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ThreePointFive

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ThreePointFive last won the day on August 31

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About ThreePointFive

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  1. Ralph, thanks - I saw that but I've never heard of Hobson Industries and I am wary of setting up yet another account with yet another company to order just one item. Stephen - That looks and sounds perfect. I would rather buy from someone on here than a business I've never heard of. Let me know how much, is PayPal ok for you?
  2. That's right, I just started this part number request with the part number I'm looking for. I guess you could say I'm a bit of a maverick. The problem is, this part number is now obsolete and I cannot find if it has been superseded. After an hour's Googling I can safely say I am out. I even ordered said part from a supplier only to be refunded my cash the next morning with an apologetic email. So, now I look to you, Gods of Microcat. Please tell me If there is another PN I should be looking for. If this fails, is there a way to look up the length, I/D, bend radius, fitting spec, etc and have one made with accuracy?
  3. Abso-fcking-lutely, this thread was already getting on for 45 pages of baseless speculation before we somehow even got into the Daily Mail columnist debate on Civil Servants and the performance of a Main Battle Tank. Now we're judging the new Defender by the way people in the marketing look?! 😂😂 The way that 'off road enthusiasts' in general and Land Rover enthusiasts in specific look and behave is one reason if I'm discussing my build with anyone in real conversation, I avoid drawing myself as being such. I'm just someone that likes Land Rovers, but not part of the Land Rover 'community'. Short of having a bowie knife strapped to their leg (in case of sudden jungle), a sheep under one arm, a hay bail under the other and a 'One Life, Live It' T-shirt, what exactly would people here have been happy with? Most people work in offices. Livestock in that environment is frowned upon. I wouldn't say I look like a Land Rover person and definitely not like someone that spends every free minute in the garage, but then I'm quite proud of that. You don't have to wear your hobbies on your sleeve. Let's be honest, most on here own a Land Rover because we wanted one, not needed one. They are a hobby. What's the alternative? A permanently-affixed pair of cammo trousers and a leather Brokeback Mountain hat? Pretty sure I saw a pair of the former in the video... Fact is, we can analyse every second of every promo video and get increasingly angry about it, or accept marketing is marketing and they might actually be trying to show the new Defender is for everyone? Sounds like some sort of a sales strategy to me.... Until someone you trust buys one and shows you what it can do, nothing is going to matter. I remember when the TD5 was seen as the most complicated, worst thing to ever happen to the Defender, and now they're holding their value well as an alternative to the TDCIs. The Land Rover 'community' is nothing if not fluid in its beliefs.
  4. That is what I hoped, thanks a lot - from the angle I'm at it looks like there isn't much room left for it to travel once I depress it, but I'm not in a rush to drop the box so I think I can make an informed decision on this one. Thanks for the responses and education (your site is also massively useful for my build at the moment).
  5. So perhaps this is where my lack of experience with this comes in, but surely it would have some resistance? I cannot stress just how little effort it takes to press it back into the housing, I would have thought the clutch itself pushes back.... I am working on the assumption fork pressed back at the slave cylinder end = clutch depressed.
  6. Let's play another game of "is it F'ed?". When replacing the clutch slave cylinder, the rod and plastic bracket came out together. Seems a common issue, so I did my research and found a way to refit without taking the gearbox off. However, this is my first time seeing the clutch fork as someone else bolted the engine and gearbox in place for me. It doesn't seem right. Under light pressure, the fork will retract into the bellhousing - surely it's meant to return to the front position? That made it difficult to ensure the rod engages with the slave cylinder. It's also very wobbly. Videos for a slightly more objective description, apologies that they are so large. 20190826_142822_002.mp4 20190826_142822_003.mp4 If this is gearbox out, I am going to be extremely annoyed.
  7. I really like it. Seen a lot worse perpetrated for a lot more money by people who should know better and offer themselves up as experts in our field. A sensible paint job with a bit of relatively hidden chassis art doesn't hurt at all. None of these mods have compromised it's ability off road. In the pursuit of a road-friendly status symbol so many of these end up with a silhouette that looks right but has as much of what makes it a Defender as possible sucked out of it. Not here, it seems. Do I want to do it? No, but I respect it's right to exist.
  8. Good day All, looking at the grey headlining I bought over 5 years ago now for my rebuild, despite it having been dry-stored and unused, it could do with a refresh before fitting. Having been in a TDCI with all the options boxes ticked (a dangerous thing to have done), I now want a black headlining. I've looked at Alcantara/suede fabric which would be simple enough to apply with spray adhesive and patience, but in searching for that I have come across some flocking kits that seem to do the same job. Does anyone have any experience with either method? I can see that the fabric will be the more robust solution and last longer, but be heavier so make the headlining more inclined to sag, as we as being harder to get a professional-quality result. However, the flocking will be lighter and easier to apply, but almost certainly shed fibres over time. I acknowledge this is on the 'tart's handbag' end of the scale and should be left for forums where people talk about a pair of £350 billet aluminum door handles as though they are discussing fine wine or watches, but I automatically cannot respect their opinions, so it would be pointless to ask them. Thoughts?
  9. Had a bash at addressing some of the points raised. It's still not perfect, but until the car is running I can't judge the success of damping the vibrations. This is a complete bodge, I've clearly got Project Binky aspirations with Roadkill levels of reality, but it is made of parts I have lying around and any way you look at it, is better than what I started with. Let's just remind ourselves what that looked like... https://s411.photobucket.com/user/WoodyV8/media/DSC_0695_zpsuuuez5ut.jpg.html I had some exhaust bushes lying around so I cut the smaller ends off... (Yes, this is the bodge....) Rather than put these on the engine side, I wanted to keep that bolted more securely though I doubt it makes too much difference where the flexibility goes. So The benefits of this are that it pushes the filter out from the HT leads and gives more clearance for the inlet pipe (when fitted). An unexpected benefit is that by moving the filter more towards the bulkhead, there is more space on top of the bellhousing which means the drain no longer fouls on it and can be more vertical. I am surprised by how rigid the assembly remains despite losing this additional contact point, so I don't think it requires additional support from underneath. I predict a great deal of sucking of teeth/bemusement by those that understand these things far better than I, but I've enjoyed thinking through the problem and coming up with something that meets most of my criteria.
  10. Ed, that's incredibly generous of you, I'll have another weld-free bash and see if I can do much to resolve it myself but I may well take that up - I will supply the bits though, can't have you using your supply of scra... stuff.
  11. Valid observations, thanks. If I had a welder, I would definitely be welding a V-shaped bracket to the underside of the filter housing to support it from underneath, with some sort of rubber foot onto the bellhousing, or a two-piece ali strap around it to secure everything properly. As I say, at the moment the drain is in contact with this, so not ideal. But then, I don't have a welder. This has given me idea for Mk. II so I will see what I can do on the vibration front. Last thing I want to do is invite stress fractures or something hideous, though I suspect the brackets would just bend as you say. The original setup is made for a tank by the looks of things and we all know that Land Rover don't fit anything expensive unless it serves a purpose...
  12. 😖 You certainly did, several times. I clearly read what I thought you were saying - it's a couple of small screws - rather than the all important "self tapping". I will recover the old ones and be a bit braver with the ratchet once I had a suitable socket as per Ralph's post. Thank you both for the help, despite my stupidity
  13. Hi Western, thanks for doing that, appreciated. Is this from the TD5-onwards stalk controls or earlier though?
  14. No further forward with this one, unfortunately. All the new switches (inc. mine) are supplied without the screw and nothing I had fits. It doesn't actually appear that the hole is even threaded as far as you can see down, so unsure how it even secures. Not really sure what else I can do....
  15. Ed, thanks. So I had a look at this to get it sorted once and for all, I don't want to have to re-do this once I get the thing running. I had three criteria - 1. Keep it simple for maintence 2. Keep it looking at least reasonably factory 3. Don't create anything that is going to put increased strain on other components The V8 air filter is at the back of the engine in this space, so I wanted to use it. I noted that the four 3/8" bolts for the engine lifting brackets aren't doing a lot. These will be my mounting points (there are of course 6 but ignore that...). Using these points, I didn't need the standard mount plate that everything bolts to on a 300TDi. Annoying as it was expensive, but it is easily the heaviest single component. Anyone need an unused 300TDi filter bracket mounting plate? I'll knock a third off.. I created a bottom strap out of ali that spans the valley and joins the lower-inner two 3/8s bolts. To use this, the whole filter assembly (as per my last post) has to be rotated 90 degrees so the "feet" now point towards the radiator. This is for a number of reasons, not least because having the intake pointing down would put it too close to the top of the bellhousing and give no option to fit a pipe to the wing and I don't think that location would aid longevity if left as-is. Using the two filter brackets, the bottom bolt holes are drilled in the middle of this strap, so the whole thing sits roughly central to the car. To secure the top of the brackets, another strap links them together and a strap each side secures this to the upper-inner 3/8s mounting holes. This keeps the bottom and top of the brackets in line and stops forward-backwards motion. This all looks something like this: Upside down, but you get what I'm doing: Perhaps looking a bit too homemade, but I am not a fabricator and don't have access to welding equipment. This was given some enable matt black paint just so it didn't stand out in the engine by, not that the finish lasted very long on assembly. Next, fitting... This raised the next problem - it sits at a funny angle because the location pin doesn't like being pushed to the side... predictable but I wanted to avoid messing with it. A hole was drilled to where it now wanted to emerge, but this required the M6 nut through the bracket to be cut down to prevent conflict... That does make it very sturdy though, it doesn't want to move in any axis. The end result looks quite good in my opinion: I hate the blue pipe. It will be going. The downside to all this is that there isn't enough room below the mount for the drain valve to clear the bellhousing. It is sat on top of it and not vertical. However, it is the lowest part of the filter housing by a long way so should still function. So I haven't really posted this as a "how to". I have put it up mostly so that anyone more inclined for fabrication and engineering can tell me how bad an idea this is and what could be done to make it better. The drain being the obvious thing (how happy will rubber be sitting on a hot bellhousing?), but could it also put a lot of strain on the rear of the head having this weight hanging on it, is it going to vibrate to buggery now there's not one piece of rubber to dampen vibrations or do something else I haven't thought of? Another downside is that the whole lot has to be removed to take out the filter housing, but the filter can actually be changed in-situ. The benefit to this location is that it does clear the HT leads and everything else I can see, it also gives me the option to mount the inlet pipe either side. My car is going to have the wings from both 200 and 300TDis so I have vents on both sides, and the inner vent moulding is ambidextrous so it can be swapped between whichever I want. I am still thinking driver's side as I have a snorkel for this side already as I prefer the look on that side... I hate myself for that being a deciding factor. So, feedback - good or less than good - welcome.
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