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We agree with Marc. We have used roadbooks from Vibraction a few times in 2003 and 2012. The first time with our daughters age 9 and 11, and the second time with some Dutch friends. Very good and easy to follow. Very recommendable. Inge & Lars

Hi For dismantling I use something as simple as a solution of 50% acetone and 50% ATF Dexron III. Just remember to shake it before use as it seperate. Can't remember where I read about it but it works and penetrate well. Lars

Hi If I understand you right, the slack is in the splines between the shaft and the drivemember. Remember to grease them well, as the TD5 is known to lack of lubrication. When you take the dust cap of, you will often see them red from rust. They are “undergreased” from the factory. They should last longer. I have changed ours once and it has done some 440000 km now. Regards Lars

Hi We drive about 25000+ miles a year in the 110 TD5 year 2000. It has now done some 270000 miles Lars

Hi We drive about 25000+ miles a year in the 110 TD5 year 2000. It has now done some 270000 miles Lars

Hi Isn't the a limit about how big a tank for compressed air you must have onboard a car. Lars

Hi Just make sure that the eye bolts etc. are up to the job. The ones you get in DIY shops often are not. I have rejected cars at scrutinering due to this. Lars

That seem to be the rule. Often fighting with the same stupid thing for a long time. Give up, Go in for a cup of tea, Go out and everything fits straight in first time - beats me why...... Lars

Not saying that the hook you mention is no good. It is just my experience, that the release mechanism often will be filled with soil/dirt, which you have to remove before you can release the safety catch. And with big gloves, in the mud, rain and snow, and what else mother nature through at us, against the clock, that is a pain in the a.. At least that is the problem for me in the events I am participating in. Lars

Hi That is very true. But often the release mechanism will get clogged up with dirt, which make it almost impossible to release. I have used this type http: http://www.harbo.dk/...3_Lastkroge.pdf for the last 20+ years and never have one opened accidently. Lars

What is RRDDLW ???? I think I have an idea, but not sure. Lars

Hi Søren That is very true. But as I remember, you have said earlier that you (or Rasmus) are not going to make them anymore, whereas the other winches mentioned here come straight off the shelf. See you soon Lars

Hi Not sure what you mean. It is a PTO driven winch, mounted just above the rear axle. Can pull forwards and rearwards. Lars

Must agree with Daan, though I use steelwire. Have been using PTO Koenig winches since 1992, and now have a 9:1 like Daans. Diff is 4,75:1 Here is a video of my 19 year old daughter winching up in 1.gear. Have tried 2. gear and that is fast, but will need more anchor. We allways driveassist for the same reasons as Daan, that you don't put too much stress at the winchcable and the winch itself. https://plus.google.com/photos/111388938395217619086/albums/5645611160277007537/5645678293738944210?banner=pwa&gpsrc=pwrd1#photos/111388938395217619086/albums/5645611160277007537/5645678293738944210?banner=pwa&gpsrc=pwrd1 Hope this works Lars

Hi Rasmus Then you are ready to come and participate in the next Dansk Offroad Sport event on april the 21st and 22nd. Looking forward to see you and the winch in action. I missed it last weekend as we were only the on saturday. What type of anchor are you using? Sif (my daughter at 17) and I came in second - not bad at all, but as you know, she was very tired. 18 kg of groundanchor takes its toll. (Our nice and light alu groundanchor was broken) Best regards Lars

Repair and keep. You know what you have, don't what you get. If you buy at second hand car - you buy another persons problem !!! Regards Lars

Hi Andy Thanks for yor reply. That is what have been done to my tires as well. But I just got the idea of making a small groove in the bloks it self to drain water. Looking at other M/T (mine are Yokomama G001) and I can see that it looks like there are small grooves in the new BFG M/T KM2 and Kumho KL71. So it must have a purpose, or not....... Regards Lars

Hi I have been driving on siped tires for the last 8 year or so, and will not have tires unless they have been siped. And that goes for both A/T and M/T. I now got my own siping tool, and along with it came a narrow growing-blade less than 0,8 mm (1/32 inch) wide. The siping-blade will not remove any rubber, but the grooving-blade will of cause remove 1/32 inch of the rubber, something like on winter tires. The question is now, does anybody have any idea if, it is a good idea to use the grooving-blade instead of, or in a combination with the siping blade, or just the siping-blade alone on M/T tires. I know that I will not get a prober snow tire, which is the reason I am using real snow tire during the winter. Assisting the Danish equivalent to the AA or RAC in the wintertime, recovering vehicle driving on summer tires or “all-year”tires I know that prober snow tires are the only thing that works during winter. Lars

How can you trust people who clams to be able to forecast the weather the next 10, 30 days og 50 years for that matter (global warming), if they can not make a correct forecast for the next 3 days.......... Lars

Hi Westy First of all what type of PTO do you have, as there are more than Superwinch on the market. And there are different types of Superwinch as well. Send me a mail and I will send you a PDF of a different type of PTO than John referred to. (Maybe I could do it here but I don't know how!!!!) But I would go for a strip down to see if you might have damaged something else. Normally they are not too bad to take apart. Best Regards Lars www.koenigwinches.dk lars@koenigwinches.dk

Hi Matej I have installed a Koenig PTO Winch on the front of a 90 TD5. I can be done. Please send a PM and I can send som pictures of the installation and so on. Best regards Lars

Hi Just make sure to change the oil in the overdrive for every 10000 km (6000 miles), and use automatic gearbox oil. Do not pay antention to the manual as I believe it says oilchange for every 55000 km. We are very pleased with ours in the 110 TD5 STW which have don some 265000 km, and I believe the overdrive has done well over 175000 km now.......and yes I change the oil for every 10000km. best regards Lars

Hi Thanks for the inputs everyone. I will drill smaller holes in the bottom and a larger in the rear crossmember. Well I am not using Waxoil (it was just the only brand I could remember from my time in the UK), but I use a product called PAVA (don't know if you can get it in the UK) and have used for many years, and it works. Thanks again Lars

Hej I need some advice Doing quite a lot of offroading means that the chassis is filled with dirt, mud, grass etc. which I find quite difficult to get out again. Its a 90 td5. I would like to clear it out so I can Waxoil the chassis inside. Cars ar VERY expencive i Denmark . I don't seen to be able to find any topics about this, or I have not been lucky....... The old 109 had some nice holes in the back of the crossmenber, where you could get a hose in and clean most of it out. As it was galvanised it was ok to get most of it out. This seem not to be the case with the 90. I was thinking of drilling some 40mm holes in the lowest points of the chassis and in the rear crossmember so I can hose it out. Any other ideas? What have you done? Regards Lars

Hi Skid I am afraid that BogMonster is right A danish bloke wrote this on the Danish Land Rover Clubs forum (www.dlrk.dk) For those of you who don't understand Danish a short translations is further down. "Discovery II TD5 ES, 1999, ca 223.000 km Nogle måneder siden opdagede jeg at motorolien indholdt en masse dieselolie. Jeg skrev et indlæg om det dengang og fik en masse respons med mulige løsningsforslag. Dette indslag, for at berette hvordan problemet blev løst: Skift af 'fuelpressure-regulator' er ingen løsning. Hvis denne regulator lækker diesel, er det udvendigt på motoren. Da skift af diverse pakninger omkring pumpedyserne mv. ikke hjalp, bestilte vi et brugt topstykke hos CWS4x4 i England. Udmærket service, dog havde de ikke så meget held i at sende pakken til Fredensborg, når de nu mener Fredensborg ligger et sted i Norge. Via pakkecentraler i Bergen og Göteborg, kom herligheden nogle uger forsinket til Kastrup. Et helt topstykke, inklusive pumpedyserne til omkring Bp 580, inkl. fragt og VAT. Så er der enda 90 dages garanti. Topstykket er fra 2003 og skulle efter sigende være 'nice and low milage'. Dyserne blev skiftet først. Det er en forholdsvis enkel operation. Det kunne være det var dem der var noget galt med. Men desværre; stadig diesel i motorolien efter nogle få hundrede km. Så måtte hele topstykket skiftes. Det blev gjort. Problemet er løst. Hvor kom dieselen så fra? Der er ikke noget at se på det gamle topstykke! Fra nogle fora fra England, har jeg læst en del om røntgenfotografi (?) af topstykker. Måske skal der det til, for at se en evt. revne? Dieselolien pumpes frem (under lavtryk) fra en opvarmningscylinder til en kanal i selve topstykket til pumpedyserne. Utætheden må være der et sted... Nu har jeg så en pose leftovers (alverdens smådele) fra topstykkeskiftet. Også fine og velfungerende dyser og en udmærket dyse-aksel. Gad vide om de er noget værd..." To make a long story short, change of 'fuelpressure-regulator' did not help as this leaks on the outside of the engine. Change of gaskets and so on, no good either. He did buy a 2'nd hand cyl-head and this did the job. They could not se any faults on the head. Maybe the cracks are so small that you need some sort of X-ray of the cyl-head to find the cracks. Lars