ThreePointFive

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About ThreePointFive

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  1. I own an XF and have seen/read/heard of a similar sounding problem but that is a totally different platform and engine... however, they have been known to develop hairline cracks in the plastic inlet manifolds (again, I don't know about the 2.0) and create symptoms exactly as you describe. They are also very difficult to locate. The sensation that best described it for me was as though someone had put a restriction (like a hand) over the air intake or like doing 20mph in 6th gear, before clearing completely as if it never happened. It was quite violent. On the car I know of, it had no fault codes and was otherwise perfect except this intermittent issue, it took a number of visits to the garage to resolve so it was clearly not obvious. Don't know if any of that will help but worth a shot. I also own an X Type (though a petrol V6) and they are great cars.
  2. So to finish up the coolant and heater work, I kept thinking about how the restrictor plate seems like the wrong solution for my needs. I will be doing short journeys and the point of this entire build is to build something as usable and reliable as an ordinary car. I don't want to have to consider the length of a journey and how many oil changes I'll need if I drive less than 20 miles, I just want to jump in. So, to that end I dug out a 82 degree thermostat I bought for the 3.5 about 6 years ago and this... ...Is now this. I'd always assumed that there was a reason why this wasn't the first suggestion for getting around the lack of a pig's heart. I assumed one just wouldn't fit. Turns out thinking doesn't always get you anywhere. The last pipework issue remains the oil cooler pipes. I have 50th Anniversary pipes that don't fit the engine but at least the routing should be right (it isn't). We know that Freelander fittings fit in the engine ports and by basic logic P38 pipes must fit too - but the routing won't be right. So, given that I can buy £40ish more just to get some fittings from some RR pipes I'll then have to throw away, to then get them put onto my 50th pipes (that due to the amount of fixed tube look like they don't even fit in the engine bay) by a hydraulics shop that doesn't actually seem to exist in my area, at even more cost in their time and my fuel, adding to the £30ish I already have sunk on this.... I'll be working on £100 minimum by the time this whole deal is sorted out to end up with pipes that East Coast Rovers seem to think are inherently not good. http://eastcoastrover.com/110oillines.html The best solution is to find out the thread size of the M22 fittings and make up my own pipes using the push-fit stuff here: http://www.demon-tweeks.co.uk/motorsport/push-on-hose-fittings No mythical hydraulics shop, no fires, no wasted pipe, just proper, braided hose that's actually worth the money even though it will work out slightly more expensive overall. Long, boring post maybe, but I'm writing this because I hope it will be of use to someone else in a few years' time having to work on the exact same problem and coming up with the same questions. It's the information I'd have wanted starting out 5 years ago. Another message for this FutureMan of the internet - don't get anything made bespoke. Off-the-shelf parts are fine but it seems like getting an exhaust/radiator/whatever involves several hundred unanswered emails and phonecalls to try to give them your business, then explanations of what you actually want followed by visits because despite the professional-quality design drawings and pictures you KNOW they didn't understand/write down/remember what you wanted, then several missed deadlines, broken promises and failed attempts to give them your money before you finally get a product that you then have to introduce to a mallet/hammer/hacksaw to make work because they assumed their generic product would fit despite your instructions that it would not. Note that this does not improve as price increases. Also be prepared to sit through several long rants about the economy and how no one supports British manufacturing any more. In light of my experience I assume these were some kind of satirical work of comedy, but I fear they were not.
  3. In truth I'm not so worried about the look of the exhaust, It's just not what I'd expected from the descriptions I'd heard of similar systems. If it really bothers me there's always high temp paint, though I've been researching wrapping and ceramic coatings. That said, it seems like both bring their own problems and while under-bonnet temperature is definitely something I'd like to control, I'm not sure that any claimed performance gains are worthwhile on a landbarge like this. Not to mention cost... I was looking forward to the tuning aspect of MS. I'd intended to take it on a dyno to work out exactly what the output is and get the most usable curve from the MS. I'm sure the exhaust and stupid intake will yield a whole 1BHP on their own but I'm not really interested in peak power as I am torque at low revs and making it nice to drive. I remember that Adrian Flux wanted to know the exact increases of any engine mods so it would allow me to kill two birds.
  4. Actually not that shiny. I'm not saying I'm disappointed but I thought the point of stainless was that it was... stain...less... Nonetheless, it bolts on to the engine after removal of the knock sensor so now I only have to contend with the Y pipe's apparent desire to terminate in the passenger chassis rail. To sort of qualify my earlier anti-megasquirt comments, there are many factors that made my build less than ideal. It really isn't for beginners like me. It even more so isn't for one that can't do it one go and has time away from it. That said, without this forum I'd be completely screwed. There's a lot of info out there about MS generally but there are so many different applications that not all of the information is relevant. That's why the guys on here doing P38 conversions are unbelievably useful. Oh well. I'm probably the better part of £1.6k into this engine including MS and I don't even know it isn't seized.
  5. Well I owe Bowie a beer.
  6. Thanks for the help, as always. Moved on to another job, and the giant smack in the balls that is this build continues to supply obstacles at every opportunity. Knock sensor - do I need it? Does MS use it? Is it just a case of smacking the fitting flush like a butcher or is there an easy way to blank it off? Meanwhile, on the other side... Bought a full system from Double S exhausts, I know they're a well known brand around here. Until I have the knock sensor dealt with, none of it will line up properly. Still have to finish the loom, place the ECU in a suitable box, sort out the standard wiring to the starter, finish the fuel pipe routing away from the manifold and anywhere that's going to rub... then I'm almost ready to fire it up for the first time. Megasquirt is not for people like me.
  7. I don't know if this thread is better off being moved, initially I placed it here because it has cross-model influences but is likely now to become a more general build thread. Also the proliferation of 4.0 builds done much better than my own may limit usefulness to other users. So, in dealing with a few challenges of fitting the 4.0, I've come up with a few solutions of varying quality. First, heating pipes. I've decided not to blank these until I get the running sorted as that's just delaying the work. I've routed one pipe around the back of the engine and along the inside of the rocker cover edge, using a standard hose barb to connect it up. This would be pipe 10 in the above diagram. It doesn't have too many tight bends and avoids anything hot or turny. The other side is largely the same but as the connection to the engine is at a tricky angle, I decided to reuse the metal heater pipe and pre-formed 90 degree hose from my old engine as it was able to handle the bend back on itself far better. Again, this keeps the route away from exhausts and pulleys. This would be pipe 4 on the diagram. I don't like the look as to me it has a home made aesthetic, but it at least isn't kinked to buggery. Possibly "wrong" is how I've treated pipe 8. You can see it in the photo below, going from just above the last heater hose to the front right, where it goes to the radiator, next to the expansion tank pipe. Possibly this isn't where that wants to go, hopefully anyone with a better idea can chime in.
  8. This is the problem with buying an engine that came with almost every pipe cut or entirely missing, can't tell what goes where without consulting diagrams that don't always match up with what I have in front of me. So that implies there is a corresponding port on the crankcase...
  9. Have indeed! I did initially have it T-connected into the MAP pipe but looking to use a redundant plenum outlet further up (centre of photo below) seemed like a clean solution...until the point I offered up the pipe and it became clear it would never fit. I'll have to think about that one.
  10. So if the FPR is the PRV.... Wish I'd worked that out before I posted. Thanks for the help, I guess it must be like trying to teach a monkey astrophysics. So here is a picture of what I've got, minus the weird disc thing on the inlet rail. FPR sitting in there somewhere... Filter idea not at all stolen from Fridge's build...
  11. Having problems uploading pictures from mobile, but the bit I was referring to is the one in FFs last photo. I was operating under the impression that is the pressure regulator and the thing on the nearside rear of the plenum is the relief valve. Seems yet again I've made a tit of myself. Regardless, do I need that thing, because it's going to be a tad challenging to refit. Thanks for the help, anyway.
  12. I found the page. Its not on the return line as I'd guessed from memory but that is the nut I removed about two years ago following my interpretation of that instruction and the only one I had anywhere near that location. There is no other way to connect the regulator so I'm a little concerned now. I'm sure there's something glaringly obvious as to how I've misinterpreted it, but at the moment I can't see what else it would be talking about.
  13. Evening all, I've searched and found no definitive answer to this: do I need a Fuel Pressure Regulator? That is to say, the disc-looking chap that sits at the end of the fuel rail on the return line? All results I can find are talking (normally at cross purposes) about the Pressure Relief Valve, which is not the same thing. I was certain from Nige's manual that it says to cut off the nut that secures it to the rail (but in my version it doesn't actually explicitly say what the nut is for, though there is only one so not hard to work out). I was confident in this until I saw that Mr Fridge's build has it installed. Also noted on Fridge's build and something I like the idea of is the in-line filter on the return line to see quantity/quality of fuel going through but I need to find out where I stand on the regulator before I make any more changes to the fuel system.
  14. Oddly enough I have been reading your 'bigger shed' thread and have a much better understanding. I realise I'm covering old ground with my questions though. I want to use the oil cooler because A) I feel a lot more comfortable knowing every aspect of cooling is being taken care of, and B) I have an oil cooler on the Allisport rad and I'm determined to make use of it. I know there is plenty of evidence that its not essential and clearly you've found no problems without, but I'm pretty stubborn and all the bits are there. If I can get fittings in the right thread I'll be able to get somewhere with the pipes I've bought (after presumably making friends with somewhere that deals with hydraulic hoses). Onwards and upwards....
  15. So almost two years on, still grinding through this project. Apart from essentially every aspect of the MS system (which I wish I'd never started but that is a different issue), the things proving the biggest difficulty are the various pipes. Owing to the differences in the engine from the 3.5 to the 4.0 I can fully appreciate a mismatch but it seems there are differences depending from which vehicle the 4.0 was sourced. I don't just mean the location of the PAS pump, but things like the thread/hole size for the oil cooler pipes. We are talking about a company that used one door handle or one indicator design found across four or five different makes (thank you British Leyland) but it seems when it came to an engine that was basically unchanged for 2,000 years, they suddenly got all bespoke and you have to know which day of which month it was made on and the name of the firstborn of the guy that bolted the heads on to be sure if you have the right pin for the throttle linkage. I've foolishly spent a whole £20 on the pair of oil cooler pipes that are meant to fit the 4.0 Defender (anticipating that the routing might be different but I can at least use the ends) but no, they don't even screw in let alone fit around the steering pump etc. Long story short, i need pipes to suit a P38 4.0 from (I believe) 1996, going to Allisport radiator - just to complicate matters further because that was definitely a good idea... While I gained the knowledge of what goes where and what needs to be blanked from the previous posts, the issue of threads etc was not foreseeable and I'm not exactly sure how I can find which fittings will definitely fit without buying every version for every 4.0 model... Any help appreciated