qwakers

very helpful, thanks. i will check that and the injection loom (being as its the last thing i touched) on sunday and report back

GRANTED but prevention is better cure

if that was aimed at me, then the steering guard gets clouted regularly enough to be worth its weight in gold.most of the offroading id do is punch hunts and they can be hard on a truck and as the time limit is quite tight im usually in a hurry :-P

tell that to my drag link. clouted it on a tree stump i missed seeing on my 1st ever go at offroad within 5 mins of starting. these things happen offroad.

1995 4.0 se. so in theory if i pulled the engine earth off....

my p38 has a parasitic battery drain. after settling its a constant 0.53a until i pull maxi fuse 1 when it drops to 0.40a. ive pulled every fuse with no change, have also disconnected alternator and starter. i dont think its the remote transponder as its constant. any ideas?

engines in the factory are assembled with lube on all the important parts.... certainly not dry.

i've relatively recently done the new to offroading thing. ive learned a thing or two in the process listed in order of importance: 1) get a steering guard and diff guards. if you need to drive the truck home they're invaluable. 2) get good recovery points. mine is a tow bar and the steering guard, but i also have a winch. after that the 'optional but nice' stuff comes in 3) winch. means you can get yourself out of trouble (or in my case, further in before you need help. lol) 4) mud terrain tyres. better on the road than you'd think. and of course a jack, tyre pump and simple tool kit for when you break something...

New rad and its all good.... i think. 15 miles of high speed running and the needle didnt budge. if it hasnt used any water when i check it tomorrow then we're good! the rads core was completely rotten. its first appearance of being in good nick was misleading...

fairly sure yeah.

stat replaced. much better but still overheating and cold patches all over the rad. time for a replacement.

yeah i think thats the one ive got. ta.

as far as i can find, haynes never did a manual for the p38. however i do have a service manual for it... which doesn't mention the location, so thanks for that guys. went out and warmed it up earlier. rad is stone cold top to bottom. stat must be stuck. will change it asap and go from there.

externally the rad looks good, much newer than the truck infact. will check for cold spots tomorrow. no i didnt put a stat in and here comes the stupid question... where IS the thermostat on these? i keep reading references to the top hose mounting to the manifold area, and there isnt one there. but then i see references to this pic and i have no idea where that would be or even if it exists....

spoke too soon. was fine driving around town and short runs on a roads but as soon as i get on a dual carriageway.... up the gauge goes. could it be the water pump?

any pics or vids?

looks just like the plug in the gearbox on my disco.... just before it lunched the syncro in 2nd...

fyi, white spirit is the best solvent for duct tape adhesive.

thanks for the assist, all.

its now working properly. temp gauge 1/2 way up and no sign of it pressurising the cooling system. happy days.

well i think ive sorted it. it would not bleed. someone has already taken the thermostat out, so i pulled the top hose off at the rad end and poured coolant down it until full. re attached, then res cap off, top up, run for 20mins @2k rpm, and then went for a drive. temp gauge 1/2 way up. i is happy

not gonna be the liners or h/g. just done them...

no idea. just turned the key and it started.... maybe it was flooded...

got it going now.

Success! went down the workshop. turned key and away she went. but its getting rather warm. just before the red. and coolant boiling in the header tank. so could y'all help me with the correct way to bleed the cooling system and the most common reason for overheating? ta.