disco_al

they get my vote too - Sureterm (who i was with last year, and who give discount for Discovery Owners Club members) wouldn't quote me this year with the extras i've added , Glynnwood gave the best quote of everyone on their specialist 4x4 policy (which is underwritten by LV) - over £200 cheaper than the likes of Flux and NFU, even with nearly 20 years of NCB

If memory serves the abs sensors on a td5 are integral to the bearings. It sounds to me like it could be the valve block shuttle valve problem. As has been asked, where are you? Someone local may have the diagnostic kit to find the problem

give a company called glynnwood a try - just took out a policy with them with all my mods declared for £345 fully comp - no claims not used & 7k miles a year. sureterm/lancaster refused to cover me, and everyone else ranged from £500 to the ridiculous end of £1200!! even though i'm 38 with a full clean licence

the only other difference is abs and non abs have different bearings. only pre 89 (i think) had the railko type bushes, rather than the taper bearings

i've got 85's on mine. she's sat on bearmach blue hd springs all round, and i've only had to adjust the bumpstops at the front for the steering, other than that, no rubbing problems on any of the arches, even when fully loaded or towing a 2 tonne load

Basically, are there any? Can a RRC chassis fit under a disco 1 shell? I can't find anyone that makes a disco 1 galvanised chassis, but i can find a RRC one

235/85's don't look too bad imho.....

or you could have used the feed to the stop solenoid

TD5 i take it? start by checking for coolant leaks from the thermostat in the bottom hose, not normally noticeable due to the undertray.

the welsh space program needs a rethink.....wrong type of Discovery

check the seal between the heater inlet and the scuttle panel, probably needs resealing. drop the glovebox down, unclip the hinges so it drops right down, and you should be able to remove it and reseal then. you'll also need to remove the scuttle panel at the bottom of the windscreen too.

It can be done, however, it does involve some cutting of the front panel, and the front wings to make them fit. The mountings are different, and has been said, the wiring does need altering too (BMW/Rover 75's use the same connectors IIRC). One thing though, after driving my brothers TD5 with the facelift headlights - i prefer the normal 300/early TD5 lights, as the output (even with Osram nightbreakers) on low beam is dismal. Much better to add some relays into the circuit to improve the voltage to the standard bulbs - and a lot cheaper. 2nd hand facelift headlights over here fetch well over £200 per pair, and are quite commonly being pinched because of this. I'd personally get a lift in a facelift TD5 first, before considering the swap.

thanks western. it's not going on my truck, selling it for a friend and just want to test it first. so essentially, just bung a bolt in the hole and attach a jump lead -ve to it then? 12v to the rear terminal, and one to either of the others to test direction? i take it the bolt only needs to go in enough for it to grab ie a few turns, and not all the way then?

Right, i've got a Husky superwinch sat in my shed, and i need to test the motor, i do not have a remote for it though, or a solenoid. How can i test the motor? There are 3 big black cables, two go to the gear end of the motor, and one to the rear, now i'm assuming that hooking these to a battery should cause a response from the motor. I've checked the manual in the tech archive, but it doesn't really help me much cheers all

can't remember exactly, but i did use a banjo bolt and a new turbo to fuel pump pipe from LR cut down and fed into the boost gauge pipe. i'll see if i can find the size (i think i got it off here somewhere)

not necissarily - my boost gauge is plumbed into the inlet manifold, via the blanking bolt at the back of it, and it briefly registers 1.2 bar on full throttle, before settling to a steady 1 bar, and that was a new turbo straight out the box, running through an allisport full width intercooler

hmmm, has it got a throttle cable? that should narrow it down

could be the auto box, as they sap power, hence the reason for the auto's having the electronic injection pump (fly by wire). you can get them chipped for more power, but as for tuning the pump, you'd need to change the injection pump, injectors and pedal to a manual one. as for removing the egr and the cat, no problems on that one. get a blanking kit from ebay (about a tenner) and a front pipe from a 110, or a non cat 300 tdi and swap them over. diesel mot is just smoke test anyway

The O/S bumper side light holder on my Disco keeps melting, any ideas? My suspicion is too high a current caused by an earth problem maybe?

if it even had an mot of course

wow, that's going to be interesting to do. the accessory functions such as wipers, rear fogs, heated rear window etc are controlled via the multi function unit on the back of the fuse box. i would imagine that with a lot of patience that you could remove the central locking and alarm system from a loom. you'll need to get hold of a copy of Rave for the wiring diagrams though. have you tried a spider bypass unit?

it's a common problem Jim - I'll have a look for the fix

unless you are going over a 2" suspension lift, then you don't really need to worry too much - the bushes take up the slight increase in angle. Mine is on Bearmach HD springs all round, which give about a 2" lift, plus the 85 series tyres which add a bit more, no major issues (so far) and no comment from mr mot man either

Bear with me, only flicked through the thread and not read every post (lazy i know). In response to some questions about fitting to a Disco 2, I haven't personally put one on a D2, but i do have one on my D1.....It's connected to the 7" screen on my headunit (really good one for the money, made by xtrons - ebay cheapy ) the camera is mounted in the rear bumper, just above the tow bar, and gives quite a good picture. It wasn't supplied with the head unit, but cost about £20 delivered. This is the headunit - and yes it receives TV (via an external digital receiver) A friend of mine has got 5 cameras on his Defender - one on each mirror, one on top of the roll hoop pointing back, and two in the front edge of the wings, pointing sideways, linked to 2 sunvisor monitors - perfect for looking out of blind T junctions. I'll try and get some pics

spirit of salts is best for concrete floors/drives - but definately not for tarmac