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Rough cost. of event and fuel require at event? Traveling down there. best and easiest routes? rough cost for the 1500+ mile trip Event camping / hotels whats best and cost? Spares availability or is it a case of helping everyone out / take your own? Did you trailer or lorry it down there with a 1 or 2 vehicles on? food while at the event? diy or provided for you? In the reg sheet it says no home made cages, how far / true is this? do you have to have a serial number on the cage? For the extreme class, (trophy) how much equipment (trip counters etc) do you need? it says no mobile and gps equipment allowed bar for emergencies, Looking to do 2015.. but require so real costings and picture painting from someone real rather than Big teams as the costs may differ. Thanks in advance

unplug it, fire it up try it.. if better then you know what it is... dont leave it unpluged for a long time... get it replaced. Dont unplug it with ignition on or running. and again dont plug it in when ignition is on or running.

agree with the above, you'll get the dash in, with some new mounts etc, but the heater you'll need to rethink or get someting small and adaptable. not worth the pain.. get a 300 shell or just buy a 300!

doesnt matter, just make sure you calibrate it. engine off. calibrate in close (throttle) and wide open (throttle) save etc. be fine.

They have stopped manufacturing these joints now I believe gwyn lewis has bought has many has he could find. I buy from gwyn my current set have lasted 5 years still going strong I run 35 extremes, hydro assist v8 lockers and offroad / lane a good few timesaweek. An extra thing I do isbin the nylon nut and buy lr nut that goes on the long bolt through the chassis that holds the bracket for the power steering// panard rod. its amuch deeper nut so more thread covered / protected etc

or ashcroft ones

make sure their genuine lr

In the comp truck 3.9 megasquirt, i blow diffs left right and centre and the odd cv (10 spline) the set up was all Range rover classic, then change the cv's (complete hubs actually) to TD cv's never blown s a cv since. diffs now built by nige and again no problems since. I'm still running range rover classic rear half shafts (mushroom end type) and have been for 6 years now and never blown one. (running 35 extremes)

nothing stupid like the transfer box has jumped out of hi or lo?

unsure what modern day monroe shocks are like, they again used to be a good upgrade. why not hold on to your current set up for alittle longer and save up. or get on the phone to a official retailer and haggle.

buy some hid lightforce lamps. You will not be disappointed!

HAHAHA did the language control really change (procomps) to ploppy plop plops lol love it!

There a good shock, OME another great shock and excellent road manors, Terrafirma for the more budget shock but slightly better than pro carp. Koni again good but more for road. how deep is your pocket is usually is the way for what shocks / suspension you use.

i used a classic Vw beetle tank in mine years ago, fits well in the floor and has curve out for the exhaust on the correct side. worked very well. and the out let is between the A frame so protected.

usually the fuel diaphragm splits and makes them god dam slowwwwww replace these and there good to go.

buy new wing, get it painted, unbolt old one, bolt new one, job done, job done right!

Hello, I'm looking to replace my rear quarter glass seals (1990 rrc) and i cannot find a stockist of MUC6414 /15 there no longer available. plus the price is alittle off putting. So before i put a wanted post in the wanted section i thought i'd see if anyone has come across a replacement? Any information on this would be very grateful. thank you in advance

there not expensive from LR for a V8 one. If your fitting EFI in then there are some modifications you need to do. not difficult, neater finish also. But you could easily adapt your td one to fir easily.

what engine are you running? 3.5 / 3.9 plus? manual i guess not auto? happy to have alook at one of your logs msq i'm not a expert at all but sometimes a second pair of eyes or a comparison to mine could spot something. i can even give you my current one as a try might work might not...

Very true - but where is the fun in that? lmao

once built could you set it in a jelly type mould, similar to that one the coil packs. I do totally understand if there is a probelm you'd have to build another. but is the likely hood of that happening? or would heat be a factor?

I don't know what you mean Nige...

nothing for me. If its around shoulder to neck height i wont care anymore i'll be out the truck.

Gwyns hydro assist with the question 1. Yes just alittle slower in return 2. Yes normal operation as factory set up just alittle heavier 3.if you bend snap the ramp i guess it will keep running but nnot very well as its just the steering box. 4. factory lr pump. since fitting mine, far more steady on the road. steering much more positive and in the heavy stuff assists the steering nicely. great bit of kit.

superficial...... hahaha. the thug only cough when it took a mouthful in and spat it out the exhaust... kept going! knownig the owner he would of catch the salt and sold it! lol My through the cab snorkel is going on next week. then we'll have some real pics.... Sam go for it! why else did you really get MS????? V8's under water sound even better... close your eyes - pretend to be james bond in his V8 powered ski boat.... LMAO