disco_al

the bearmach HD rear springs will give you a slight, 1-1.5" lift on the back end - at least that's how minelooks.

any oil in the gearbox? lol it's probably just the gears turning, and as there is no load on them they are running noisy

put it in diff lock, does it drive? if so then it's either a drive member, as you've already found, or it's a cv or half shaft. worse case it's the output shaft into the transfer box - but as the prop is spinning, that is ruled out.

very nice acredit to the time and effort you have put into the project. how easy was it to remove the body? i've got a 3 door coming my way in a few months time, and i think i'd like to take the body off to renovate it (plus the body will fit in the back garden nicely)

not really a good idea as you need the vac pump to generate the vacuum to run the servo, without it you would have no servo assistance on the normal foot brake.

is the log staying? would make a fantastic euro box battering ram

I have managed to obtain these parts from what i can gather they are defender snorkel bits n bobs, can anyone shed any light on them?

funny you should mention this, as i just changed my air filter this weeken and found a dead one in the air box. as for a finer mesh, i don't think there is one ready made, although some of the diamond pattern stuff they sell in halfrauds for the saxo brigade could be fashioned to fit just behind the standard grille i suspect. will have a play this weekend

give them chance for they will come once spring arrives

spotted this on the BBC website, why are Mazda concerned? We've had LR Spiders for years and they've never caused a problem....

make sure you don't lose those tools in the back quarter - it's rare to find one with them still in place. is that a self levelling shocker i see in there as well??? be surprised if it still works. here's some inspiration for you mmmmm

it could be a long range touring tank. part number doesn't suggest it that i can see, but they were fitted to some of the LSE's and other models as an option. a normal tank is about 90 litres, the touring tank IIRC is about 130/140 litres?

tbh they are not that good. one of our customers services them, and they are almost comparable to a navara in reliability terms. cambelt failures are common (caused by the crank pulley falling apart), rear springs fail on an almost annual basis, the air operated solenoids for the diffs/4x4 system play up, gearboxes are prone to bearing wear, fuel consumption is horrendous, the turbo's suffer with boost problems leading to limp mode, head gaskets and cracked heads are also a major problem, and they are rather uncomfortable after a long drive. there is barely any room in the back as well on the double cabs, very cramped, you'd be better off with a double cab 110.

don't think there is a P gasket on the TD5....

switching to the 99-02 disco 2 lights on a series 1 disco is a straight swap, unclip the 3 adjusters from the front panel (pull the pin and twist 1/3rd of a turn, unplug the wiring, swap the new lamp over (you may have to swap the adjusters if they are new lights) clip in job done - simples.

This popped up on another forum - not really good news for LR, but could it also be a design fault with the fitting of the lifts???

depends if it's an OE one or an aftermarket, and if you wanted sweet n sour sauce with it genuine factory fit ones are going for about £40-£60 round here (mixed scrap is currently £195/ton) aftermarket cats are worth about a fiver, as they aren't made from precious metals, rather a ceramic equivalent

yes, the manual gearbox models had the normal cable pump, but the auto's had fly by wire

it was brand new, with the headlights and the headlight surrounds - from craddock surplus i think

IT'S ALIIIIIVE!!!!! We had another go last night, and spotted something really silly. When everything is in the timed up position, it wouldn't fire, so we rotated the crank by hand through 1 revolution, which effectively puts the cam and fuel pump 180 deg out from the crank. after scratching our heads for a few minutes while we looked at the partially assembled bottom end on the engine stand, and thought of something..... So, we left the timing set with the crank at TDC on 1 & 4, the cam effectively 180 deg out, and set the pump to it's timed position - and it fired and ran!!!! Weird or what? none of the pulley's were disturbed when i changed the belt, it was a case of old belt off, new belt on, tighten tensioner, rotate engine couple of times to make sure it lines back up, job done. Cheers to all for the pointers, it gave us somewhere to look.

i'm liking the rat look viper stripes on the bonnet there was one of those vertical slat grilles just sold on ebay for just over £200

we've deduced that the stop solenoid is ok, as there is fuel from the injector pipes when cranking

right, the timing has been checked and re checked and still no go so next step is we are going to try a different set if injectors to see if that makes a difference, and if all else fails we'll swap the injector pump for a spare one that we have. i'm sure i put it back on, but will double check anyway, will also run a jump lead from the block to the battery earth, just to be sure. apart from the usual hammering sound of easy start, it sounds real nice when it fires any other suggestions are greatfully welcomed.....

maybo those two in fridge's post had been out to sit on the rangie's bonnet and that's why the seal went....

is it a 300 turbo, fitted on a 200 perchance?