disco_al

any good?

link doesn't work for some reason

it's something to do with the voltage. i seem to remember that if a battery discharges below a certain point, then it will trip the locking system when another drain is added. a lot of older vehicles do this, not sure why though. it's the same when you jump start a car, make sure the door or window is open, otherwise the central locking usually cycles when you connec the leads up. best thing to do is leave the drivers door on it's catch, rather than actually shut, that way it can't lock the keys in.

i would say that you need to jack the body up looking at the pic, as you have removed the body mount to do the job.

i take it that's the one along the inner wing by the rad tank? just had to replace mine to get the a/c working. no aftermarket types around for this, best bet is to have a word with and a/c specialist (the mobile ones are usually best) to see if the can repair it.

before you take it to be gassed, check the alloy pipe that runs along the rh inner wing. it's held to the wing by a "p" clip just by the coolant tank/fuse box. when i took mine to be done last year, the pipe had corroded, and fell apart on this point - fitted what looked like a good 2nd hand one, that did the same - ended up buying a new pipe and receiver/drier (they are dead after 10 mins exposed to air) air con is now nice and cold. 5 deg C at the vents was measured.

the 300 turbo is part of the manifold, and as such can't be separated.

when i get five minutes i'll scan the back pages of the gas spring catalogue i have here, and get someone to add them to one of the posts. the details give extended length, stroke length and force (in N) per rod. there is also a set of drawings to go with it for the type of end fittings. some of them (audi's stand out) use a welded eye on the end, rather than a ball joint.

i was getting oily spots on the back door of the disco when the turbo was on it's way out

i think it's a case of working it out like this....... disco tank is 90 litres ~ 19.82 gallons (say 20 to make it easy) at 25 mpg this would be 20 gallons x 25mpg = 500 miles range approx. sooo at 1.21/litre (£5.49/gallon ) that would be 20 gallons x 5.49 = £109.80 500 miles/£109.80 = 4.55p/mile so allowing for wear and tear i would say about 10p/mile for commuting, for business use i would include the insurance difference between normal SDP and business divided by the number of miles driven.

the dual mass is there to damp out vibrations, the good old noise, vibration,harshness that manufacturers talk about - passenger comfort stuff - and also to allow the engine to spin up faster at low revs. The first stage of the flywheel makes it light, then when a certain engine speed is reached it gets heavier via centrifugal force. i have heard from various sources that changing to a solid version could possibly lead to engine damage, as the vibrations then travel down the crank and mainshaft in the box. transits are the main ones to watch, as i have heard of instances of big end damage from replacing the DMF. there should be a way of checking the spring force in the DMF, the only other way to check is to look for cracks and blueing of the surface, if in any doubt - change it, it's easier to do the job once than have to do it again in 6 months time. what is the mileage? if it's over 70k, then i would swap it anyway.

for outright grunt you can't beat a v8, but for torque (which you really need for towing) you need a diesel, as it's generated much lower down the rev range. my old 3.5 was hopeless for towing, especially on lpg, as the power was in the wrong place. my 300 tdi disco will pull a twin axle ifor williams loaded up with 100+ bales at 60 mph happily all day long - and it will return a decent mpg (usually around 26 when loaded up)

the flat belt disco alternators are rated at 100 amp according to my parts book, the earlier ones with a v belt are classed as 65amp.

mine waa delivered last night the driver thought i was opening a chip shop until i explained it to him - he's now going to add some to his LDV van.... 60 litres added last night to about 30 litres of diesel (so roughly 66/33 split oil to diesel) and it's running ok, it's a bit more smokey when the turbo kicks in, so will top up with diesel in a few days to dilute it a bit more. she does pull a lot better and sounds quieter too

we'll be making the news at this rate "Internet forums trigger veg oil shortage at Tesco's" :D

not really as you can use upto 2500 litres (550 gallons) of the stuff a year without paying tax, which is enough for approx 15k miles @ 28mpg

head yourselves down to Tesco if you use neat veg oil in your trucks, 3 litres of Tesco's finest is on offer till the 18th.....£2.53 BUY ONE GET ONE FREE......so that's equivalent to 42p/litre for FRESH oil!!!! :blink: needless to say i've just ordered 20 of them, delivered to my door, for just under £30. 60 litres of fuel for 50p/litre :D

i've got a mix n match set of nuts on my disco. some have got caps, and some haven't. easiest solution - clamp em in a vice and remove the caps from the nuts....

gearbox 2.67 litres transfer 2.3 litres

It is possible to do. You need to talk to someone nicely who has got a 300 series to start with. Then armed with some cardboard, some biscuits/beer/cider/whatever they like, and an hour or two to spare, go and visit them. Then once bribed with pre purchased items, make some templates with the cardboard as to where to make some incisions. From memory the wings are the same 200/300 series (well they look the same) The main reason for the templates is to make it easier, as they do have three mountings as opposed to the 200 series 2 mountings. The other option is to find a scrapper and cut the mounting panels out and re weld them into yours. Although i'd prefer to use the template method

nice one, i do like the BTTF Delorean for all you Tomtom users, check <here> they've got a G4 Disco :)

black smoke sounds more like a fuel problem to me. has the pump timing slipped? maybe jumped a few teeth, that would explain the black smoke and the loss of power, as the pump timing would be wrong. if it was major engine failure then blue smoke would be evident.

i may not have been clear enough the slider is straightforward enough to work out, it's the actual back plate that bolts to the truck i'm not sure about.

i put a set of cooper discoverer st's on just before xmas. i looked at bfg's and the like, and the coopers came out as the best value for money that i could find. reviews were good at 30k+ miles out of a set, and they have been fantastic so far. they coped really well in the snow, have been brilliant across wet muddy fields, and have pretty good road manners without being too loud either.

This is going to sound like a silly question, but which way up does the plate that bolts to the towbar go? i've bolted one to the back of the disco, and i'm not sure if it's the right way round pics would be nice.