disco_al

You'll be pulling about 60 in real terms - mine reads 30mph but sat nav says 33/34 ish.

stolen from another forum http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/LAND-ROVER-DEFENDER-90-COUNTY-STATION-WAGON-/271318895434?pt=Automobiles_UK&hash=item3f2bddcb4a&clk_rvr_id=549743635765&afsrc=1 take the pink bits off and give it some proper wheels and tyres, it may look reasonable.....

Sounds like a good one to me. As long as funds allow (MOT in January and Tax in February), I may be able to pop along for a day trip (Rhayader is only up the road - 45 mins away) or even escape for a night.....pen me in as a provisional yes (TBC)

Incidentally, if it is a 7 seater it has to have air springs on the back due to construction & use regs, plus the seaters were only type approved to have the air springs. Make sure the autobox has been serviced properly too (filter changed at correct intervals) as they can be costly to fix when they go wrong. Injector wiring harness problems with oil ingress (causes a misfire) - unplug the wiring to the ECU (drivers side - big red connector?) if it has oil in then negotiate a new loom for the injectors in the price. Look for fuel leakage underneath, although not easy to see due to the undertray, as this can be a sign of a faulty fuel pressure regulator. Listen for the fuel pump as well, if it's loud enough to hear, then agan, try and negotiate a replacement with the dealer - best part of 200 quid for a new one. Rust on the rear of the chassis by the fuel tank is a major D2 problem - my brothers' 2004 D2 has got this problem, not enough to warrant any welding yet, but will in a few years time. Sunroof's leak due to the drain tubes either blocking or breaking off the tray under the headlining. If the tyres are looking close to the limit - especially if they are 18", then again, negotiate replacements in the price. You can use P38 alloys on a D2, so finding 16" replacements to have a set of winter/off road all terrains on is easy (apart from buying the tyres, although you could use one of the deals in the likes of LRO on wheel and tyre packages and sell the steel rims on to recoup some of the costs). Make sure ALL the electrics work. If it has heated seats, check under the back, as the connectors can break. Previous posters have mentioned the ACE pipes, check them thoroughly, very pricey to replace. If it has air suspension at the back, take a spray bottle with soapy water in, spray the air springs and get it raised up to off road height - any bubbles will show a leak - another bargaining point. As always, do not buy the first one you look at - go and have a look, take it for a test drive, leave your phone number and walk away saying you'll need to think about it - odds are if they are desperate to shift it they'll ring you in a day or two with a lower price - that to me would ring alarm bells - if they don't then go back with bargaining power in your hands. I know people don't think much of Mike Brewer, but he does know how to point out things to help bring the price of a car down. Buying this time of year will also attract the Winter premium in the 4x4 market - more so with the press forecasting "ice age" and "snowmaggedon". Bide your time, wait until spring, and buy one when the prices drop by a few hundred quid - spend your money getting the D1 upto scratch, and use that as a showcase for your business maybe?

isn't it the same fuse box as a late D1?

i don't remember rubbing salt in my eyes - but they burrrnnnn....

does sound like over fuelling to me, especially as it smells of diesel

but aren't wing tops available separately from the outer skin on defenders? what about an x-locker for the sides of 110's and 90's

it can be done - one of the guys in the DIscovery Owners club runs his 300tdi with an lpg system. Think it uses some kind of vacuum system to regulate when the gas enters the manifold

has anyone started building a 130 as a hearse to carry the last one off the production line yet??? defender owners could line the route from coventry to gaydon as a ceremonial tribute... will be a sad day, true, but times move on, and unfortunately the defender is a casualty of the ever tightening laws and regs coming from europe. as we all know, defenders will not disappear from the roads, it will probably take another 67 years before they are all gone, lets just hope that jlr listen to what buyers want, and don't pander to the "soft roader" brigade and make it too, um, girly??

screen MTC3452 rubber MUC3733 taken from page 835 on here http://www.retroanaconda.com/landrover/parts_books/90/9_body_chassis_p794-923.pdf

http://s34.photobucket.com/user/quattro_6900/media/New%20Disco%202/n8-548.jpg.html'> 235/85 BFG AT's on standard Boost alloys with Bearmach Blue HD springs all round. Don't get any rubbing on the back, even with all my tools in or a loaded trailer and only had to adjust the one lockstop.

Don't think I would squeeze a body shell through customs.....

70 mph from memory is around 2500-3000 rpm (haven't been anywhere to get near 60 lately) so is right in lift pump territory. when did you last change the fuel filter?

here's the pics http://s34.photobucket.com/user/quattro_6900/media/20130917_193029.jpg.html'> http://s34.photobucket.com/user/quattro_6900/media/20130917_193035.jpg.html'> http://s34.photobucket.com/user/quattro_6900/media/20130917_193021.jpg.html'>

i'll have a look tomorrow for you and get a pic

I have a re useable ns one in my shed. Bottom part iscthe only rusty bit. Was removed carefully as I was planning to re use it myself

Not the cable unfortunately. It does it if you operate the pump by hand as well

Silicone and stainless hoses, already checked them today.

I'm having problems  since getting blue back on the road, it's as if she's been possessed by some malevolent spirit. Sunday the head gasket went, so did that Monday (3.5 hours start to finish), since then I've had a problem with the power. When you hit 3k rpm, the engine dies, as in loss of power, and the boost drops off as well. Accompanied with this I can see quite a lot of blueish smoke coming out of the exhaust. Under 3k she's fine. I've changed the lift pump, turbo and I fitted a known good head as I would rather get the one removed checked before using it again. The sedimentor is clean (cleaned it last week while building up the chassis) and has been checked just in case. There was a slight drip from the spindle seal on the pump last week, which stopped after a day or two. Other than this annoying problem, she's running fine. Could it be the leak on the IP is letting air in under load (even though it's not dripping any more) or should I consider changing the injectors (I have 2 spare sets) in case one is faulty? Sent from my GT-I9300 using Tapatalk 2

Both engines were running perfectly. The one the head came off was retired due to rust. The one it is on now spent 9 months last year being welded, and the head was swapped at xmas, just before the mot. It came off the road again at the end of June for the chassis swap, and was only put back on the road last Thursday. An elring gasket was used at Xmas (won't touch the blue boxes) along with new bolts due to unknown history on the old ones. Anyway, it was the gasket starting to go on no3. Changed it today in 3 hours (done a few 300's) and all seems fine, apart from a lack of power over 3k and an occasional misfire at the same time, so thinking lift pump and new fuel filter.

Just finished swapping the chassis. It's a relatively new head, swapped it off my old one which had only done 6k miles with it on. From memory it was a layered gasket that went on too. Hopefully it hasn't warped, the gauge never went up into the red, and I topped the water up as soon as the tank stopped bubbling enough to get the cap off

it's probably oil mist from the turbo - quite normal to have some in the intercooler pipes etc

300 tdi - sorry

Right,after 2 days back on the road and only 50 miles I think my hg has gone, just wanted 2nd opinion please. Hoses are hard, lots of bubbling and very pressurised header tank (takes nearly 5 mins to stop after loosening the cap) No unusual smoke from the exhaust, apart from earlier when coming down a hill on overrun there was a lot of blueish smoke coming out. Stopped, released the pressure and the smoke stopped. Mis firing when under load, at about 3k rpm, accompanied by a puff of blue smoke at each misfire. Not using oil, no sign of water contamination in oil either. Other than that runs sweet, smooth tickover and even sounds fine. So what's the diagnosis guys n gals?