disco_al
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Posts posted by disco_al
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Already got full width cooler and tweaked pump. Would love to run it like this all the time, just worried about reliability as it's a daily driver.
General driveability is much better than standard. May just try the valve in the wastegate pipe to increase the pressure to 1.2 or 1.3 bar see what happens. Can do the hg in 3 hours these days
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Will check that first. I was getting 1.1 bar at the manifold. Was just toying with upping it in a controlled and easy to reverse way.
Did you do any specific mods to allow the use of 1.5 bar?
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I changed my turbo at the weekend (300 tdi) for a known good one. I also had to swap the pipe between the turbo and wastegate as it had perished and split (this caused an overboost situation , 1.5 bar at the manifold!!). All I did was swap the pipe from old to new. Now I am pretty sure that the pipe I have fitted has got an internal blockage, as it is boosting to 1.4 bar, which is nice enough, apart from last time it did this I blew the head gasket.
This had got me thinking....at the moment it's very driveable, I get boost from 1500 rpm of about 0.5 bar, which I am sure is more than normal. I haven't been booting it hard either.
If I extend the wastegate hose and fit an adjustable valve in it, is it safe to say that I can control the boost pressure? Essentially doing the same as adjusting the rod,but more controllable
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I am about to pick up an old horse trailer as a project (converting it to a normal trailer) and would like to change from the piddly little 13" wheels to LR hubs etc.
Anyone know where to get the stub axles/hubs from?
Or could I use some normal LR axle parts to do the job?
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Think the one in Craven Arms are pretty good. Ideally you would need to try the box first before taking the words of an eBay seller, that way you can make sure it works properly.
The self centering is a spring which you can change from the centre console.
Remove the gear stick gaitor, and you will see a rectangular cover at the base. This houses the spring, undo the 4 screws and you should see it underneath - cheap to replace as well. Be warned though, new ones bite. How bad is the synchro? It is a common problem on earlier R380's, and was cured later on. My 98 with 160k on the clock never crunches on me.
I do have a gearbox here out of my old one, that crunched in 2nd if rushed, and occasionally at random, but was liveable with on a day to day basis. Was just a case of changing slowly from 1st to 2nd - £80 and it's yours, and if i can find it, i have a fork i can reinforce for you at the same time.
To align mine, i used an 18mm (i think) socket on an extension bar, worked perfectly
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Sounds like the bearing failing. It may last another week, it may not though, and when it does go, you will not be able to engage gears with the engine running, only way to drive it then would be clutchless gearchanges - not easy if you've never done it. Safest option would be to change it unfortunately.
It can be done on the side of the road, but not easily. There is a guide in the tech library which details how to do the job. I changed mine and the entire gearbox over a weekend, could probably do it quicker now though.
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Sounds more likely to be something to do with the cover. Engaging gear with the engine off, but being unable to when the engine is running is a clearance issue, usually caused by either incorrect clutch plate installation, flywheel pot depth and wrong clutch combo etc. As the clutch itself has not been disturbed, then it only leaves the release mechanism. I remember reading somewhere that there are different length pushrods on the slave? Unless, i'm getting confused with something else. Anyway you can get hold of a bore scope? Even a cheap one from Maplins may be worth investing in, and poke it up through the drain hole in the bellhousing, or through the release arm cover to see what's going on.
Does it only do it when hot? or is it the same in the morning?
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What age disco? There is a blink test you can do on both early and late type. As for the pedal, it could be numerous things, does it feel spongy? That would indicate air in the system. Could also be the master cylinder has perished internally. If you are bleeding the brakes, then change the fluid completely while doing so, may help as fluid absorbs water over time. Most manufacturers recommend changing the fluid every 2-3 years because of this, and also it helps preserve the seals. If it was the servo, then the pedal would be hard, not soft.
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Windows - try swapping the switches about first. If not see if any voltage at connectors first, then worry about the ecu (it's fiddly to extract)
Rear wiper - could be a broken wire in the rear door loom. Try the MFU test procedure (it's in Rave) to eliminate that first.
Mirrors - could just be the switch
Heater fan - think you need a new switch for that one
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IF YOU FIT A SOLID FLYWHEEL / SPRUNG CLUTCH TO A TEDIOUS 5 (
) IT WILL HIGHLY LIKLEY EITHER DMAGE YOUR GEARBOX OR BREAK THE MAINSHAFT, YOU RERALLY NEED TO KEEP THE DMF IMVHO I'll second that emotion....I work on the "inside" of the clutch business now for one of the biggest companies out there - so have seen the evidence of the damage that can be caused.
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Plenty of red oxide after it's on, then a good coat of chassis black all over, followed by underseal wherever there is likely to be stone/mud/water impacting at high speed would be my preferred solution. Cavity wax into the body mounts where the bolts fit, before the bolts are inserted, followed by a quick spray once in and the a top up/over once in and done up - stop any water ingress between the rubber mounts, the bolt and the steel panel. Seam sealer along all joins/seams after painting, you could run black tiger seal (other super sticky stuff is available) in a nice neat bead to keep it tidy, and smooth into corners as you go (same idea as silicone round the bath)
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suspect it's the big bolt that attaches the anti roll bar drop link to the anti roll bar, same front and back on a 300tdi disco (all i remember is tha they are 24mm heads)
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I thought about giving up many a time with mine - but didn't, and the reward is being able to drive a Disco that is going to last a lot longer than most of the ones out there. You have spent faaar too much time on it to quit now.
Take a step back, a deep breath, and carry on - you know it makes sense.
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The damper is in the clutch system to, as the name suggests, damp any potential vibrations/oscillations from the clutch pedal. It's personal preference if you want to fit it. Quite a few VW/Audi group cars have them fitted these days due to concerns raised by owners over pedal vibrations when the clutch pedal was depressed.
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he did, it's a P38, lol - hat, coat, exit stage left.....
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i used these on my trailer
can't remember what make they were though - think they were about 12 quid each though
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IIRC there is a how to in the technical section which shows how to do it by sliding the box backwards. Easier than dropping the box on the floor or removing the engine.
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I prefer to be away before 9AM but it is all subject to 'outside influences' and 'unforeseen circumstances'...
roughly translated as "last orders" and "quantity consumed"
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email spanner monkeys - they now do them for £99 for a pair delivered
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Are you sure it's the clutch? try replacing the hydraulics first, could just be the master/slave going weak.
Iit should be a 3 piece clutch that you get, cover, plate and release bearing. Can't remember if there is a solid or dual mass flywheel on that age, if dual mass then have that replaced as well.
Crunching is usually down to clearance issues, hence the reference to the hydraulics, plus of course they are cheaper to replace than the clutch - jut make sure you replace both (think they come pre filled as a pair anyway) and use new fluid.
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My heater blower had been fed from a live feed from behind the dash, straight into the switch as it wouldn't work - caused by the accessory relay being corroded. The good news is that they are standard 4 pin relays, and there are some behind both the RH and LH kick trims (and under the seat as well on electric seat models)
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First, welcome to the forum.....Second, your problems.
- Cruise Control buttons - Not sure but bear with me....
- Heater Circulation button - Possibly related to a fault i had with mine, where the buttons didn't work, and the blower had been fed from a live feed (keep with me here)
- A/C button - As above
- Rear windows never worked - I changed the Window ECU and still nothing - cant hear the relays working either - Switches, or motors. Easy way is to strip the door card off, find the connector and apply a 12v feed to the pins - if motor is good then it's the switches (or another dodgy ecu, there is a repair guide in the tech archive)
- Rear wiper and water jet - possibly related to below....
- Rear Fog Lights - ....these are controlled by the multi function unit on the back of the fuse box. Also controls heated rear screen as well if memory serves. It could be the buttons. I thought mine were playing up recently, until i realised you have to push and hold the fog light button for them to come on.
Now, first thing to do is download a copy of Rave, the technical bible. Makes a Haynes manual look like the instructions for Lego
As it is invaluable for the correct wiring diagrams and procedures.Next would be to check all the relays behind the A pillar kick trims. I had similar electrical gremlins and it turned out to be several corroded relays causing the issues, mainly due to water ingress through the rusty A panels (that's a different tale). There are also a couple of earth points behind there as well which could cause issues.
I think there is a link to the Rave manuals listed in the tech archive
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TDi's and TD5's had a catalyst, not a DPF. However, it's easier on a TDi to remove the cat, as there was no actual point from when they were fitted as standard on all models. TD5's are a different matter, and AFAIK they all had them (unless the early pre euro 4 ones didn't of course). Either way, it shouldn't affect the MOT for those of us who have removed them, unless the tester is a complete numpty.
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Looks like accumulated gunk from years of neglect to me. Personally i would drain the system down, refill with water and add a few spoons of washing powder (biological kind) then run for a few days, before flushing with clean water and then adding the correct antifreeze. Green (or blue) is usually ethylene glycol based, rather than the usual pink/orange OAT brand.
A few years ago Ford started using 10 year long life antifreeze, which was a nice purple colour, and if the LR cooling systems were more reliable, then i was going to use some of that in my previous 300 TDi.
Boost control
in International Forum
Posted
The 'bleed valve' I was going to use is essentially a brass tap. Open to increase the amount that can reach the wastegate, so stock turbo tune, close it to restrict the flow, increasing boost (in theory)