Jon W

Second that about Llama 4x4 you could get complete hose kit made up to save any faffing with a flaring tool. something like this https://llama4x4.com/product/land-rover-extra-long-braid-front-brake-hoses-1-65m-to-run-up-the-radius-arms/. I have got his rear axle kit to fit Also you can swap the fitting on the front callipers to a banjo fitting on the flexi pipe, which then does away with the small copper pipe on to of the swivel housing making changing wheel bearings and swivels easier as the calliper just lifts out the way. There is a thread on here somewhere about it. An expensive way of doing it but Pioneer do full brake hose kits but i think are more pricey than llama. https://www.pioneer4x4.com/products/full-brake-line-kits/land-rover/defender-90-land-rover/ If you are likely to be doing more then buy a good flare kit as i have used cheap and they are infuriating. I borrowed a mates proper kit and it was lovely and easy to use mounted in a vice. Gwyn lewis has a good way of making brkae pipes nice and neat I wish i had seen it before rebuilding my 90 https://www.facebook.com/watch/?v=1575241232635104 Jon

Well this thread is all a bit of doom and gloom take your chins out of your pints and cheer up a bit. I am a member of glass and use trailwise 2 and find it very useful and it does make route planning a lot easier and saves having to back out of lanes which end up too narrow. Yes if you get to a lane and it is a lot muddier or you are likely to do damage I will turn around. I don't use the glass forum but tend to find a lot more happens on the local Glass facebook groups, i have met up with random strangers and shown them the ropes and the responsible way to lane and have made some good friends from doing so. Unfortunately there are always people who will give the rest of us a bad name, tearing up tracks and hitting things at speed to spray mud everywhere (there is currently a new youtube channel which is doing this unfortunately) but that is where Glass are there to help by liaising with land owners and offering help to councils and funding for repair projects. In my area Lauren the local rep does loads of good work in keeping the peace and maintaining the lanes. So all is not lost. Granted there are some areas which attract the mud pluggers more than others such as Salisbury plain I recently travelled from south to north wales over 4 days by as many lanes as possible in mid summer and other than the honey pot lanes such as strata hardly saw another user. I am fortunate I live in wales and a lot of our lanes are hard based so stand up well to the weather. Also laned around the peaks and lake in recent year and found lot of well maintained tracks with hard bases which are ok to use all year round. Have also found a lot of lesser trodden tracks which have grass has grown over inbetween users which is always a nice sign. So cheer up, get out there and enjoy yourselves, our hobby may not be around for ever so may as well make the most of it while you can. A not so doom and gloomy Jon

I would recommend it, it does make exploring easier and saves a lot of turning back as you avoid lanes which are to narrow for 4x4 or are blocked. Also more up to date info on tro and vro. it has definitely made plotting trips easier for me as can read comments and see if it is likely to be suitable or if it needs walking 1st

£20k is a lot of anyone’s money. I am not saying it isn’t worth it but a few things to think about. what are you using it for? is it a daily car? do you have a budget for repairs and maintenance? Drive a few 1st, I would probably go for a Td5 as a bit more refined and quiet. Nothing wrong with a tdi, I have one myself but they are more agricultural. you are doing the right thing looking at galv chassis and if you can galv bulkhead as it will save a lot of work in the future I’m sure there are some willing volunteers to come and have a look at any potential candidate and give you some tips in exchange for a beer or beer tokens good luck with the search

There is a nice 6x6 Pinz for sale on marketplace £9.5K https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/261411329219454/

Just caught up with this. You say you have 1.3bar but this is measured at the turbo, You need to measure it at the intake plenum as then you will know if you have a leak at the intercooler or any of the piping. It does sound like timing to me. I have fiddled with mine and as you say smooth quiet running is retarded and noisy knocking is too far advanced. I set mine up in the end with a DTI gauge. There is info on the fouby tdi performance page on facebook as to how to do this Hope you find the problem

That good to know, Thank you David, that will be sufficient for me then. Just didn't want to turn up and be turned away at last minute as Scotland is a long way to go. Thanks

I thought the spring on the pedal and spring on the injection pump was likely to be sufficient. Competition is the BAMA mud masters Guessing the squaddies don’t do any extra prep in order to compete the wolfs

I am entering a competition at the end of the month and the rules require a 2nd throttle return spring. Any advice on how to do this on a 200tdi?? and what type of spring to use? Thanks Jon

I am pleased there is no test as it saves me money from having to pay to do it. There is no difference between a person who passed before 1997 to a person who passed after 1997. Granted maybe under 21 should maybe be made to have lessons? The stupid thing about the old test is that it really didn't teach you much, other than how to pass a test. My wife did it so she could tow her horse box. I asked about nose weights and towing weights and limts etc and she said nothing of that was covered in the training or the test, so it wasn't really making anyone more aware or safer anyway.

Pay the ferry and my fuel and I will be out in a jiffy with a spare one for you Mo 😉

A friend has just bought one of these and has the vacuum pump issue. I am guessing cutting a diaphragm to size is the best way to go to fix the issue. I think everything dash related is 24volt so not worth removing the big alternator and changing it to 12volt??? Thanks

T washed mine Then Tractol tractor primer and top coat sprayed on Has been very good

They can take a bit of pressure. They make a satisfying noise when the grease squeezes through. The double carden joint can cause issues if it fails as tends to take the transmission out. So worth inspecting carefully. Then depending on the type of use, if off road a lot maybe change joint for some with grease nipples to allow greasing.

A shamelessly stolen picture. No 2 post lift just ask a local farmer for help

I have ended up with 2 tents, a big Kyham quick erect tent which is big enough for me and wife and dog with a large porch area for holidays etc. But have also just got a Caranex to use when it is just me on my own in the land rover. Keep an eye out 2nd hand, I just got one of this forum. Jury is out on whether I would get an awning or not having borrowed one it had some uses but im not fully convinced but if I was to stump up the cash I would get an ARB 2m to fit on the 90 and it extends out futher to 2.5m so I could fit my camp bed in it. Oztent are really good but unfortunately don't pack up small as are over 2m long folded so would have to go on the roof of a short vehicle. A better solution I think is the Darche Awning tent which can attach to an awning or just use it as a large porch area. https://www.trekoverland.com/collections/darche-australian-roof-tents-awnings-and-camping-accessories/products/xtender-2-5-awning-tent-darche-t050801765 but packs down small, there are some you tube videos of putting it up. Bit pricey but most these type of tents seem to be Other options are landie tent but not real room to cook etc Jon

The only thing which differs is the swivel housing number of bolts on some of the very early 10 spline I think. I also have a front axle case sitting here needing a home. Front radius arm brackets a bit bent, but you would be removing those anyway. I am on the look out for a 300tdi era rear axle casing if anyone has one

Rear Tub Braces. Fuel Tank Brackets Suspension Brackets: Spring Seats. Shock Mounts. Spring Retainers Inner Frame of the Bonnet? Power Steering reservoir Holder. Screen wash Bracket Radiator Frame

Nick what make were your 1ton dampers?

If you want to build your own chassis to save yourself some money I know someone who would probably sell you an Ikea style flat pack chassis if you want to stick it all together. He builds chassis so the extend to which it is built would up to you. Let me know if your interested and I will,put you in touch.

I haven't read the whole thread, but if it hasn't been mentioned already. I would probably be easiest to swap to a later 24spline disc braked rear axle. As then you have more choice of shafts/ easier to get hold of. Also benefit of disc brakes which are easier to clean and service after off road use. Jon

I was going to put a set of 1ton shocks on the front of mine as not that keep on the procomps and also the price of them. But mine doesnt actually run properly at the moment so haven't bought any yet

This is a good thread on the different shock length https://www.lrukforums.com/threads/parabolics-and-shocks.244233/

@reb78 what is the situation with your boost pin? How has bob set it do you know? I am not advocating swapping the pin for anyone’s super pins at all as sometimes they need more setting up and spacers yadda yadda or sometimes you end up with no power off boost and loads on. On mine I gave the top torx screw 1 turn clockwise which has given much better pulling away and off boost power. Then turned the factory boost pin so the profile is facing forwards. This made a massive difference and it is so much more drivable. I haven’t played with the max fuel screw as don’t want the smoke.

It can be done in situ but people do struggle with one of the bolts and some recommend a hammer and chisel to get it started moving. The bolts are replace with longer ones anyway. I did it on the bench as had my pump off to change a seal. If you have the timing kit with a pulley holder it doesn’t take very long to take the pump off.