iomlt

buy one without sunroofs! windscreens on majority let water in too. The sunroof is fixable but I know if I bought another I just wouldn't buy one with sunroofs. especially as they have aircon anyways!!! bar that and as mentioned above check middle to rear chassis. passenger side bonnet mount in shuttle panel. make sure all door locks work as there expensive to replace. Things that usually let got around 100k mark, steering pumps, clutch / dual mass fly wheel and ball joints are the £££ jobs to have done, so if there done then you should have some happy motoring Just my thoughts.

Just call Gwyn Lewis, I have never had any problems with custom props from Gwyn.

Come to the Isle of Man we have a great challenge scene that seems to work well for the serious and the not so serious side of things. Feel free to pm for details. It's worth the trip. Next one is June and entry fee is only 20 pounds.

I cannot rate VR1 highly enough... you can treat the V8 Soooo rough on this stuff and it protects....

Dont go with britpart. at the very least I would go with Terrafirma. They are not much more.

My daily drive Genuine bushes full hit. I usually swear by ome all out. But I have tried Terrafirma springs plus 2 heavy rate and ome pls 2" shocks. I usually hate the ride of a disco but I'm very pleased with my commercial. I tow 3 ton plus car trailers, tow my boat, green Lane alot the odd play site and drive 100mph plus on the Isle of Man regularly go to the UK in her and the ride is excellent. I have tried Terrafirma steering dampener lasted one week and bought ome one instead I found the Terrafirma one far too heavy. OME on perfect. 1996 disco commerical 1"body lift 285/75/16s bfgoodrich at's on mach 5's 200tdi tweaked OME plus 2" shocks old stock Terrafirma hd plus 2" springs Winch hd bumper up front HD rear bumper Spring retainers relocates all from gwyn lewis 4x4

agree with the above.

low stat, keep viscous fan! cheap and simple

Good thinking on the 'trap'.

Ok. After spending a fair few hours on her today (only chance i have had due to the weather) this is what i did. Removed tank guard dropped a couple of litres of fuel and no water ingress. Removed In-tank Pump check gauze etc, been meaning to change the pump for a while so did that. Replaced In-likn Fuel Filter. Test No change. Checked all connectors for any sign of water ingress / contamination. all very clean and dry. Checked timing. noticed it was around 1 or 2 degree off but to me it wouldn't cause this fault. and a couple of cups of tea and food, sat in the cab starting it up listening and watching laptop, i noticed the spark was doing anything on the gauge. so loaded a old map and seem to solve this i had the spark map moving again.. but still no better. Then spotted the MAP kpa gauge not acting the way i would expect. Then the Pound droppped! With me laid on the drives side for a little while, i would expect oil to sit at the top of the engine or get into the plenum chamber, It dawned on me that my MAP kpa pick up is on the side of the plenum chamber (drivers side) and NOT T'd on the fuel regulator pipe. so Hmmmm i wounder if oil got in that hose? Removed plenum chamber there is trace of oil there not as much as i'd expect but evidence of oil, So tried to blow down the pipe but not much joy, Pulled pipe out and sat in a bucket of hot water and then put the airline down it! PPPPPPUFFFFFFFFFFFFFF good chunk of oil and clear as a whistle, Put back on and built up the top of the engine again. Turned the Key, fired up...... then died... tried again... died. ok what have i forgotten. Reinspected engine and everything i did. Loaded a a map i know is good. again same result. check for air leaks / missed pipes, re calibrated throttle position. still start rev a little then die..... ARGH GOD DAM! So.... held it of the revs fairly high for a bit looking at gauges etc all looks good now.. then dies.... Ok starting to think hmmmm maybe isnt that must be something else ... Go inside for another cup of tea, slice of cake this time... right getting dark, start it again and PERFECT! give it a handful and ????????? PERFECT!!!! Turn off. start up and Perfect. FIXED!

As you can hear on the video i was very ambitious booting her trying to get her to stay on all fours.... but the hole was just too deep..... hahaha

This is next on the to do list, drop fuel, look in tank, replace filter and replace. fuel. cheers folks!

everything is dry bar my seat and Arse. All electric connectors were Vaseline'd prior to event. but i have check and checked again. OIl light goes out quickly and engine is sweet and smooth when running... - but wil check with proper pressure oil checker jobby. plugs - is there any other plug always use them new ones at the ready Also magnecor leads all perfect and dry. Plugs cleaned up and to be honest were not very "dirty" but i have a new set so daft not to try...... Vr sensors looks good, timing about where it should be. Lambda removal. as you know i use the truck for a number of things and a fair amount of road mile IOM is tiny so if i took it in and out all the time i'd be fit a fiddle having to get under and back out half a dozen times a week! but you are right.... as always. but but but but but...... ok i will all i do is set something to 0% as mentioned further up! see i listened! Fuel tank. that's a job to do in daylight (weekend then) will double check anything suspect i'll rig up a temp tank to test. Out of interest. Have you seen the price of coil packs from Disco 2, All makes PR2 14 pound new. cheap! genuine aint too bad around £40.worth having as spares anyways. Video and pics, there are some good ones coming through on FaceAche, (facebook) feel free to use!

Thats next. - i'll drain tank and check and remove pick up and test. while thats out i'll throw it into a tub of fresh fuel and test / along with fuel pressure. I have a 4.2 ready to go in BUT i want to cure this fault because its bugging me and i want to know what it is! Probably be saturday now till i report back.

Fired up, first thing. i can rev her fairly slowly all the way up say 2 seconds to hit limiter, but if i plant my foot she dies. Also once rev'd if lift of the pedal and go straight to idle it usually dies, slowly bring the revs down she idles perfectly. Shes running on all 8. hopefully coil packs will turn up tomorrow and i'll change 1 and a time and see if that cures her, if not then new plugs, I cannot see it being the leads they are 18months oil Magnecor leads ????? Firstly as fuel tank etc was under water for a good 10 minutes i'll drain tank change filter and put fresh fuel in. I'm unsure if any got in (gauge didn't look noticeably different once on back on 4 wheels)

Predictive text on a phone... I should know better! Basically i changed settings as above, cleaned lambda senor she fires up as per normal, idles ok from cold, If i try and rev she revs ok if rev'd fairly slowely. After leaving her to idle for 5 -10 minutes. i try and rev her hard and 2- 10 she w'll rev up but majority of the time will die off. just dies, again if i can get her to rev maybe bounce the accelerator alittle then rev she'll rev up but not 100% and then dies off. up to running temp struggle to idle majority of the time again at low revs if i bounce the accelerator a little to help with idle she'll idle ok. On the road under load from idle she'll die. keep it reving and go she'll go but not great got to be careful.

Evening, changed settings as decribed Took lamda out, Didn't look to dirty in fairness, cleaned as described, Put back in. fired her up, Again from cold not toooo bad, warmer it gets the worse it gets, to she'll sometimes idle When hot on warm up idled ok. , then when warm reving again 2 out 10 times will rev up no problem but if i'm fast with the accelerator ir just doesnt rev and dies slowly with a big gulp of air and nothing.... I have ordered two new coil packs (i use disco 2 coil packs) they wil be here friday. gut feeling is one of them isnt happy

Awesome thank you. everyday a school day! will report back later this evening with findings and hopefully some good news.

rightio.... so what would you advise i change the settings too? Am i right in saying. I can remove the sensor and through a bung in and turn off (something) so it doesnt use the sensor anymore" I'm happy the way she ran before the flop..... Thank you very much for the input

I think if it was me, i'd have he ecu, relays and the majority of the wiring run to under the insert of the cubby box. I think the insert is held in by two little screws and i'm sure under that is enough room for the ecu and relays. I'm pretty confident there is power, ignition etc in there. I would leave the edis module under the bonnet. but its a very personal choice where you want it all i guess

Hello, i think I have the answer but unsure if its pin point-able over forum but hey, see what you think Basically fell over in a comp into water. nothing serious and all up on all fours again shortly after infact first flick of the key she was away ideling perfectly. Video from inside http://s722.photobucket.com/user/iomlr/media/whoopsSplat_zpsb302761e.mp4.html So got her back up and running no problem at all a little smokey but to be expected. ran for another hour just down on power and dying under load she wasnt popping or farting around just very little power. i just put it down to oiled up plugs. Got her home took plugs out slightly oily cleaned up move plugs around and fired up fine, reved well but then gets worse the hotter she gets, when up to running temp she loses power now again tick over seems fine but if PWM opens (when cooler) the air from pwm enters it can sometimes kill her. If i boot it from tick over, big pause then revs again sometimes will hit rev limiter other time cannot get up there and seems to die, no back fire or anything I'm thinking Coils pack. right bank. i haven't changed the plugs for new ones yet i'm going to change the plugs thats next i think..... but something tells me its coil pack attached is msq and a short log of me playing around with the accelerator.. anyone spot anything? I was just going to buy a coil pack and fix it but thought if i post on here it might come in handy for someone else Funny thing with MS over hotwire is when you take a roll an especially in water ms doesn't die. like a diesel having to turn her off! class love MS! fault lg.xls fault tune.msq

Had the 3.9 with megasquirt in for over 2 years now on the auto, goes like stink. not done a thing to it apart from some fresh oil. . <--- I had hotwire system before again no problem apart from deep water and after a couple of years a bit of moisture in the injector harness to a few of the injectors made it miss now and again. but all in all the engines themselves don't give trouble unless messed with! oh there cheap, plentiful, you have gearbox options to play with again plentiful and cheap.... I have had a 4.2 sat in the garage for 2 years now, i'm waiting to kill the 3.9.... i have been purposely being fairly rough with it, even overheated it a couple of times (heavy mud blocked rad) to try and find any excuse to replace it. the hotter she gets and the more abuse i give it the better the engine seems to be getting... 4.2 will have to say on the bench for a bit longer...

Sorted if anyone else needs the info, remove alan bolt and you can get a hook in there and pull it back

sorry for bringing up such a old thread but........ If the pin is stuck out and you're unable to remove the diaphragm what's the best way in? or is it purely a case of lubricating and fiddling with the plunger and hope for the pin to at least go in so the above and be done?

Really appreciate all that information.. a little more than i expected but i think doable.... Thank you again...