. My MK2a test burn. Pumped out a nice bit of heat in my 4x8 m garage and moved the thermometer from 4 to 18 degrees in half and hour (with the door shut). It was finished in a nice coat of black stove paint and sold last week on fleabay, the next one is just waiting the coat of paint and I'll be listing that this evening. And before anyone says, the Mk1 that normally sits there is a bigger bottle so that's why theres a jury rigged stack of bricks supporting it
  13. You need to factor in just how tight I am A weekly trip to the local industrial estate with free fuel as a result and you often got some pretty substancial packing thrown in the skips. Quarterly gas bill was about 30 quid as it only did the hot taps and cooker. My wood store (wheely bin) is currently empty so I need to go for a bit of a recce when I m on nights this week.
  14. Definitely a control issue there. I used to heat the whole house on a Disco full of pallets once a week unless it was a bad winter, so your only looking at 4 to 5 in the boot. You should be getting heat radiated from the stove itself rather than having to have the door open, which naturally increases the burn rate. I've been more than impressed by the heat the gas bottle burner chucks out. Last week when it was -2 outside first thing it was up to a pleasant 15 degrees in the time it took to get a brew and by the time Pop Master had finished I had to open the door as it was an uncomfortable 31 in there. I've stopped loading it up so much and can get a comfortable 21 while I've been fetteling.
  15. The only issue I recall when I decatted mine and fitted a defender downpipe was the fiddling around to get it past the cross members and bodywork. Once I clicked that I just needed to jack up the cab it slotted in no probs then it was the normal selection of skinned knuckles and blood when trying to fit the rubber hangers.
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