AndyEvans

I use a drill doctor which works well not cheap though. Will sharpen drill bits upto 12mm easy to use and can shrapen snapped drill bits which saved a fair bit.

Carnt help for the rear door but if I remember correctly there are 2 different types of thread for the front door hinge bolts.

Personally I would weld a large nut to the bolt the heat will help loosen it and it won't create enough heat on the crank to damage the seal as you have a large flywheel as a heat sink. Don't try to undo it straight away as they can sheer off leave it a minute or 2 and make sure you use plenty of power to get enough penetration on the bolt.

you could turn the diff upside down in the axle. would just need 2 new cut out in the axle case flange and a new diff cover to alow the crown wheel clearence.

Timkin are some of the best bearings so no need to worry about quality.

by the looks of them they arnt jic as there is no cone on the threaded part. they could be flat face bsp as they have the o ring grove on the male part. but as said above prob easyest get some air con pipes from a scrappy that fits and use them.

could also try going to a hydraulic engineer and getting either a breather cap or combination filler breather. these alow the air in and out but stops the hydraulic oil getting out.

also can try just turning the cap with a pair of water pump pliers. mine came undone and after straightning the piece on the bottom works perfectly well still.

unless the law has changed since 2007 u can carry upto 40L of petrol in metal jerry cans inside the vehicle legally but garages dont like u doing it.

you carnt remove the starter solenoid on the type of starter used it first engages the starter pinon gear the makes the contacts to power the starter up. as for removing the fuel stop solenoid i carnt really see any point in doing so. if its even possible. if u want to remove as much as possible of the wiring what are u going to do about the oil pressure light and the charging light. both pretty essential really.

a replacement gearbox is not neserceally needed. if u can weld just make the old knackerd splines up with weld and grind so its a tight fit. much cheaper then new box. ive done this and its coverd a gd 30,000 miles and no play in it yet

do u really need to carry all the weight in the back? unless ur going somewhere really remote a rac card or similar imho is better.

shold work. used similar tools but home made before. as has been said put the required cylinder at tdc on the compression stroke and push downwards. take collets out and gently remove the pressure and do what u need to do and repeat to put back together. Andy

yes that is exactly what u have to do. but u may have to gas the old one off as they can seize on there very well.

if its a metal laminated head gasket it could be leaking round that.