Jump to content

ThreePointFive

Settled In
  • Content count

    498
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

6 Neutral

About ThreePointFive

  • Rank
    Old Hand

Contact Methods

  • Website URL
    http://
  • ICQ
    0

Profile Information

  • Location
    UK

Recent Profile Visitors

789 profile views
  1. ThreePointFive

    4.0 GEMS engine swap

    Sill hoping it's ok that my thread is in this part of the forum when there builds tucked away in sub-forums of far more technical importance that improve on Land Rover's design, not just recreating it. So I got very bored of trying to match wiring colours to functions, though I was able to work out I have the correct instrument warning panel plugs. I appear to be missing the plugs for the gauges themselves. Can anyone confirm if PRC7326 is the right harness? I know it would be cheaper to make one as per Retroanaconda's site but at this point I'm not going to make any more DIY wiring if I can help it. My main loom is YMC500870 - so it has to match that. Second question - is there any way to check what a specific harness should have? Googling the part number doesn't give a certain answer on what accessories it should have. Or another way of coming at it, what colour plugs relate to what functions... So, I had another bash as the dashboard. There isn't as much information on the dash conversion as I thought, most threads linked to a reedx.net site that no longer exists. I haven't seen how people have addressed the issues I have worked on, so I am sure there is an easier way to all of this but unless the information can be found, it's no good. Trial fitting/marking out here, you can see the issues: 1. No fittings to secure the middle section to the lower dash. The genuine 2003MY dash has these: So I had to create some anchor points using the extra lokuts I bought. Marking out the positions they should be in, I drilled a hole through to the metal backing and cut away a hole into the foam: Smug mode engaged; job done...It would then have been a 30 minute job. However, for the remaining two holes, there is a slot that runs through the metal backing of the dash at the exact position I needed something solid. B*llocks. I bent up two brackets that could fit the lokut and be rivetted in place. This took far longer than it ever should have. 2. Cutting the dash centre. Seen this done multiple times so fairly straightforward. I thought I could be clever and use the screw holes of the old cig lighter/rear wash panel for the facia, so I put another flavour of lokut in them... Nope. Re-drilled right enough that the screws hold themselves in, cut away the excess ( they fouled the new cig lighter socket position) and covered everything in electrical tape to at least try to prevent abrasion. Fitted everything together... For the 10th time... a common theme when I googled this was a lot of threads ended with a recommendation that Mud consoles do the same job much easier. Having done this now, I have to agree that unless you can buy all of the parts - especially the correct lower dash - it really is a challenge to make it work. However, the ethos of my build is to end up with something that could pass for a factory car, so I am glad I went this way with it. That'll be it for a few weeks, so I hope it's proving entertaining (though probably not useful) to someone.
  2. ThreePointFive

    4.0 GEMS engine swap

    Following Mr Fridges advice, I went on an eBay rampage. I then set about fitting the dash. It was an utter [person I'm not that keen on] with the loom in place, 4 hands would have come in very useful. Here is the loom in place.... Lower dash fitting... The two bolts that hold it in the center of the bulkhead are very difficult to get to with the loom in place, but I couldn't see any way to make it easier as it would be impossible to fit the loom afterwards.There is clearly a technique/sequence I'm not aware of. One is somewhere under the mass wiring here... One thing that made no sense was the order of assembly for the large grommets that go through the bulkhead as they have to fit over the upper lip of the dash panel, so if you have the loom in place, they're preventing it from fitting. Pulling them enough to slip the lip under without pulling the loom through was the only way I could do it. The (half) finished article: You may have noticed the dash lower is not the right one for 2002MY. I am not quite sure how the seller managed to bungle that, but my original was in good condition so having a spare in case the jigsaw gets a bit exciting is no bad thing. For the dash assembly I have gone as far as I can for the moment without a full breakdown for order of assembly. I turned my attention to the wiring.... and now wish I hadnt. This is a TD5 XS loom as I thought I could convert the car to central locking, electric windows, heated seats, etc. It has all the connections for the dash buttons when they go in, so it made sense in my head 5 years ago. I was also able to buy a matching chassis loom, which I thought would be plug and play as an upgrade with the main loom. Exhibit A (it does match): The old loom was a mess after 25 years and 167,000 miles, so the logic was that I'd have to spend money on a new one anyway - might as well be a modern one. This part still makes some sense, as my lights at the rear will be TD5 to match, with a late rear door with 3rd brake light and wash/wipe (all bought). Apart from some fuel tank connections now being at the rear, I can see no mismatches causing trouble. It also gave me the upgrade to blade fuses, because this isn't 1906. Bonus. All good in theory so far, except for the fact looking at TD5 loom diagram here, almost everything I wanted to upgrade is dependent on there being an ECU to tell it what to do. Including the ignition... So I might as well replace the engine with a potato, as it will have the same potential of starting up. I am also missing an under-seat fuse box, which presumably has its own harness that I am also missing. Yes, sometimes my stupidity amazes even me. I'm assuming the ECU should be on the end of this... Anyone able to confirm if I have really backed myself into a corner with 2 harnesses useless to me without suddenly sprouting a masters in electrical engineering and a PhD in not being an idiot?
  3. ThreePointFive

    4.0 GEMS engine swap

    I suppose it's disappointing because I did get some jobs completed but the frustration is that a lot of this will need to be redone. Even fitting the cross member wasn't a final fix as between moving house, I have lost some of the bolts and washers. It wouldn't be a problem but they're very specific lengths and the washers are of course not fully round, so again quite specialised. So now I need to find specs for the bolts and part numbers for the washers to finish this off. The holes are all fine for M10, but my box of parts has a lot of M8 bolts so this is another case where access to Microcat would remove the question mark. The vent flaps are another example, clearly they need painting anyway, but to find out they cannot fit with these seals was a huge annoyance. The chassis loom and fuel pipe location in particular is a job that I'll have to come up with a permanent solution to, so arguably laying it out just to find a route and make sure it clips into the main loom is a pointless exercise. The oil cooler one is tricky.I want to run the cooler as I had terrible heating issues on the 3.5 and from what I understand, lots of P38s died thanks to heat-related head gasket failures. It is just my opinion but anything I can do to allow the system to better control temperature has to be a positive. There is also a huge amount of stubbornness on my part, as I paid for the addition of a cooler into the Allisport rad, so The same thing better work... I have added complexity by doing this, and threads like this don't help. I am not sure the fittings I have bought will adequately redirect oil as that is the sole function of the bits that stop the genuine pipes from fitting. The irony. I have a Gwyn Lewis tank guard that I wanted to fit, underbody protection is something I value and I know it's more for challenge trucks and this car is firmly for gentle off roading, but it's not like running a set of boggers on the way to Tescos. However, I have reconsidered as I don't want to drill the chassis at all if I can help it. So if anyone wants a brand new (but 7 year old) guard like this then I'll be open to reasonable offers. Better, if anyone knows of a good guard that doesn't require drilling, I'd appreciate the advice.
  4. ThreePointFive

    4.0 GEMS engine swap

    So after having my plans for fitting the dash this weekend fall apart, I started the jobs I didn't want to do. Most of this is about getting parts off the shelves and finally onto the car. Last night I fitted a Gwyn Lewis track rod guard. Had it for years but didn't want to arse around with adjusting the bar, so finally bit that particular bullet. It was really straightforward and retaining the ARB mounts on the axle made this 200 million times better. Next I fitted the gearbox cross member. Sounds stupid, but it was...unpleasant. A very tight fit, due in part to being galvanized and painted thickly over that for good measure. Required a jack, a mallet and some persuasion. I'm sure the coating will have suffered, but I am not sure how else it could ever fit. While that was going on, I prepped my old diff guard for paint. Again, not exactly a priority job but it does need doing eventually and it gets one more thing ticked off. The guard is galvanized but was still rusting, and the black helps hide the cringey logo. It was far too cold to be painting, hence the runs but I'd rather that than not enough paint. The cross member drew my attention back to my unfinished work with the routing of the chassis loom and petrol pipes. I'm still in a quandary about this as my 3.5 setup was metal piped. I up-sized the filter because I was advised the EFI-suitable fuel pump would blow the t*ts off the old one, but that meant I lost the mount and housing. I will do my own research on what others have done as I'm sure the information is available. I originally used a method for routing the chassis loom that I have a horrible feeling I learnt from watching Roadkill - large cable the around the chassis leg with a small one to secure the harness itself. I know this looks like insanity, but I was going to replace this once the car is running, at the moment I just want to lay everything out. I've seen the various ways people suggest but most involve drilling, which I'm not prepared to do on this chassis. That said, I need to find a solution ASAP because the tub is due back from the painter sometime next month. I have been trying to find the right oil cooler pipe for this engine, but having bought two more since my last post on that subject, I have given up. The outlets are just too shallow and all the genuine pipes have an inch of pipe extending out from the threaded nut which means it gets nowhere near seating properly. Using a post from Dangerous Doug's build and noting what Fridge has said numerous times about the Freelander fittings, I bought two M22 to 3/8" male-male adaptors in the hope this would give access to far more pipe and fittings options. I have abandoned the motorsports ones I previously discussed as I think I can make my own for a fifth of the price. However, I should have checked the inlet/outlet size on the oil cooler itself, because they are also M22... Meaning I have created a bottleneck by reducing to 3/8" . This raises all sorts of questions over oil flow; lowering volume but increasing pressure, etc. I know there is debate over even needing a cooler, but if course limiting flow is a bad move either way. More investigation required. A while ago I ordered the seals for the vent flaps, but somehow Microcat gave what I now know to be the numbers for Series 3 seals. I understand people have swapped to these on Defenders, but I must have a bad batch or something, as they are far too big and the flaps would be under immense pressure if they were closed on them. I will have to revert to standard seals...once I have removed the copious sealant I used to try to make these ones work. Lastly, I have been sorting out the ME loom at the engine side, using Fridge's P clips approach. This is starting to make it look almost manageable and a lot less intimidating, though for me the confusing part is all at the ECU end, so the fun will start when I get there. Still, a huge improvement over how it looked coupled with the main bulkhead loom... All in all a disappointing day, but at least some jobs got ticked off list.
  5. ThreePointFive

    4.0 GEMS engine swap

    You guys are brilliant. It's obvious when you see it done... I had a whole heap (literally over 1000) of reference photos when I took the thing apart, but 8 years and one dead hard drive later, things are a bit fuzzy. The real sh*tter is losing my supply of lokut nut things (what kind of a name is that anyway?) so there is nothing to screw anything onto. Given my plan this weekend was to put the dash in so I can better work out the cable routing, it could be better. Don't suppose anyone has all the part numbers and quantities for all of the ones on a TD5 bulkhead? I should probably mention, my old PC with microcat on it died. Great. Even better, that was my favorite tool for working out which parts go where. In conclusion, all the resources I had for making sure I didn't become a forum pain-in-the-bumhole are now U/S. So here are the photos from where I now am with the four lokuts (honestly, is that a word?) I salvaged from the floorboards that didn't get mangled on extraction. Steve, I hope you mean interesting and not fascinating, in that "cant look away" car-crash sense that a certain other forum member with 14 L322s has mastered...
  6. ThreePointFive

    4.0 GEMS engine swap

    After a year and a half living away from my project (and a house move to get suitable garage space) , I've decided this year is the one to get on with this build. I still have the majority of the hard parts in front of me, but I have a rough plan. So a quick summary: my exhaust has gone back to the supplier as it didn't fit together properly, might be the car's fault but I have asked them to put it on jig and prove or disprove where the wonkey bit is. Wiring is going to be the most complicated part. The MS loom is still an utter mystery/misery to me so the car doesn't start but I'm sure at some point I'll open the garage door and it'll just be finished. I'm not sure left in my hands I will ever get it done. I am trying to build up the bulkhead so it's ready to take the main TD5 loom so I can make the later dash style of buttons work. I have run the chassis loom along the top of the chassis rail, this is also a TD5 one so matches the main loom. Some are has cut all the wires going to the (I assume) ECU, so I am yet to see how I can get power to it and make all the bits work. The current and most pressing problem is the panel that the vent mechanisms are connected to - there doesn't seem to be an agreed name for this so googling has been a real issue. I have put pictures below, but it looks like I am missing some brackets as there is just no way to fix it to the bulkhead. Can anyone confirm if this is the case? Also none of the holes correspond with any holes in the bulkhead, so it is not clear how that will fix. It also looks like it will foul the steering column too support. Is there a difference between early and late TD5 dashes to take the facelift dash? I have seen people fitting these dashes to pre-TD5 cars so it must surely be possible to make this work.... Laslty, vent fly screens.... Is the black plastic blanking plate meant to be on the driver's side? If so, rubbish. Any and all help gratefully received. Mods - understand if this is too limited interest to remain in this section of the forum.
  7. ThreePointFive

    OT. Diesel misfire on a light throttle

    I own an XF and have seen/read/heard of a similar sounding problem but that is a totally different platform and engine... however, they have been known to develop hairline cracks in the plastic inlet manifolds (again, I don't know about the 2.0) and create symptoms exactly as you describe. They are also very difficult to locate. The sensation that best described it for me was as though someone had put a restriction (like a hand) over the air intake or like doing 20mph in 6th gear, before clearing completely as if it never happened. It was quite violent. On the car I know of, it had no fault codes and was otherwise perfect except this intermittent issue, it took a number of visits to the garage to resolve so it was clearly not obvious. Don't know if any of that will help but worth a shot. I also own an X Type (though a petrol V6) and they are great cars.
  8. ThreePointFive

    4.0 GEMS engine swap

    So to finish up the coolant and heater work, I kept thinking about how the restrictor plate seems like the wrong solution for my needs. I will be doing short journeys and the point of this entire build is to build something as usable and reliable as an ordinary car. I don't want to have to consider the length of a journey and how many oil changes I'll need if I drive less than 20 miles, I just want to jump in. So, to that end I dug out a 82 degree thermostat I bought for the 3.5 about 6 years ago and this... ...Is now this. I'd always assumed that there was a reason why this wasn't the first suggestion for getting around the lack of a pig's heart. I assumed one just wouldn't fit. Turns out thinking doesn't always get you anywhere. The last pipework issue remains the oil cooler pipes. I have 50th Anniversary pipes that don't fit the engine but at least the routing should be right (it isn't). We know that Freelander fittings fit in the engine ports and by basic logic P38 pipes must fit too - but the routing won't be right. So, given that I can buy £40ish more just to get some fittings from some RR pipes I'll then have to throw away, to then get them put onto my 50th pipes (that due to the amount of fixed tube look like they don't even fit in the engine bay) by a hydraulics shop that doesn't actually seem to exist in my area, at even more cost in their time and my fuel, adding to the £30ish I already have sunk on this.... I'll be working on £100 minimum by the time this whole deal is sorted out to end up with pipes that East Coast Rovers seem to think are inherently not good. http://eastcoastrover.com/110oillines.html The best solution is to find out the thread size of the M22 fittings and make up my own pipes using the push-fit stuff here: http://www.demon-tweeks.co.uk/motorsport/push-on-hose-fittings No mythical hydraulics shop, no fires, no wasted pipe, just proper, braided hose that's actually worth the money even though it will work out slightly more expensive overall. Long, boring post maybe, but I'm writing this because I hope it will be of use to someone else in a few years' time having to work on the exact same problem and coming up with the same questions. It's the information I'd have wanted starting out 5 years ago. Another message for this FutureMan of the internet - don't get anything made bespoke. Off-the-shelf parts are fine but it seems like getting an exhaust/radiator/whatever involves several hundred unanswered emails and phonecalls to try to give them your business, then explanations of what you actually want followed by visits because despite the professional-quality design drawings and pictures you KNOW they didn't understand/write down/remember what you wanted, then several missed deadlines, broken promises and failed attempts to give them your money before you finally get a product that you then have to introduce to a mallet/hammer/hacksaw to make work because they assumed their generic product would fit despite your instructions that it would not. Note that this does not improve as price increases. Also be prepared to sit through several long rants about the economy and how no one supports British manufacturing any more. In light of my experience I assume these were some kind of satirical work of comedy, but I fear they were not.
  9. ThreePointFive

    4.0 MS Install - Questions

    In truth I'm not so worried about the look of the exhaust, It's just not what I'd expected from the descriptions I'd heard of similar systems. If it really bothers me there's always high temp paint, though I've been researching wrapping and ceramic coatings. That said, it seems like both bring their own problems and while under-bonnet temperature is definitely something I'd like to control, I'm not sure that any claimed performance gains are worthwhile on a landbarge like this. Not to mention cost... I was looking forward to the tuning aspect of MS. I'd intended to take it on a dyno to work out exactly what the output is and get the most usable curve from the MS. I'm sure the exhaust and stupid intake will yield a whole 1BHP on their own but I'm not really interested in peak power as I am torque at low revs and making it nice to drive. I remember that Adrian Flux wanted to know the exact increases of any engine mods so it would allow me to kill two birds.
  10. ThreePointFive

    4.0 MS Install - Questions

    Actually not that shiny. I'm not saying I'm disappointed but I thought the point of stainless was that it was... stain...less... Nonetheless, it bolts on to the engine after removal of the knock sensor so now I only have to contend with the Y pipe's apparent desire to terminate in the passenger chassis rail. To sort of qualify my earlier anti-megasquirt comments, there are many factors that made my build less than ideal. It really isn't for beginners like me. It even more so isn't for one that can't do it one go and has time away from it. That said, without this forum I'd be completely screwed. There's a lot of info out there about MS generally but there are so many different applications that not all of the information is relevant. That's why the guys on here doing P38 conversions are unbelievably useful. Oh well. I'm probably the better part of £1.6k into this engine including MS and I don't even know it isn't seized.
  11. ThreePointFive

    4.0 MS Install - Questions

    Well I owe Bowie a beer.
  12. ThreePointFive

    4.0 MS Install - Questions

    Thanks for the help, as always. Moved on to another job, and the giant smack in the balls that is this build continues to supply obstacles at every opportunity. Knock sensor - do I need it? Does MS use it? Is it just a case of smacking the fitting flush like a butcher or is there an easy way to blank it off? Meanwhile, on the other side... Bought a full system from Double S exhausts, I know they're a well known brand around here. Until I have the knock sensor dealt with, none of it will line up properly. Still have to finish the loom, place the ECU in a suitable box, sort out the standard wiring to the starter, finish the fuel pipe routing away from the manifold and anywhere that's going to rub... then I'm almost ready to fire it up for the first time. Megasquirt is not for people like me.
  13. ThreePointFive

    4.0 GEMS engine swap

    I don't know if this thread is better off being moved, initially I placed it here because it has cross-model influences but is likely now to become a more general build thread. Also the proliferation of 4.0 builds done much better than my own may limit usefulness to other users. So, in dealing with a few challenges of fitting the 4.0, I've come up with a few solutions of varying quality. First, heating pipes. I've decided not to blank these until I get the running sorted as that's just delaying the work. I've routed one pipe around the back of the engine and along the inside of the rocker cover edge, using a standard hose barb to connect it up. This would be pipe 10 in the above diagram. It doesn't have too many tight bends and avoids anything hot or turny. The other side is largely the same but as the connection to the engine is at a tricky angle, I decided to reuse the metal heater pipe and pre-formed 90 degree hose from my old engine as it was able to handle the bend back on itself far better. Again, this keeps the route away from exhausts and pulleys. This would be pipe 4 on the diagram. I don't like the look as to me it has a home made aesthetic, but it at least isn't kinked to buggery. Possibly "wrong" is how I've treated pipe 8. You can see it in the photo below, going from just above the last heater hose to the front right, where it goes to the radiator, next to the expansion tank pipe. Possibly this isn't where that wants to go, hopefully anyone with a better idea can chime in.
  14. ThreePointFive

    4.0 MS Install - Questions

    This is the problem with buying an engine that came with almost every pipe cut or entirely missing, can't tell what goes where without consulting diagrams that don't always match up with what I have in front of me. So that implies there is a corresponding port on the crankcase...
  15. ThreePointFive

    4.0 MS Install - Questions

    Have indeed! I did initially have it T-connected into the MAP pipe but looking to use a redundant plenum outlet further up (centre of photo below) seemed like a clean solution...until the point I offered up the pipe and it became clear it would never fit. I'll have to think about that one.
×

Important Information

We use cookies to ensure you get the best experience. By using our website you agree to our Cookie Policy