Logic

Hello folks I need new suspension for my Defender due to the passenger side sagging, and what look like it could be originals at 100000 miles - I've needed them for a while but couldn't make my mind up whether to stay standard, lower, raise etc. I REALLY like the air suspension on my RR P38a so I'm currently communicating with a supplier to see if they can do air springs for the Defender, but if anyone knows air springs suitable with minimal fabrication then it'd be good to hear. To do this I require to move the front shock outside the spring so would a twin shock turret like in this link do the job - http://www.paddockspares.com/pp/OFF_ROAD/HD_Suspension_Parts/Heavy_Duty_Twin_Shock_Absorber_Turrets_%28pair%29_Galvanised.html . I guess clearance between the shock and airbag could be an issue to look into, but does anyone know of any other issues that would make this not such a good idea? The only Defenders I tend to come across are farm vehicles so I've never seen a twin shock setup fitted, so does the 2nd shock (only one in my case) go to the front or rear of the spring? And also will standard length shocks for a standard, albeit adjustable height be ok as I would prefer to fit OEM shocks. For the questions of 'why do it', well I have a very nice maintenance pit in my garage but the defender is just an inch or two too high so it'd be nice to be able to lower it so I no longer have to work in the wind and rain when things break down - not a nice experience during winter in Orkney (my canvas roof is also getting a severe battering while having to stay outside). Also, most of my useage is on-road so running a bit lower would be nice and also being able to increase pressure to the rears when towing 2.5t+ trailers would be helpful for levelling. If anyone has any pointers then it'd be great to hear, thanks.

Thanks western That's an informative site but I was meaning the vehicle model i.e. can the 4.0 P38 gearbox bolt straight on, or is the gearbox the same but the bellhousing and other bits require changing etc. If all the Rangerover gearbox's would fit with minimal mods it'd be ideal as so many of them were auto's (and also getting broken). I'm hoping for some information so I can go into breakers and know which models I can take from, and be aware what other components I'd need to take specific to the model I'm taking from. I'd guess the discovery TD5 would be the easiest model, but what differences/problems are specific to each model year due to the changes. I know a complete list is unlikely, but to know what models others have used as donors would be a huge help. Thanks

Hi Folks I am finding that I'm not driving my 90 so much now since getting my P38 as I don't really like manual gearbox's - laziness I guess. My Dad is thankfully keeping it excercised for me since his car went off the road, but I would like to consider fitting an auto gearbox as I really enjoy driving it in every other way (especially for towing - a 4.6 V8 isn't so frugal when pulling a 3 tonne load!) Firstly, which other Landrover model gearbox could I look out for which would bolt straight onto the TD5? Second, which model gearbox would fit with a little modification, and what would the mod be? I'm guessing an older hydraulic change gearbox would be easiest, although electrics don't scare me for fitting the later electronic ones. Also, not including the selector positioning and wiring, are there any other components which can cause problems for fitment/that I would need to get hold of? Thanks

My 1996 4.6 P38 on petrol usually gets 14-15mph with a regular 8 mile run split 3 mile town and 5 mile 55mph. This may sound daft, but I've just completed 2 off 220 mile journeys and on the first I was driving for economy at 55mph on cruise control getting 18mph until the last 7 miles where I increased to 75mph (got to dual carraigeway and children started moaning) - I expected the mpg to drop considerably, but instead it increased to 19mpg over that last 7 miles. The next time I did the same journey I set the cruise control to 75mph where I could (due to traffic) and I got 22 mpg. The weather was similar (calm winds) and both were driven with the same stop/break. With my limited mechanical knowledge I'd be guessing that the increased speeds must take the engine into it's sweet spot for better economy - my driving style will now change for this car.

You may be better investing in a pushbike I'm certainly not an expert on these, but from what I'm finding, and I've read on this and other forums then a P38 is not a vehicle to own if you like keeping money in your pocket! Still, it's a very enjoyable toy, and I don't mind playing around trying to keep things tip-top.

Hello I've never had the A/C compressor run since I got the car. A previous car which had climate control would function automatically but only pull in the compressor if the ambient temperature rose above 15 deg C - does the P38 have similar as it's always been cold here since I got it. I know to check the gas pressure etc., but I thought I'd ask before looking for a fault which may or may not be there. Thanks

I've fitted the rear springs now which was fairly easy - just removed wheels for better access. The one thing I forgot was to release the air from the spring BEFORE releasing the bottom from the axle which sent it flying while making a noise like a shotgun going off! I'm surprised I managed to do it while still pressurised, but one learns from his mistakes. I was intending to do the fronts aswell but having a quick glance over it looked like there may have been a bit more to it, and as I had other small jobs to do (spark plugs, straighten bumper etc.) I decided to leave them. I've now looked at microcat which shows the pins in the bottom with a bolt - is this bolt located at the front of the spring? I guess now I know there's a pin there that I may find it easy enough, but if someone could tell me where, then it could save me some hunting. Also, are there any problem area's and quick fixes when changing the fronts, as it looks a bit trickier than the rears. Cheers.

I'm new to the P38 aswell and I find the air suspension nice. When I got it the compressor was barely pumping, the front was rising and dropping when stationary (possibly which driving too), and there were leaks all over the place. What you have to consider is that it is a pressurised air system which relies on seals - and these get old, brittle and deformed, and 1994 to 1997 is old for o-rings if they haven't been sorted previously. Yes at some time they will all go wrong. But if you know which end of a spanner does what then it is relatively easy to sort - and IMO worth sorting. I changed the barrel and seal on the compressor - now compressing well, I changed the seals on the valve block and NRV's (I'd guess at 80 odd o-rings) - front dancing stopped and sorted the leaks! The air bags themselves age aswell and these can be seen by cracking on the bags themselves when the car is at high setting. I just changed the rears on mine today which was a simple enough job - fronts to go which looks slightly more congested. I can't comment on the electrics, but the above appears to be the common ailments. Good luck wih finding your P38. P38 is from 1995 to 2002 (I think) As someone said to me - do it. I'm certainly glad I did!

Well the Gen3's have arrived - but not without some hassle! Anyway, I now have the springs and intend to fit them this weekend. I'm hoping that I notice some sort of difference in the ride quality, but the main thing will be reliable 'stay up' suspension - here's hoping.

Were they not ALL constant 4 wheel drive since the Series landrovers? Difflock and the Viscous Coupling locks the front and rear propshafts to ensure drive to at least one wheel both front and rear. Was there not some Disco's that had the lt230 transfer box but didn't even have a lever to actuate the difflock (think I read that somewhere - I haven't owned a Disco)? I've just got my Defender difflock working after a few years ownership - so I've never had a need for it anyway! So do you NEED to bother with difflock? I actually would prefer a manual difflock on my P38 as then I'd know if it was engaged or not (after reading about all the viscous coupling failures - I must check mine yet). Dennis

p38spares.co.uk is where I've bought mine from, although I'm still waiting for them to arrive (their eBay shop wasn't listing the Gen3's at the time). I also bought new clips as I know from experience that I always lose or break these type of things. The Gen3's are certainly considerably more expensive than the Gen2's, but it was the advertised improved ride at highway height that I'm hoping for. I didn't want to spend money buying Gen2's, then spend the rest of my time wishing/wondering if I should have spent a bit more on the Gen3's! We spend our money and take a chance............ For the shocks, it's interesting to hear a different viewpoint. The one thing I have heard before is that aftermarket shocks often can have a poor lifespan compared to genuine - anybody able to comment from experience?

I've got the paper for the engineers report which doesn't look too serious - providing the engineer thinks the same. I've attached a copy for anyone else to see what's involved in it. The defender is booked in for tomorrow so hopefully it will get a clean bill of health - it does seem like an excess of hastle when other insurers don't ask for it, but then again at least the NFU are checking up BEFORE taking my money rather that others who may check up after an incident and then the struggle for payments ensues.

Thanks Sean When jacking up one front wheel and rotating it, then engaging difflock (first click) it will stop the wheel - I thought this was difflcok engaged. Are you saying that difflock isn't properly engaged at this point? If so, to get it to the second click, is this done by the hand lever, or will the diff pull it on itself in the event of slip? I now have the switch illuminating when the hand lever is pushed to the left - is this correct? Before grinding/thinning the locknut the switch never operated on the difflock first or second click position. I thought I'd leave any pivot post adjustment until I got the nylon bushes, but as asked above should I adjust the pivot to allow the full 'second click' position?

Hi Folks I've finally got round to freeing off my difflock and setting up the dash light switch. The usual linkage was rusted so required freeing off, and I found I still need to replace the plastic bushes on the operating arm as there's too much play. But for the difflock itself I have found the cam moves in three stages - off, on, then a further click on. Is this normal? With a front wheel lifted it will lock at the first 'click', but also stay locked when the cam is moved further by hand from underneath. The gear lever will only move the cam to the first 'click' position - should replacing the plastic bushes enable it to go to the second 'click' position? Then since the dash light didn't illuminate I had the enjoyment of finding and freeing this off. The switch had been screwed right in but it still didn't work. I removed the locknut which gave me enough thread to get the switch working (then ground the locknut down a millimetre and refitted) but I'm concerned that something internal in the transfer box may be wrong as it surely should have activated the switch without me requiring to grind the locknut? I have not yet done any offroad testing of it, just engaging difflock with a wheel off the ground. Does anybody have any idea's if this is normal, or what may be wrong (assuming you can understand what I'm trying to say)? Thanks

Just yesterday I fitted L322 18" wheels as they had good tyres (looks good too) and the tyres my 16" wheels came with kept going soft/had little tread (I previously had the 18" ones on my defender so had the spigot adaptor already). I hadn't really thought of the handling change, so I'll see how things go once I change the shocks - and like you say, since I'm not going for a lift I'll go standard LR. How did you find the 18" wheels affected the ride (I've only done 4 miles since changing)? Was it harsher? Thanks

Thanks for that. I've now ordered them so will look forward to giving the changeout a go. On thinking about suspension, my P38 has done 122000 miles and shocks are recommended to be changed out before 50000 miles. I know the front shocks are likely to have been changed at some point (they are yellow) but the rears look like they may be the originals. If I were to consider changing them (in a month or two) are genuine LR shocks as good as any, or does anyone have any recommendations based on real improvements over genuine LR? Thanks again.

Hi Folks Due to leaks, and general poor condition of my air bags I'm probably going to buy Arnott Gen 3 replacements. I won't likely require the extra articulation they may give, but I do like the idea of a better ride on road. What I'd like to know before ordering though is whether anyone knows if these are a straight swap, or if any modifications are required to fit them? Thanks

That now is a fantastic offer, thank you - I live in Orkney It is my local NFU agent I'm dealing with, and they're currently speaking with the underwriters to find out what they actually want with regards to this engineers report. It was them who said my local MOT garage can do the report (I have in writing by email) so I guess that's where I'll be going. The quote isn't spectacularly good but it does beat last years price, it's just that Sureterm told me last renewal that they wouldn't do 'any over 25' cover which I could do with, just named drivers - the Defender is currently being used by my parents due to their vehicle being off the road, and the recent snowy/icy weather otherwise would have made them housebound (they live close to the back of beyond!) but only my Dad is currently a named driver. Being 34 with clean licence and full NCB means insurance cost is no longer much of an issue, so I'd like to ensure that any of my family can borrow my Defender if required - I have my R/R P38 and also a Yank MPV for daily drives. For the actual mods done, from what has been wrote here I can't say there's likely to be a problem as I've just had the MOT done a month ago, so they must've been happy then - not to mention them also doing the previous MOT aswell as minor repairs, so they know the vehicle. Everything was done by the previous owner (except bulkhead removal) and the jobs look to be done well (I work in heavy engineering so have seen a fair bit of shoddy workmanship) - basically just bolt on mods. Thanks once again for everyones input.

Hi Folks Thanks for the replies. They haven't mentioned what it is that concerns them making them ask for a report, but you've a fair point on the bulkhead bar being structural/major. Also, I'm using the roll bar as seatbelt mounting points which could be a concern to them. It appears this is a pretty standard thing to be asked then so that's fine, and it wouldn't do any harm getting the changes checked over by an independent anyway even for peace of minds sake. Do NFU send a standard form for this report, or does the garage just write a letter confirming (hopefully) their satisfaction all mods are ok? Thanks again for all your inputs.

Hi Folks I've had an insurance quote from the NFU for my 1999 TD5 90 but due to having some minor modifications they are saying I require an engineers report first. I believe in coming clean with all modifications, as a policy is only cheap until you need to claim on it, but I'm only talking about various chequerplate, Disco alloys, GKN Overdrive, A-Bar & Spots, Soft Top with army style roll bar, and the MudStuff bulkhead removal bar - hardly what I would call modifications in need of an engineers report (ok, maybe a bulkhead removal bar and roll bar?). Other than the overdrive, the suspension and drivetrain are standard. Anyway, is this engineers report a usual occurrence for slight mods? Does anyone know what one of these reports entails? I'm told my local MOT garage can do this, but is it something that garages try to avoid? I know I can go with another policy, but NFU are quoting for any over 25 driver which really is handy for me, the others I've tried will only do named drivers. Thanks

I've been back at the cruise control problem, and after removing/checking the brake pedal switch - which was ok - I found the hose perished at the point where it goes through the bulkhead. I've done a temporary repair with emalgamating tape (should be good for holding a vacuum), but when I went a run I still had no cruise control. When trying to activate it I can hear 'clicks' coming from under the dash somewhere. The cruise control 'on' button illuminates when depressed, then I hear a click when pressing 'set'. I hear another click when pressing 'res'. Also, when I've pressed 'set' then press the brake pedal I can hear a 'click'. From all this 'clicks' I figure that the switches must all work (all these 'clicks' sound like a relay or something, not the actual switch operation). Does anybody have any idea's of where to go next? I've had another look at how to remove the passenger rear locking mechanism, and I think I can answer my own question on whether that frame has to come out - and yes, I reckon it does. It actually doesn't look so bad a job, but I'm concerned at what the window will do - should I just tape it in the closed position to stop it falling? Thanks.

Hi Folks After checking out some options for replacing the blend motor as a single unit, I found that Bearmach do one - STC3259A is the part number. It has Valeo marked on the side (unsure if same as original due to the one I'm removing having been previously spliced in) and comes with about 6" of cable for splicing into the original loom. So the outcome is that it now all works fine, and the book warning symbol has disappeared - I'm now a happy chappy! A point that was interesting for people with similar problems is that under the Bearmach sticker is a Valeo no. 509221 - for Peugeot 405 - so that may be another avenue for obtaining replacements? For the rear passenger door switch, I found that the connector had previously been left disconnected presumably during a previous attempt to repair the central locking actuator. So now the light switch works but I'll have to replace the lcok anyway as the lcoking still isn't working. I removed the three torx screws to see if it looked like an easy removal, but no, there must be something else holding it in (I don't yet have a replacement so didn't want to continue incase I broke something)? Also, I wondered if it would be able to come out of the hole there without drilling rivets and removing the internal door frame (unsure of name)? Can anybody confirm what I need to do to swap this lock? I'm off back out to look into this cruise control problem.......... Thanks once again Dennis

That's not something I'd considered, so thanks for the prompt. I'm a bit unsure what to do now as a new set of three motors costs a fair bit. Time for a think................. Thanks once again for all your help. It's really confidence enspiring knowing there's a wealth of willing information out there to keep me/us right. Dennis

Thank you. Ok, so at least I know why I couldn't find a switch. That door also doesn't lock/unlock with the central locking, so maybe I should be looking for a common fault - if it's even connected! Still, I'll now know where to look. I also hadn't considered the switching being done via the BECM, so a high contact resistance would be less critical then, although still a problem. Something to snoop around though...................... Dennis

This'll likely be an easy one 'for those that know' - the passenger rear door doesn't illuminate the interior lights when opened, but I can't find the usual switches as I assumed it'd likely be a dirty connection with this age of vehicle. Can anybody point me in the direction of where the switch is located please? Thanks