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I have a hotwire ecu with a rpi tornado chip fuelled for a 4.6 so that would be a simple way and cheaper option for you. make a offer on the ecu, I might even have a hot wire loom too if your stuck for one. AL

get a mount from a engine that had the alternator on the other side as standard. it will bolt up and you have the perfect mount then .

blacksheep crossmember?

Shocked that V8 plugs have come second to diesel.... you should be ashamed!!!!!! Awaiting V8 plugs

as bowie said to be honest. you could "upgrade" to vent 110 stuff (front) but as you trial it you might just fill them full of mud and then they'll be point less. no point going drilled and grooved as your playing in the mud you'll destroy pads. As bowie said a fully operational set up will be more than good enough, so just replace like for like all round, make sure servo is 100% and it'll stop very very well. If you go the 110 route, I wouldn't put 110 callipers on the rear. they brake a bit too well and make the back up lock up a too early.

i did this about 8 years ago, I'm a bit unsure exactly what we used as it was alittle while ago, but it was the lt77 to the v8 in the car, I'm 99% sure we used a 200tdi bell housing as it fits the lt77 and the 300tdi, then ground down a spigot bush to fit inside the 300tdi one to fit the v8lt77. SO List of parts bell housing (I think from a 200tdi disco spigot bushes to make something work, 300tdi and v8 on I made work, clutch kit engine mounts for the 300tdi, we used all the radiator / intercooler etc from the 300tdi. did it all in 10 hours and then had a competition the next day with no faults (lucky)

Did this get resolved? I'm too having the exact same issue, mines been installed for 4 - 5 years with no real problems.

Congrats and keep going Nige.

cheers guys, Will have a play.

Hello, Good to see/ hear from you. Great Pic! you should come over and we do that again! The truck will be fine! I just havent used it for a while. so never been a problem in the past so a good run on the road and she'll be rite. or i just though the 4.2 in or to be very naughty i have a OM606 engine...... be a shame to "bin" the megasquirt and the V8.... I just need to finish her and get it used! even if that means red lining her more often (joke) Speak soon

Hello all. Cut a bit of along story short, havent used the truck for 6months, (under going a bit of a change of use rebuild) 3.9 / auto on MS. Been used for 4 years or so and 3 years on MS never really touched it since i got it going like a scolded cat of a red hot tin roof (or a similar known saying) its been upside down more times than i care to remember, Boiled far too many times in comp use and still runs as sweet as a sweet thing. But the last couple of times i have tried to fire up because quite honestly its more fun listening to the v8 than boring rebuilding stuff and making good, i notice its near impossible now to start unless you take all the plugs out heat them up and then it fires up fine. (try new plugs i hear you say - yes i will and thats not my main concern at the mo) Ok get her running again runs beautifully. but looking at the pretty gauges on MS it looks like shes (on idle) getting very rich, hold her in the high revs ort bounce of rev limiter for a few seconds (rough i know but to be honest i have a 4.2 sat in the garage but i'm refusing to change it till this 3.9 dies) and the air to fuel ratio drops back to around 14. Attached is log file and map. like i say it goes very well idles great (for what i want it too for a auto and for what i do with it challenge truck etc) but why is it getting very rich at idle, is it normal? Like i say i havent really touched in a couple of years (if it aint broke not try and fix it attitude) I will be moving the truck away from serious challenge events now, it was a tray back now a full bodied hardtop again so a change to a more economical running V8 would be best so any tips on my set up please feel free to throw them at me. Cheers in advance. Al rich.xls 2015-04-25_10.56.21.msq

yes regarding actuator and ideally a sump off a later 320 cdi + oil pump this will give clearance for the front axle / diff if your putting the engine roughly in the same place as original.

I believe he is going to do a kit for a manual but not yet.

definitely coming from sunroof and not the top of the windscreen? had this a few times.

so what if it distorts a little you can soon get it back into shape when it comes to bolting up, plus there is a country mile in tolerance in land rovers so having it perfectly true will be as much hassle as fitting a crash damaged item.. (slight jest) Little less conversations and a little more action - (ment in good humour) Done a few never had a issue.

delaminated / delaminating intercooler hoses.

I have a hot wire ecu with tornado chip in, all fuelled for 4.6 going fairly cheap if that helps you pm me

No better HD clutch than here http://www.megasquirt-v8.co.uk/diff_offroad.php about 1/4 way down the page

hmmm I had similar on my fathers RR. but unsure if the same as your fault to be honest. but for 5 minutes work might be worth a try, He had the box losing drive and would flash up with gearbox fault and would have to pull stop go back into P and then back into gear. Land rover and many other garages including specialist wrote the gearbox off and said similar cost to what your being threatened with. I couldn't / wouldn't believe it/ So basically on the gear box is the sector cable and have a union on it which is ment to pivot, but over time it doesn't. and then causes a slight miss reading for the gear selector in box for a £10 part but I found that marking its location and then removing cleaning, re-greasing and reinstalling proved that the box is 100% and then replaced the pivot with a new part. but to be honest he clean/ re-grease part would of been fine. lay under vehicle and you'll see if looks I do accept your fault is a little different so might not be applicable to you but cannot harm and if anyone else if searching RR gearbox fault then might help them Good luck.

does it ever lose drive? and putting it back in to park and then D again work ok? or N and back to drive?

the lower you go the cooler the air out of the heater will be. the hotter the stat rating the hotter the heater will be. A new stat might help (as old stats can sometimes not close or open fully. so a genuine new stat might help... but only other real option is a rad muff or just put a plastic sheet infront of say half the rad in these cold spells to help it warm up / keep warm

VR1 no better oil for the old V8..

just re-read the above and you don't want to cut the chassis, I think that limits you to the 200 with a steve parker conversion kit

200 will take more abuse but personally prefer the slightly more modern bits on the 300, like serp belt and tensioner, personally find it slightly quieter / refined. but really there aint a lot init, you get your good and bad of both versions!

I have a hot wire ecu with tornado chip programed for the 4.6 if anyone needs one, I no longer need it as I've gone megasquirt.