monty

another option... is to use Joomla...which is similar to WordPress in that its a Content Management system...you choose a template, create articles and publish...and thats you. I don't think there is much point using HTML editors anymore, but its horses for courses. I use Heart Internet to host our 4x4 clubs website...and they aren't expensive to use. In work we used to recommend FastHosts and 1&1 in the past, but we don't use them anymore. just my 2p worth.

Something similar happened to the wifes 90...from diagnosis it looks as though your Disco is earthing itself through your handbrake cable... check in the engine bay to make sure that your earthing braids are intact as this was the problem ours was having.

i used some cable ties before for a while...before i eventually got a replacement...

I bought my winchrope & aluminium hawse from WinchIt...haven't used it yet....but a couple of others in the club have...1 had the same rope on a Nissan Patrol, which snapped the first time he used it (and wasn't happy about it, as he went flying down a hill in reverse)...he was able to get one from Andy at Ruftraks...and this hasn't broke... I figured that it will be a while before I ever get good enough to do challenge events, so felt I didn't need a D4x4/Ruftrak/Bowrope just yet...but I think it is like everything else in offroading ..you get what you pay for.

a guy in our club has a isuzu vehicross fully coated in it...apart from the roof

thanks, i saw the circuit diagram on the web..but wanted to make sure! turned out to be a very easy job....the hardest part was threading the trailer cable through the bulkhead on the nissan patrol....we even re-used the on,off,on momentary rocker for the power antenna...looks the business. he was chuffed.

Ok, i've been asked to help hardwire up a comeup winch...as its a DS9.5i...the lead has 6 wires (red, white, black, green, yellow, blue)....from what I can ascertain the Red, White and Black wires are the ones that actually control the solenoid to turn the motor. the other 3 (green, yellow, blue) seem to be part of a monitoring module, which i think works off the temperature of the winch.... when we go to hardwire...if we just concentrate on the red, white and black...will this be enough to control the winch from inside the cab?

yip, there was 2 hanging off the alternator i got out of a disco....think i was told the supressor was for the radio or something...

Well he's decided to get an ARB on the back and do a bit of shaft hardening...do you need to uprate the CV joints at the same time as the shafts?

well after a long drawn out saga, we finally got the Landys brakes sorted. what started out as a busted brake nipple turned out to be 1 - Replaced rear drivers wheel cylinder 2 - Replaced brake shoes (as they turned out to be knackered) 3 - Replace rear passenger wheel cylinder 4 - Replaced rear brake pipes up to the T-piece So was 3 trips to the local Landy parts place, bit of playing around with the shoe springs, and some bleeding and its now 100%. Thanks for the diagrams/tutorials Les.. as the Haynes book was useless!

cool...checked and they are only £20 so agree with you..no point taking risks..do i have to do in pairs?

myself and a mate where finishing off with the 90 before MOT, and we replaced the brake lines..so we were bleeding the brakes...started off with the rear passenger one, all went ok..moved to the rear drivers one, and this is were we experienced problems. basically the bleed nipple is busted...the nipple itself is ok, its the thread on the back of the drum. how do i go about fixing this? What comes to mind is to re-tap a bigger thread onto the plate, but then how/where would i get a bigger bleeding nipple. any thoughts or advice are greatly appreciated.

yip, sorry about that...i always leave the important bits out...his is a 300tdi 90, with a 2" lift i think... he is looking to compete in challenge events such as the 3 Peaks, and some of the scottish hill ones...not sure on budget but cheaper is probably better.

I have a mate who is looking to get an unbiased opinion on what type of locker he should get...(as the places he was looking to buy seem to only stock one type). The way he explained it to me was that he has 3 options. 1 - A LSD 2 - ARB Lockers 3 - TrueTrac I know a lot of you have these types, but wanted to know the pro's & con's of each, and what would be a good setup. Thanks ciaran

while looking for hoses a while back, i came across "Mr-Silicone-Hoses" on ebay...do a search. whilst i didn't buy any of the hoses, i thought his prices where great.

i use 10W40 oil in the 90 and my L200.....i have had no problems...i change it every 5000 on both. stay away from the likes of Halfords and stuff, and use the local autoparts places as I was able to get 5l of Shell Helix Plus (semi-synthetic) for £15.01 and a replacement oil filter for £5... this would have been double in halfords...

well, i've come to expect these things with the 90.... will get it sorted soon enough... and then back to playing again.

Well, we found out what was causing the issues....reb78 was right, the clutch slipping was due to the rear crank seal as there was tonnes of oil in the clutch, so it was easier to pull out the engine and give it all a good clean as we wait for the new seal to arrive.

things with this land rover are never simple!! it looks as though i am missing a bolt on the exhaust manifold (how the hell did this happen!!!) and oil is coming out of here and making its way down - so perhaps oil contamination is causing the slippage after all! , does anyone know what size this bolt should be so that I can get one sourced and screwed in! also, if its contaminated, will it need replacing again thanks

will give it a go....hopefully this solves it!!!

i wouldn't class the pedal as being rock hard...to me its just like a normal clutch in that i press it down, select gear and all is ok...its just when driving for about 10 mins, if you accelerate fast, the clutch seems to slip, as the engine revs go up but the 90 doesn't go....so i have to slack off the accelerator until she bites again (at lower revs) and slow increase the acceleration. with regards to the adjustment, what am i trying to achieve? and how will i know i have achieved it...?

Hi, a mechanic mate of mine helped me install a new clutch kit in the 2.5TD 90 (and he now out of the country!!!), and all seemed fine....after about a week or so the clutch started to slip in the higher gears and more so when the engine was warm....my mate suggested that I undo the 6 bolts on a plate near the steering and adjust this to improve it as it may be out.... my question is, can someone give me a step-by-step guide on how to "adjust" this so the clutch stops slipping...or is there something else at fault?

The Armaflex insulation that you have bought...is this the seller "amstoreuk" ? The reason why I ask, is that on the item title, it states 25metres but in the description it is only 1metre...

Good morning, can someone help with the identification and part number for the air take hose that goes from the side of the wing into the air filter box...also does anyone happen to know what I/D of this hose is? Its a 2.5 TD 90 The fabric on the inside of mine has started to come away from the rest of the hose, and as a result the air intake is really limited. Thanks in advance.

there are two types of cat5 (or indeed most network wiring) - stranded and solid.....stranded cable is typically used for patch leads where the cables are likely to me moved around, solid is typically used in infrastucture type jobs, where cables are run in conduits and are not likely to suffer any stress during their lifetime....