disco_al

change the sensor first - could just be a faulty/blocked one causing a dodgy signal to the light. ultimately get a decent gauge to keep an eye on what's going on. when was the oil last changed?

it'll be a blue connector under the drivers side cover under the wheel - 5 pin if memory serves - can't remember which pins you need to bridge though

what about the back of the column switch? should be a feed from there

wow, that's worse than mine - one point that hasn't been mentioned - how much MOT was on it when you bought it? there is no way that's recent rust, takes a while for it to get that bad on a chassis. i'd seriously consider consulting an independant LR specialsist for a repair quote on that one - better to get the experts to do it than take a risk - i'm not even going to attempt to weld my chassis, i've got my old disco with a sound chassis and knackered body to swap my nearly repaired body onto

ahh, the actual outer panel. I'd be inclined to rivet a new strip of angle aluminium on there, probably be best option.

have a look in http://s34.beta.photobucket.com/user/quattro_6900/library/#/user/quattro_6900/library/New%20Disco%202?&_suid=135280692074506592772267727603 plenty of dismantled disco pics to choose from

just posted in your other thread on the best set to get....

First locate and disconnect the ABS relay, in my case under passenger glove box. It has green base with Black/Grey, Brown/Pink, Black, Black wires Access the 16 pin socket under steering and locate pin 4 (Black) and pin 15 Red/Green Turn on ignition.....Have pen & paper ready to count flashing ABS light. Reach under the dash and bridge pin 4 & pin 15 with a paperclip The ABS light will begin to flash but don't worry about it yet. You need to get comfortable and watch the sequence. You'll eventually notice the sequence begins with a long flash (about a second) Followed by a short flash two seconds later. The next sequence of flashes will count out the first digit (in my case 6) followed by a short pause then another sequence for the 2nd digit (in my case 12) If you don't get it first time don't worry, so long as you don't remove the paperclip link it will repeat the sequence. If you'r happy you've got the latest fault code you can do two things. 1/ turn off the ignition to save the code or 2/ remove the paperclip while its flashing to delete the fault code. If you've got the patience you can go through all the codes this way. To get the code translated go to this page: http://www.bba-reman.com/content.aspx?c ... tification

it's usually down to sensor gap, or damaged wiring. i found that mine was being over sensitive because the bronze support bearing in the stub axle had broken up causing errors. as mentioned try the paperclip test first (if i can find the info i'll post it up) how old is the disco? early ones had a blue 5 pin connector, later ones were the 17 pin scart style plug

it depends on the supersession level of the coil packs too (i used to work at a ford dealer). the early ones are prone to fail every couple of years in normal use, ford have superceded them several times, and the cheap aftermarket ones are the old stock from ford, sold off after they revise them. generally speaking, avoid fuelparts, qx, anything in a plain white box, intermotor etc....get genuine ford ones from the main dealer - yes they'll be pricey, but they will be more reliable than the cheap stuff.

been there done that got the weld burns i cut a large section out of the inner quarter, then used that as a template to get the right shape for the dickie seat mounts to sit in (took some bashing) have a look in my album for plenty of pics http://s34.photobucket.com/albums/d102/quattro_6900/New%20Disco%202/

eave them as one is easiest. if there is rust in the pillars than there will probably be rust behind the inner rear 1/4 panels (i know) there are also two countersunk screws along the top edge of the quarter panel that need to come out as well - quite a straightforward job really.

yes. there are a few about online, but the more the merrier. not many with good detailed pics. i'm currently refurbing a good 2nd hand x-member to put on mine, so have pics of where the spot welds are on the rear door to crossmember if they will help you, as some are a PITA to find otherwise (and get at)

check the ignition load relay. had problems with my a/c not working (it had been bodged with a 12v feed from the fusebox), turned out the ign load relay was faulty and not allowing the a/c any power. it's in the rh footwell behind the kick panel, water had been getting in through the "ventilation holes" in the A panel

yep, it's fiddly at times, but is certainly do-able

A/C isn't affected by the dash removel, apart from an extra switch or two to remove - been there done that. Haynes say you have to remove the heater box, but it is possible to leave it all in place, just a bit fiddly to get at the pipes. Don't replace the dash until you've refilled the coolant and made sure that the connections to the matrix don't leak either. N/S one is a right PITA as well, screws are 12 point IIRC and need a 3/8 socket on a double extension to get at - after removing the glovebox completely.

you think LR prices are bad.....(don't flame me for this - but just a comparison)....Mazda 6 front pads £162 + VAT, Mazda 3 parcel shelf (yes, the bit of fabric covered plastic in the boot) £350 + vat......stuff for "normal" cars is ridiculous, more so than LR genuine stuff.

not jealous in the slightest......... :ph34r:

good tips there, ideally it should really be added to the end of te thread on replacing the x-member, although i'm sure one of the grown ups will be along to sort it out change it anyway, all the new kits come with the modified parts in them, plus with unknown history, it may never have been done - especially in it's early life with the cost of labour etc.....

hmmmmmmm, interesting one. how long before the facebook campaigns start then??? or better still, get it sent to the bbc or other news network, give it a good doom n gloom headline grabbing topic, and see what happens - The Sun springs to mind, especially as they don't like the EU much anyway....

just to clarify - in order to power up the electrical system without upsetting the airbag ecu, remove the yellow sheathed wire from the fuse box, as well as the corresponding fuse, and you can safely power up the electrical circuit without causing problems

turned out to be the ignition load relay after all the investigation.....swappped for a known good one, ad everything's peachy

or i can supply one ready made for £30 posted.........

I've got an allisport one on mine - full width type - and apart from the hassle of fitting (drilling the pipe holes in the front panel), i couldn't recommend having one enough :) when coupled (as said) with the full set of pump tuning steps (not just turning the diaphragm, but also adjusting the star wheel etc..) it makes a phenomenal difference. When i first fitted it to my green disco, i could spin all 4 wheels on a dry road (with cooper discoverer st's on) and the difference it made with towing and overtaking made the disco feel much better and safer. However, it did highlight the shortcomings in the suspension (it was fairly original stuff, with 160k on it) so i had to fit new springs, shocks and anti roll bar links to bring the handling into line with the power gains. I have an EGT gauge, but do not welly it for long enough if i can help it, basically, if i can see definate black smoke from behind, then i'll ease off the throttle - simples - not had any overheating problems at all. Plus i haven't tuned the pump to it's full potential, or adjusted the boost pressures, and i'm well happy. Yes they are pricey, and you can get universal ones for a quarter of the price which will give inmprovements. You could even go down the scrappy route, and find one of the biggest you can fit, and plumb it in yourself for not much £££'s. Fit silicone hoses too (if you haven't already, and iirc they come with the allisport kit) as they don't swell under pressure, keeping all that boost heading where it needs to go

My rear body crossmember is rusty - nothing unusual i hear you cry - what options are there? other than £140 on a new one, can i fabricate one from box section? i know it's profiled to fit over the chassis at the back end, and i've got no problems with shaping it to fit, then closing it back in after. otherwise it'll be try and salvage the one of my old disco (which is still quite solid) repair the body mounts (the only bit that has fell off it) and re use that one. thoughts and suggestions please