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Cluaran

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About Cluaran

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  1. Hello Gentlemen! Thanks for the additional suggestions. I particularly appreciate your tip and encouraging words cackshifter (What a great name too!! ) and your understanding, Junglie - great idea with the Caustic soda! Temperatures here have hovered around -5 C the past few days with spells of wettish snow and very hard freezing, so I am only just today (-3C but sunny and dry) able to start again on the task. Landroversforever requested some pics showing setup and location - so I'm attaching some here... taken , I add, a few days before the snow came. Both protruding studs were s
  2. Pete and Bowie: see, these are tricks I've definitely missed. Pre-heating before welding and a non-weldable shield! Brilliant ideas! Of course they make sense. I will definitely do this! Many thanks again. And happy Hogmanay when it comes gentlemen! 👌
  3. These are really great straightforward ideas, lads, well worth trying. Thank you! On the heat front - the induction heater would be great to try, but currently out of my budget and waiting for it - or components suggested by Soutie and commented on by David - to arrive would be too much of a delay. I've really got to get a move on now. Ballcock: I'm not sure if an arc welder (I assume you mean using sticks) would make much difference; I haven't got one and I've seen many migs used with success on youtube (albeit welding downwards!). Fridge Feezer: thanks for mentioning the left-hand drill
  4. Yes, that's why I would love to avoid this if at all possible... not least because I'd be doing it on my back on very cold gravel! 😱 I'm hoping that repeatedly welding nuts or stubby bolts onto the sheared ends plus somehow belting heat into them will break the corrosion and let me waggle them out. So far, however, I keep tearing these off with no movement from the stuck bolts. But as landroversforever commented above, I may need to longer bursts of weld to get both heat and penetration... which is my next move when the danger of frostbite or electrocution passes! Also, I'm going to try
  5. Hi Vulcan Bomber, In theory the component - which is a kind of plate beneath the engine - could be removed, but realistically not unless the vehicle was high up on ramps in a workshop (luxury!) rather than on axle stands on gravel. Recovery to a workshop will be the very last option, I hope. I don't know if there is any kind of portable drilling jig to ensure accurate drilling out in tight spots. So I suppose if hand drilling is the only option, cobalt drill bits and even more patience will be needed. 🤞
  6. Thanks to both Bowie and landroversforever. The youtube video you've shared Bowie is the one I mentioned I hadn't tried - attaching a good battery via jump leads to the bolt (positive) and body. In the video the bolts appear to get red hot and break the corrosion. I wonder if you or anyone else had actually tried that method: a hell of a lot cheaper than an induction heater gun! And yes, landroversforever, I think you must have a point. I've been a bit wary about welding directly upwards. I've got the welder running pretty hot and the wire feed quite fast to try and push the wire up to wh
  7. Thank you Pete. Yes, I think it's time I invested in some decent cobalt drills for sure... and probably a helicoil set too... if only to prepare for a possible endgame. I'd like to try to avoid that if at all possible though, but the options do appear to be narrowing greatly. This is such a common problem it's an infuriating design issue I fail to understand, just as I fail to understand why induction heater guns should be so ridiculously expensive when by all accounts they do seem to offer a pretty good way out. Thanks for your thoughts.
  8. Thank you for that idea David which is worth considering. The problem I envisage is that the actual bolts are below surface (currently with welding blobs suspended like stalactites) and just 10mm diameter; I've used a 4mm drill so far (not always perfectly centred) so any new screws would seem rather flimsy. As it is, when using bolt extractors (a bit like smaller screws) there is no movement and I reach a point where I'm concerned that they might snap. Although the idea of using the new screws to get deeper heat penetration might offer a window. I did see one youtuber weld on a bolt in prefe
  9. Hello Gents, And merry lockdown season's greetings! This is a long shot - and I apologise to admins if out of place - but probably relevant to tackling similar tasks on our Defenders and a challenge I'm sure others have faced. Whilst in the process of rebuilding my 1999 TD5, a regular vehicle check on the family 2011 Passat required the replacement of its front suspension lower arm bushes which VW call 'console bushes'. It seemed a simple enough task (for which VW wanted to charge nearly £400!) - three bolts each side (1 x 18mm head and 2 x 16mm head) through an aluminium bush bra
  10. Wow! Absolutely fantastically quick response Bowie. Brilliant. Thanks very much! The gravel awaits!...
  11. Hello Gents! I'm poised to hit the gravel and hoist my Salisbury axle back into position on my 1999 TD5 110 hard top, but have a nagging doubt about the brackets which retain the shock absorbers. During refurbishment, these brackets contained small metal 'cups' which were so corroded I chiselled them off. I'm sure I've seen replacement brackets without such cups; couldn't seem to find anywhere selling them for welding on to the bracket, and so believe them to be basiccally unnecessary. Before I go through the agonies of the gravel, can anyone reassure me that I'm right... or tell me if I
  12. Thank you gents! That all sounds reassuring so I'll go with that. All I have to do now is lie down on the cold wet gravel of my drive with my trolley jack and hoist and jiggle the axle into position..
  13. Hello Gentlemen! Whilst rebuilding my Salisbury axle on my TD5 110 hard top, the upper link old ball joint looked worse for wear with its split gaiter. So - never having done this before - I decided to replace it and have now pressed a new one into its bracket using the (very solid and helpful) tool I got off ebay. It is properly aligned with the bolt holes and I've since pumped it with grease. Having done so, however, I am not sure how much - if any - articulation/swivelling movement there is supposed to be. It is rigid and I can't move it by hand. Trouble is I can't remember if I could
  14. 'Evening Gents! Just a quick update to give hope to anyone else who may have come a cropper with their pinion threads and nut. Here are the steps I took: 1. Ordered a new pinion nut from the ex Mod supplier suggested by Western. Brilliant! Ordered one afternoon, arrived next morning... and I live a long way away! 2. Wire wheel on my grinder to remove as much (knackered nut thread) debris from the pinion threads as possible. This made a noticeable difference to the thread but I was still unable to wind on the new nut which would still not 'catch' because of the state of the threa
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