Jon W

No one got any words of wisdom? They seem to be w kind of clip but mine are rusted solid. The lever end I can drill out on he work bench but will struggle to access it where it is on the transfer box end

My cable snapped so am in the process of changing it. I have the old one off but can’t get the pins out the end of the cable which attach it to the transfer box end and the lever end. These are rusted and seem an odd configuration. Also can find out any info on replacements or how the are meant to work. Is there a special way they release as mine are stuck fast. Lever is on the bench so access is good. Butntransfer box end will be more difficult to reach which is where the cable snapped in the 1st place thanks Jon

I have the V8 auto D2 and mileage wise on petrol the best I think I had was a motorway run which gave 17-18mpg. On lpg I get 13mpg running around home about 300miles to 100litres. Towing drops to 200mile ish which is about 10mpg. so it isn’t great but that is on an engine which is 130k and had no significant work. Drives lovely though, just a shame the rest of the vehicle needs attention around it

Guessing the spare axle case wasn’t for this one then? Actually you could have taken the front axle case with you as the mounts would be correct for your radius arms???

Have you thought about making your own trailer chassis? Reason I ask is a friend of mine makes fridge trailers by building a chassis and then putting sansburies fridge bodies on them. Could put you in touch, think he does single axle and double axles. Could be a simple starting point Jon

It is as I thought then, most people say to avoid plastic. Interesting mike, what did you buy and how much was it and if buying again, what make would you go for? I May have to bend the credit card and go for the recore and for £40 extra go for the strong HD core Thanks

I need a need a new radiator for a 200tdi. currently an all brass/ copper which is falling apart and is about 10years old. Was a cheap Isa rad at the time. i have had a price to recore it of £235 or £275 for a better spec stronger core in it. Which I would like to do but budget is tight with everything else on the rebuild I am doing. Has anyone had any experience of the aluminium/plastic rads available which are around £100. Are they any good? A friend had one but he didn’t rate it much after the oil cooler split and caused mixing of oil and coolant. All aluminium rad there are some on eBay for about £185 has anyone had any experience of these. I know you get what you pay for but I can’t stretch to allisport prices. Thanks Jon

Seems to be put together ok but I will check. If not there is a non abs puma servo and master on eBay for £60 would that work? Thanks

During my rebuild I want to change the servo and master cylinder on the 90. The original I think is from when the vehicle was a 2.5petrol and the brakes have always been hard to press. They will lock up if you give them a hard jab. Rear disc axle. But it always feels like hard work. It has 110 calipers and vented discs on the front. Servo seemed to work as pedal dropped on starting the vehicle. so to improve it i have the following parts which were given to me But can’t get them to match up or make sense. lucas master cylinder 74471201 Lucas servo sjb101650 Problem is the master cylinder when bolted on is at a funny angle. Rotate to servo to othe bolt holes and it still doesn’t work. So do I just redrill the pedal box so the servo can be mounted with the reservoir level? pictures speak a thousand words Thanks

After some help. Putting the tank back in my 90 and struggling to find a picture of how the mounting rubbers go. The parts diagram shows the washers and the rubbers but not what goes which side of the tank and bracket. Do the rubbers go against the mount and tank 1 each side with washers or without Thanks

Coopers were ok. Mine were a little worn so a bit hard to compare with BFG. But I don't think they are as good as BFG, mine may have been a bit old but they just seemed rather hard and didn't seem to grip into things more just polish the surface. Don't think that have as much sidewall grip for getting out of ruts. But I was seriously impressed with the discoverys traction control with the centre diff locked. It would just climb where a 90 would get cross axled. I was more just showing the alloys to give an idea of offset and tyre clearance. The above wheel were chosen by the previous owner over the alloys it had initially as those wheel cover and protect the wheel nuts well. Modulars may look a bit more off roady if that is the look you are going for with the offset. But you may have to sort wheel arches then. Maxxis could be worth a shot

I have just stripped and repaired one bulkhead which is currently at the galvanisers and will be going on my rebuild. The original bulkhead which came off my 90 has been shot blasted and needs 2 footwells and 2 top corners. If I get it repaired and then galvanised what does everyone think itwould be worth to sell compared with one of the shielded items. Just wondering if I can be bothered to do some of the work and running around and also justify spending out on getting all the work done. The ideal would be to be able to make some money back to pay for my recent bulkhead. As if there isn’t likely to be much money in it I will just sell it as a shot blasted bulkhead but again it’s hard to put a price on. Thanks jon

My D2 had that size cooper stt on standard alloys with a britpart 2inch lift and was impressed how well it rode and drove. It had a steel bumper so no rubbing issues. Think they tend to rub the plastic front bumpers or need a slight trim

Just bringing this thread back up. What size/diameter tube have people used. I’m not near my loom so can’t measure it Thanks

Sorry for thread hi-jack @scotts90 Currently I have a power flow stainless custom system on it from a Steve Parker downpipe 200tdi disco conversion. 300 would fit, but the Td5 has a silencer in it? Which would be good for me. The middle section isn’t standard anyway so I could have a 3 bolt flange put on it but it might end up a a bit of a cobble together. So I may put a complete 300 or Td5 system on it as can chop the front pipe and slide onto it. Then can sell the previous system rather than butcher it Thanks

I need to look into this as have just put a td5 style tank on mine. Would a td5 rear box fit also?

I have attacked most of it with the Grinder to get it off, good idea about the blow torch, I will get some more gas for mine as really it is only the corners above the footwells which need a bit more attention. will drill a few more holes also Once galved I will t wash. Then what paint have people used for a good finish? I am guessing high build primer of some sort to smooth it off a bit? Then was going to go 2 pack

I have a 2001 D2 which I love driving but usually find a pain in the arse to work on, everything seem a bit crusty and bolts are a pain to undo compared with my older defender and series. But maybe that is just me. If it was on a new chassis then maybe it wouldn’t be so bad as wouldn’t be showered in rust flakes and under seal. shielder are now making chassis’s for them as Richards always seem way over priced. So it could be worth looking at? A year ago or so the chap who has discovery2.co.uk was selling his discovery which I was very tempted by as it was already on a galv chassis and well looked after. Can’t remember if it was up for £6-8k. I was very tempted but didnt have the funds at the time and was trying to decide what vehicle I needed for towing/off road hack etc and whether 1 vehicle would do both. Maybe worth contacting him to see if it sold. Disco 3 my father in law has is a nice truck. Doesn’t feel very lively but you look down at the speedo and you a going fairly quick without realising. Problems he has had: seized handbrake, egr valve, wheel bearing/cv. Manual is ok, but I would prefer the D4 auto So, longevity re chassis yours. If you don’t like the auto then chip it and a HD torque converter. Love the auto in my V8, but not sure I would in a Td5. £10k you could do a lot with it. D2 could be fitted out for sleeping in but removing rear seats will free up a lot of room Touring the D3/4 would be more spacious with it being very transit shaped

Dragging an old thread up. I am prepping my bulkhead for galv. Had it shy blasted and welded up. But what does everyone do about seam sealer as mine has a lot on it. It will be a pain to scrape it all off. Will the acid dip get rid of all of this? I hope it is as it will save me a big job. Also if any other holes need to be drilled where have people drilled them etc. thanks

Tdi project worth more than what has been said above. £1000-£2500 possibly depending on condition

Your a bad influence also, as when is time to get rid of my disco I am now tempted to keep the engine!

Just for your info, My D2 is probably what you call throaty to begin with at start up. All standard exhaust, but on start up the viscous fan will run for a bit making a bit of a roar and then it settles when the idle settles down. Also if parked by the house the exhaust can reverb quite a bit

Having just swapped your chassis, it would have been easier to have ordered a V8 chassis to avoid playing with engine mounts. But it’s nothing a welder couldn’t sort. Love the Thor V8 in my disco, and it works well with the disco auto box but a tad thirsty

Bringing this back up, I am just about to buy some now bolts for my galv chassis swap and have got some stainless bolts for the seatbox and floor plates. A lot of the chassis bolts I have been surprised how good they are for 27years old. So am I best going for zinc plated nuts and bolts on the chassis fixings? I was going to copper slip them all anyway. And is it just where aluminium comes into contact that I need to apply the special paste? Thanks Jon

It is a fantastic event, we went a couple of years back and were amazed at how open the event is with access to all the pits and the pit lane you can stand right on it, health and safety hasn't caught up with it thankfully. Literally could stand next to pit crews as they were tinkering pre race. Loved the classic mini's hooning around having a great time amongst the other classic e types americal muscle and all sorts