qwakers

glad to know i could help :-)

bought? its free if you look in the tech archive iirc

it seems to describe me quite well too! i sold my motorbike after buying my landie.. does this mean im old?

discovery or rangerover bottle jack. it looks like this.... the Mercedes sprinter jack is similar.

yeah you wont cause any appreciable oil pressure and as for compression, you could always pop the injectors back out...

just leave it 24hours for it to cure fully before starting it...

a good example of lubricated for life is the pk6 gearbox fitted to the renault laguna 2. it is almost entirely the reason the laguna got a poor reputation for reliability. its possible to change the oil though and i do it every 50000 or 5 years. dads car ( i bought it new and passed it on to him a few years ago) has now done 190000 and its perfect, 99% of cars have eaten there gearbox before 100k..... then theres the stupidly long service interval that kills the turbos, i always do the oil change yearly or 10k, whichever is sooner, again the turbo is still perfect. go figure...

this one you mean? http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/LAND-ROVER-RANGE-ROVER-P38-CD-CHANGER-CABLE-HARNESS-OEM-AMR6302-/131512695592 lots of hits on google https://www.google.co.uk/search?q=AMR6302&oq=AMR6302&aqs=chrome..69i57j69i60.123j0j4&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8

bearing fit wont work because it needs to be compressed to practically nothing before it will cure. this stuff is designed to fill tiny gaps (0.2mm) and will go off in 5 mins and cure fully in 24hrs, after which it has a 30 N/mm² shear rating. (yes that was straight of the datsheet lol) my point being, although expensive, its great stuff and i wouldnt be without a bottle of it.

ive used this to good effect in similar sealing situations... but no guarantees... https://www.tool-net.co.uk/p-401610/bondloc-b63850.html?gclid=CJ3ju5PHqswCFaoy0wodqwgK7g

i used plastigauge because i had some kicking around (after rebuilding a yamaha r1 engine, putting a high lift cam and porting and polishing it whilst i was at it, god that was quick 175rw bhp but thats another story lol) but yeah anything that will tell you what gap is left will work.

are you sure its a td4 and not a 2.0 diesel? i only ask because as you say the td4 has a chain driven timing gear and as far as i can see only one belt on all the auxiliary devices, however the 2.0 is belt driven.......

on my discovery 1 I've had a issue with the brakes for a very long time. but as i haven't driven it for a year that's not so bad lol. anyway, sometime late in 2014 i broke a brake pipe, dumping all the fluid. and this is where my problems began, i replaced all corroded pipes and bled it it but i couldn't get a pedal, no matter how hard i tried. so i decided i must have damaged the master running with no fluid, so i bought a refurb kit and refurbished it. this was fine for about a hour but then the seals failed again. rather than rebuild it again i just replaced the master with a Lucas part. the brakes now worked but with a very long travel and you couldn't get them to lock. this was the state of play September 2015... (id been doing my house up so hadn't driven it ) after much pondering and reading i decided that as id replaced everything else it must be the servo push-rod free-play. I've never adjusted this and looking online i couldn't find a good write-up on how to adjust it so i got my thinking cap on and came up with my solution. first off this can be done with the brake pipes attached but it is far from recommended. they will stress fracture very easily so i undid them all first. then i took the master off, this reveals the push-rod and its adjuster. then i took a piece of plastigauge and attached it to the end of the rod. (do NOT squash it lol) i then put the master back on and pushed it home, then removed it again. as expected the plastigauge had not deformed at all, i then pulled the push-rod out and using a pair of pliers to hold it i undid the threaded part 2 turns. to refit the push-rod i put a breaker bar between the brake pedal and the seat to hold the brakes on and used a long-reach socket to push the push-rod and its retaining clip back in. i then removed the bar from the brake pedal and refitted the master. id gone a bit too far and deformed the plastigauge so the push-rod must have had no Clearance to speak of. i repeated the process until there was JUST a dimple in the plastigauge to show the rod was nearly touching the master, this leaves clearance so the brakes don't lock on when everything gets hot. refitting is the reverse of removal as they say in the book of lies, and once bled up i drove it down the lanes and nearly ended up through the windscreen. the brakes have NEVER been that good...... must be all the new hoses, calipers, discs and pads I've fitted to try and fix what turned out to be a 20min adjustment. so those of you who say their brakes have always been carp no matter what they do.... try this. it works.

id edit that and say buy a set of DECENT easy out extractors. a lot of the cheap one on the market are brittle with the results you can imagine.....

id worry more about how much damage was done by running on its own oil and potentially starving itself of lubricant as it did so. you could spend a fortune on a new turbo to find out it has buggered big ends, scored bores etc......

a three hole gives more clearance than a 2 hole so it won't cause any problems. you might loose 1-2bhp so not a lot to worry about lol

just do yourself a favour and dont tow with one. it killed mine in short order. :-)

if it says nothing in the log book then as far as i am aware either it defaults to 3.5ton, or you cant tow anything. that particular law is a bit fuzzy lol

anything that had one fitted as standard under the new ruling as far as i know.

if you remove the cat it will fail its next mot

105 on the road if you discount mine, it stated life as a 200 series mpi and is now anything but a mpi. and also anything but road legal

look in the scrap yards or on ebay for the factory jack for a discovery or a rangerover.. they are a bottle jack with a curved saddle for the axle.

that looks like fiberglass so the best option would be to gelcoat it.

look at raising hinges. no idea what the proper name is but the door gets further from the floor the more you open it....

look at 'external' roller shutters. they dont intrude on internal space at all. little more spendy but what i would have gone for if id gone that route.