disco_al

it is possible, yes. it's worth considering what you are going to be using it for though first. if you are thingking of off roading, then it may be worth having the petrol tank replaced with 2 x gas tanks, and a smaller 8 (?) gallon petrol tank fitted in the rear 1/4 panel. This would leave your "break over" angle unaffected then, as sill tanks can be a PITA off road sometimes, even though they still don't hang that low (slightly higher than the diffs). the other advantage of having them at the back is that you can fit bigger tanks too = more range. my 3.5 disco manages about 150 miles between LPG fill ups (2 x sill tanks, 56 litres cap). Under the back IIRC you can get larger tanks, as there is more room. Plus they are protected by the chassis too.

if you can strip them back to bare metal, then what about powder coat? only costs about £15 per wheel

nice job :th: was thinking of something similar for mine. why not make a template out of ply, or offer to send out a paper template? people could make their own then

must be the lack of Capri rear spoilers these days, as they used to go down a treat with the monkeys at West Midlands Safari Park.

IIRC the dual fuel thing only applies to factory conversions, not aftermarket if anyone knows different, then do please enlighten us LPG-heads

freaky, the bonsai feline only lists that one for the lt230

try these people http://www.tintedwindows.co.uk/

some of the professional companies spray the tint on, or so i have heard. It may be worth a trawl round the internet for limo conversions, or window tinting.

i use Nod32 antivirus and it's fantastic, uses much less memory than AVG, and it updates quicker too. Check out Comodo for a free secure firewall solution too..... (The antivirus and firewall are installed on my laptop which i use memory map on, when i go laning in the disco )

Congratulations once again Mr.Fridge. much respect is due, i have seen the photo's....... why doe the back of that Terrano (?) to the right of the 109 look caved in?

if it's good enough for the G4 trucks, it must be fine.

my lubricant book says 10w/40 semi synthetic for the V8's, although i have been using 15/40 mineral in my 91 disco v8

congratulations to the HOFS team, outstanding result - it must have been the hob nob diet while building Mouse will it be making a guest appearance at Billing/Peterborough by any chance?

welcome in, and good luck with your first landrover. there are plenty of helpful people on here to guide you should you get stuck (mechanically and muddily ) the tech archive is your friend for any other times - miles better than the Haynes book of lies

only a small puddle then good to know they are still in the running though

unusual routing there. most of them use the hole in the inner wing above the highest flat part (3rd picture from right) where you have routed it is where the second battery usually resides (mostly the jack on some models) nice job though

lovely stuff, cheers

found it - tech archive to the rescue

does anyone know if or where the ABS diagnostic socket is on a H plate RRC?

should have said, it's a 91 3.5 with hotwire AFM. megajolt/squirt would be nice, but cashflow prohibits anything major like that at the moment

I reset the timing on the D1 3.5 v8 last night using a nice shiny new stroboscopic timing light (inductive type) to about 4-6 deg BTDC (Everywhere i have checked says the 9.35:1 comp engine should be timed at 0 deg ) to allow for the gas. whilst doing this i noticed that the vac advance unit is loose, so i tried to tighten the small cr*ppy torx screws that hold it, but no luck. The one is easy to get to, but the back one is tight on access, as the top hose etc is in the way. It doesn't move around that i can tell, and i don't think it's affecting the timing, but what is the best way to make sure it's secure? I did think about a blob of epoxy resin to hold it for now, and then remove the dizzy and sort it at a future date, before resetting the timing (again). Any suggestions from the v8 guru's most gratefully welcomed......

slightly off the track, but i know where there are 2 109 recovery trucks round here.... as for helping out, not sure about recovery, but have contemplated stopping to help with wheel changes etc (although i reckon changing a wheel should be part of the driving test) best course of action is to get something on paper, signed by both parties to state no liability for any damaged caused whilst recovery in process, witnessed would be best, but in the early hours on dark country road, your unlikely to find one of those.

don't forget as well that a stainless performance type exhaust will extract the gasses faster than a standard system. what type of air filter is it? standard or K & N style? you may find that you will have to fit a cone type filter, or "performance" free flow filter to compensate for the exhaust. it would also pay to get the emmissions checked now that you have changed it. i may be completely wrong, but from my "normal" car tuning days, this is what i found after switching to a stainless system, because the engine breathed out better, it needed a higher air flow to comensate

Mouse looks perfectly at home in that mud. Well done to all involved, let's hope for first.

sounds like you need a longer cable, or adjust the tickover screw on the carb (if it has one of course) running on is usually timing related