disco_al
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Posts posted by disco_al
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will recheck the bearings for him tomorrow - nuts will be tight, i know what he's like for making sure they always are (he's an ex lorry driver)
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naughty naughty - still limit with a trailer is only 50mph regardless......
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slight urgent problem - mate has replace all 4 wheel bearings this weekend, and now has serious vibration at about 30 mph, and he say it feels like it's crabbing all over the road - he needs it for work (self employed - no car now work)
any ideas on what the problem could be? over tight bearings maybe?
all bushes have been replacd recently with new blue poly's (not the cheap ones either) new shocks n springs as well.
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been there, done that
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i've always preferred the tdi's - but after driving my brothers TD5 (before and after remapping) i'm converted - would love one myself - if you do go for the TD5, get the silicone hoses, a remap and a decent intercooler - you won't be disappointed
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hmm, i'd want a couple of mods in that chavalier first, like a bracket to hold the battery down, or better still a sealed box to put it in - don't like the idea of having a battery that close in a banger racer
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haven't heard of GOGGLE, is that a new search engine??
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Right, here's a good one. Mates 90 has developed a bit of a rear steering issue.
Everything underneath has been changed - new springs, shocks, bushes, track rods, A frame ball joint & bushes have been changed as well. It's on a Terrafirma medium duty setup, with castor corrected hockey sticks, and corrected trailing arms as well.
But - it's crabbing. The best description i can give is that it feels like it's turning again half way through a corner, but not all the time - if that makes sense. Example, your followng a constant radius curve in the road, so the wheel is at a particular angle, then halfway round, the vehicle moves, and you have to correct the steering.
Following him down the road, you can see that it's crabbing, but on level ground, everything measures up ok, so it only appears under load.
The only thing left to change now is the panhard rod bushes, would those make such a large difference if they've gone soft? (It was fitted with orange polybushes throughout - but now has the harder blue ones from Bearmach installed - apart from the panhard rod) We do have a RTC steering damper to fit, but i don't think that it will alter the way things are feeling.
It's not wheel/tyre related either, as he has tried it with one set of wheels with worn tyres, and another set with virtually new tyres on < 500 miles on them.
Any ideas oh wonderful forum guru's????
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what about bung the gutter up each end, then pour some warm clear waxoyl in? that should flow into the gaps, set to form a seal, and be flexible, plus it won't affect the paint finish.
have heard of it being done with disco's before, especially at the back of the roof where the 3 panels meet. have personally tried captain tolley, and it did run into the gaps, and also out of the bottom to leave some rather awkward to remove stains down the paintwork
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"I want to leave a couple of live wires there but i'm told its going too far. "
or a moisture sensitive contact switch that sets off a screaming siren.......or better still a tannoy speaker
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Now, on my blue disco that's having a "refurb", the heater has always posed me a puzzler.
Basically when i got it, some kind "technician" had cut the supply wire to the heater relay, and fed a live feed from the fusebox so that the blower works. The air recirculation button has never done anything, neither has the air con button.
So far i have replaced with known working units (from my old disco)
Heater motor (old one worked ok, but thought i'd change it anyway - just in case)
Wiring from motor to control panel
Air recir and air con switches
Fuse box and MFU
However, upon powering up the ignition (with the dash out) nothing works, not even the blower control.
Any ideas are welcomed, i haven't had time to check with multimeter yet due to it being rather wet outside, and not having any cover to work under
although as stated, i know the replacements work -
don't forget to get a P gasket as well.....
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got straight through pipe and rear box from paddocks for about £40 i think (2-3 years ago now though)
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good write up - but, does sound like a potential HFH "accident" in the making......
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from what i've read, about 5-600kg in the shell with the trim in it. may strip the seats out of the blue one (leccy leather, so quite heavy) as well as anything else.
may have been better removing it before the rust repairs - all those weight saving rust holes
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i'm using 235/85/16 bfg at's without a camel cut, and not suffering from any rear end rubbing problems
that's with bearmach HD rear springs all round. they do catch on the n/s radius arm though, so stop needs tweaking a bit -
Sills were my initial thought as well. But then my brother pointed out that the A/B pillars from part of the safety cell, and so should be strong enough.
we'll be testing the roof lift theory on my old disco first, which is being scrapped (as it's donating it's chassis), if it doesn't work, we'll use the sill method for the shell that needs to be saved, as really after opinions from people about the best/easiest method really.
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In the next 6 weeks or so, i'm planning to swap my 98 disco 1 body onto a better chassis (off my 94)
Now i've done some googling and not really found a definitive answer on how best to lift the body.
Various opinions have appeared, including lift it slowly, add spacers between body and chassis then strong timbers across the sills (with some more timber to spread the weight away from the sills) and strong timbers through door frames (with slots cut so as to not damaged the seal lips).
What are the best options? I'm personally edging towards the beams through the door apertures. Lifting it is not a problem as i have access to a Merlo telehandler, and we plan to use the 94 body as a "test bed" anyway.
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:( would be a great loss......
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everythings been disconnected for about 2-3 weeks now as i've been welding the A pillars up, so no probs there - air bags are in the boot
so, i should be ok to just unplug the ecu and power up - just wanted to make sure, as i've got to run some accessory circuits behind the dash, and with it removed it's a damn site easier to route them and make sure it all works first.
cheers
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As per title really. I could do with powering up my disco with the dash out to check the electrics. Now obviously the air bags are off, so if i reconnect now, then it'll tnrow a wobbler and put the airbag light on, if i unplug the the airbag ecu, will it be ok to power the ignition accessories up? Heater etc, to test them.
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i'm cleaning mine with flap discs (as mentioned), then a good coat of red oxide on the outside. trying to work out the best way of spraying jenolite or something similar inside the chassis to kill any rust, before plastering it in waxoyl. the outside will hopefully be coated in marine enamel, either black, or a nice dark blue
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i need to source some wheel nuts for the mangels dragon wheels. They are standard 27mm socket size, but the shank that goes into the wheel is thinner than a standard lr nut. They are the same as ones that fit the six spoke compomotive motorsport wheel that were fitted (which are for sale with new bfg muds on, i'll get those in the for sale forum soon)
Any suggestions as to a supplier muchly welcomed
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does anyone know if it would be possible to fit a discovery fuel tank to the back end of a 90?
A friend of mine wants to improve the distance between fill ups and is looking for ideas. I know a td5 tank is an option, but we have a spare disco tank which we would like to use if possible to keep costs down.
It's a 94 model if it helps.
:)
although as stated, i know the replacements work
that's with bearmach HD rear springs all round. they do catch on the n/s radius arm though, so stop needs tweaking a bit
Suspensions issues
in Discovery Forum
Posted
there is a fault that develops with the shuttle valve in the abs unit - i did find a fix for it that doesn't involve disturbing the hydraulics just by googling discovery abs shuttle valve repair - best get it diagnosed first though, could be something completely unrelated....