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Jon W

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Everything posted by Jon W

  1. All back together and working again. It was the cause of the problem as it is fine now. Just got to find out which hose is dripping intermittently probably just a clip not seated properly. Here is the idler, previous owner must have used a cheap part as it was plastic whereas the genuine one I replaced it with was metal
  2. Well we had a development today. Drove to work today 12 miles fine. Then drove e slower twisty way home with hills to work the engine at low speeds. The results were a bit of loss of power them the battery light came on! Pulled over quick and switched off. Result being a collapsed idler bearing had thrown the belt off. Took belt off and nursed it home stopping a lot. Then battery went flat so had to get a jump start and got home. Only got into the red once so hopefully all ok. So this could have been my problem maybe if the idler was stiff maybe the fan wasn't being turned as it should be? I am going to replace both idlers and the tensioner while it's apart. The other idler maybe newer anyway as it has had the ace removal tensioner put on. Shall I replace the water pump? Do they wear out? It's not leaking or anything. Just while it is apart I would rather do everything but it is another £65quid. Rad had been getting hot so water was circulating. Aircon rad doesn't look in great health and I have found the electric helper fan is seized so I will change that as well i have found the source of my small water leak, just under the air intake there is 2 small hoses which attach to a plate, this is leaking when hot under high pressure, so need a new gasket or tightening up Just hope all gaskets and heads are ok. Should have stuck with the Td5
  3. Ok I can swap the tank with a spare from a Td5 I have easy enough. Taking the thermostat out isn't possible as they have it in the radiator hose like the Td5 as opposed to in a housing like normal V8s have.
  4. I have had my Thor V8 discovery for a while now and had my 1st problem with it last weekend. Let me set the scene: 2001 127kmiles lpg al l running really nicely. Temp gauge always reads normal ( but have read the normal range is 78-107c so not very helpful) however I have always thought it seem really hot when you open the bonnet after being driven, but have put it down to it being a V8 as they seem to hold a lot more heat in the engine bay than the diesels. Rad is nice and clean, and I have checked the viscous fan previously and it seems to shift a lot of air and will snap a pencil when tested. I was away for the weekend so before I left I checked the oil and coolant on the discovery. Water topped up but only fractionally it seems to use a little to be fair but nothing excessive. Oil topped up too. My wife took her horse out to a competition about 40-50 miles away, got there no problems, on the way home she got about 2 miles into the journey temp gauge into the red and light on. She pulled over as soon as she could where it was safe with the horsebox (I had prewarned her of what to do if such a situation should arise), she hear it bubbling when she turned it off. Opened the bonnet and steam coming from the expansion tank and a lot of water lost. She couldn't tell whether it was a split hose or what so got it recovered to be safe. Since then i have had a good look over it and nothing obvious, I have refilled it with water and bled it through. Taken it out for a good run and given it some work to do. And all seems fine. No oil in the water No water in the oil so could I have not tightened the cap properly? Leading to the water gradually boiling out could the thermostat be faulty and have got stuck closed? Is the water pump failing? When I took it out for a run I was giving it a good hard drive to try and get it really hot but in hindsight it was quite fast road work so good air flow. My thoughts are change the thermostat as it's cheap and easy and possibly the water pump which is a bit more expensive and a bit more work. What are your thoughts? Or should I be looking at a sniff test or compression test? I would have to find someone with the right tools for this. whatever is to be done needs to be done right as it spends the majority of its time towing the donkey around Your thoughts are much appreciated! Thanks
  5. Hi Bish Still a few of us around from when you had the bobtail, I have been dipping into and out of Land Rovers the past few years. Darth Dicky is still about as well and threatening to rebuild the original 90. Although it does seem a lot quieter on here now days.... Rangie looks lovely, now for a set of MTR on it Jon
  6. I know what you mean Cornish rattler, I want some for mine as I haven't got the original ally side sills and want a little bit of protection for the doors and tub, but if the stick out too far it will look silly, as my tyre are just inline with the body work and no extended arches like on a 90. My series isn't a serious off roader so don't need tree bars. To be fair we have had box section type on our 90 for years without the tree bars and with careful driving they have been fine. Take a picture of what you end up with as I will be in the market for some soon thanks jon
  7. Well I have fitted the rad and lower thermostat, runs at about 85c when moving, then 90-95 when slow or stopped. Need to do some slow lanes to see if it really heats up or see if the fan cools it enough. But so far things are looking a lot better/safer thanks Jon
  8. I have put an isolator switch on my series for ease of isolation and also to help with security. Due to lazyness and save having to crimp terminals on or solder etc. I have a correct length lead off a discovery with the following terminal on it. Can anyone tell me why I should use this. It is running all vehicle electrics, starter etc. If a winch was added it would have its own isolator on it
  9. Well I have fitted the lowest temperature intermotor stat for the bottom hose, I am trying to sort the bottom rad hose there is less of a kink in it. Also having the extra port from the top by the carbs to the top of the rad fitted. Which apparently speaking to a few people makes a big difference, but can really work out why. Also having a better core put into my rad for better cooling which if calculated correctly will give 25% more capacity. Will let you know how it goes when it's all back together
  10. Engine stat is a low temp 74c, fan switch is now lower coming in at 84 and off at 79. So that the engine stat stays open, the other option is 82 and off at 68 but this would mean the fan would run and the engine stat would close. have taken the rad out and will get an addditional port fitted. Then try it with the new fan switch, and also test the gauge and things . When the fan dose come on it does cycle on and off so fan is moving the heat Thanks
  11. I already have the standard expansion bottle setup from the series 3 which when pressure builds lets waters into the expansion bottle. so I don't see how the pipe indicated would work by putting that into the overflow pipe, as it will constantly overflow from the system surely as there will be a constant flow as the system is no longer sealed/pressurised.Or have I got the wrong idea about the pipe indicated. i have thought about moving the stat for the fan but have read into it and there is always a mixed opinion about its position. Bottom hose at least shows rad is working and will kick in with a lower temp stat when radiator cooling isn't sufficiently. Top hose is likely to cause the fan to run constantly with hot water running out the top of the engine Thanks Jon
  12. I haven't let it get as far as boiling over, just gets hot on the gauge
  13. Ok will do that then. Have put a lower temp stat in for the fan. Would the system be better with a header tank to increased capacity? Other option is to add a oil cooler to increase the cooling capacity, in theory cooler oil so less pressure on the cooling system? Jon
  14. Just to bring this topic back up again, I have had the engine in and running for the last 9 months, not been too far in it as still sorting bits out as I go as it was a rush to get it road worthy for my Wedding. Now I am sorting through my snag list as I have free weekends. cooling is my main thing. I brought a series heavy duty 4 core rad and fitted that. With a temperature sender in the top hose with matched gauge. Bottom hose I have a x eng fan switch with a 14inch fan on the front of the rad. Now the engine runs fine above 30mph and stays at a good temp, but at slow speed temp soon gets up about 100c with the fan not cutting in until over 100c (fan switch is in the bottom hose on an 88c stat. I have just swapped this to try and get the fan to come in earlier. whilst I am about it I am wondering if I need to get another port soldered onto my rad, as it currently only has top hose and bottom hose. Expansion into overflow from the top rad cap. Should I add a port from the top of the intake manifold by the carbs? Pictures say a 1000 words so I have attached a picture. It is the pipe which is currently close off in the picture that i am concerned about and wondering if this will aid the cooling etc. Also the engine is running rich at the moment which won't help I know but get the cooling sorted before taking it to be tuned up properlY. any thoughts would be appreciated as I don't want to mess up a new rad when I don't need to. Thanks
  15. Looks fantastic I would love to finally get a Land Rover fit enough to do a long trip somewhere that far a field from the uk and enjoy tracks like that. One day, one day....
  16. Yer I know the chassis problems from my last one and this was about the 7th one I viewed, so it will be getting the full treatment when I get chance to clean it all up. I like and have used the built hamber product before. But may try some of the buzz weld external coating
  17. How is it? I love it! My wife loves it which is a blessing and a curse as she keeps pinching it. But so far it seems a good weekend car for us, good for taking the dog out, bikes. Horse box once she buys one. need to fix the drivers window as that doesn't work and the rear wiper but I can pull parts off my old one. Fitted a tow bar at the weekend which involved dropping the rear gas tanks to get the bolts in through the chassis legs. but it wasn't too bad a job, there way enough slack to drop the tank onto the ground. Chassis seems quite solid which is good but I will be giving it a good rub down and coating this summer. V8 and auto is a great combo and can't seem to feel a difference on gas in terms of power. Darth dicky drove it and it wasn't as fast as he thought it would be so maybe the cams are a bit worn but it does what I want and I'm not too fussed about speed as I have a car for that. so this far I am happy with it but have only done about 300miles in it. Want to check a few more things over like gearbox oil condition, I have already changed the diff oil, and the engine oil is like new. probably won't be off roading this one like the last one, maybe a few lanes but I'm conscious of the gas tanks underneath and want to keep its road manners towing, so the lift kit and off road bits have been sold off my old one.So my series might get used for more off road duties, but that needs diffs putting in 1st It's a never ending cycle with land rovers
  18. I would also be careful in Ireland as a friend who lives out there has said they have clamped down on commercial vehicles massively, and he is registered as working in agriculture, but if caught towing his boat (for leisure purposes), he would be fined and made to pay the normal vehicle tax rate apparently, so be careful with what you register as working as
  19. I believe the d1 chassis all lines up except 2 of the body mounts, but then engine mounts etc would need sorting
  20. Welll have sent a deposit to get it taken off eBay, picking it up tomorrow, hopefully it's the right decision!
  21. Water is fine, oil had a tiny bit of white around the oil cap but I think that is a result of not being used much recently and didn't get any worse after a run
  22. I am looking at a 2001 V8 discovery 2 4.0L with 125k miles on it. Not much history but seems to run well. Have head all about gaskets and slipped liners. So without knowing if the gaskets have been done or any other engine work is it likely to be on borrowed time? Or if it hasn't happen yet is it unlikely to happen if it hasn't happened already? Can anything be done to prolong its life? Or is it best to do preventative maintenance and get them change or is it opening a can of worms? Also is on lpg at the end of the day it's a £1600 motor do I just run it until I have problems with it and am I working unesscessarily? vehicle will be doing a bit of towing if this makes many odds? Thanks
  23. Yer the Kia had been looked at as a possibility but I'm not over keen on them but granted it would do the job. jeep Cherokee and grand Cherokee seem cheap but is there a reason to avoid these? Apart from it's a jeep
  24. Sound nice but £2k budget! Outdoor stop most of that. I know a horse box is £4K+ but buying that new, the ifor wiiliams don't really loose any money over a few years really, and most sell for what people originally paid for them 10 years ago
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