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ThreePointFive

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ThreePointFive last won the day on May 27

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About ThreePointFive

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  1. That's why I'd be ok with it in the garage. At least it has half a chance of telling me where the f&^%ing 10mm socket is.
  2. @Retroanaconda If you do decide to go with the Echo Dot, I have one I got free with another purchase. I can't use it in the house and I'm sorted for the garage, so happy to send it your way as a thank you for the savings in time and effort your excellent site has given me. It is a lowly Gen 2 though, no idea what the difference is between that and a 3.
  3. If you're running the standard 4.0 coils, would you mind taking a photo or two of how you've wired them up? I've got the same setup and translating it from the more normal Ford packs is difficult. As yours is running, it would be a huge help if I can see how it's done.
  4. I have a 5.1 surround sound home cinema kit that used to be on my PC when I had a fixed tower. It's all up in the eaves so I have one speaker in each corner and a sub woofer on top of a storage unit. The input is via 3.5mm jack, so no Bluetooth or patchy connections. I stream music from my phone, which in turn is connected to the house wifi. You can get these systems for £50 for a fairly decent sounding one and the benefit to so many speakers is that you don't have to have it up loud as you'll be near a speaker no matter where you are. This was an important consideration for me as: a. I have neighbours b. I like terrible music The cable runs for those systems tend to be fairly long too as they are designed for wide separation, which means you'll have plenty to go around - though admittedly mine did need some extending because of how I routed it. On the more general subject of garage entertainment, I also have a old TV and Xbox so I can watch youtube or Motor Trend and teach myself things as I'm doing it, or, far more usefully, blow up diagrams to see what goes where without dragging a laptop around greasy/smashy things. Worth it even in a tiny garage like mine. One to consider while you're thinking about these things.
  5. Maverik, Stupidest question of the week... is this meant to work with the factory non-latching front screen or the latching rear screen switch? I've had no luck but plenty of blown fuses trying to make this work.
  6. Really Mildly miffed off with the ECU now so I am going to look at the spark situation so I get something productive done. This was my working for which one goes where, please try to find fault with this. It takes a little bit of lateral thinking but I can't prove myself wrong so I don't think this is the problem. The 4.0 GEMS coils connect to a plug that looks like this (with the two coils they each control in red based on the information below): This is the RAVE diagram as Elbekko provided on page one of this thread: To translate that to MS, you take the EDIS plug and look at the coils each pin controls: Which relates to these cylinders: So you end up with these numbers: EDIS pin 8 -> GEMS pin 1 EDIS pin 9 -> GEMS pin 4 EDIS pin 11 -> GEMS pin 2 EDIS pin 12 -> GEMS pin And you get those pins from the wiring colours, which I have done. So unless my GEMS plug was wired incorrectly by the factory, the WU/WB/WY/WK wiring colours should tell me exactly which is which. I know I'm asking a lot of effort for no one else's gain in all this.
  7. Stumped. The relay works if I switch it around to be the main relay. The fuel pump works if I just give it power without the relay. There is power getting to the D37 plug pin. The ECU clearly can still give a fuel pump working signal. This has to be an ECU issue, doesn't it? There is nothing physically wrong with the wiring if the pump works when powered, so I don't see how it can be anything else.
  8. Thanks both. For the moment I don't have the mental capacity to try to get spark while the fuel pump isn't chooching so going to focus on that. Stim fools the ECU to show the fuel pump working, I assume it can only do that by sending the signal through the right pin so my ECU can't be fully hooped if that's the case? Going to go at it fresh tomorrow.
  9. I thought we were on to something there, so I changed out the relays for brand new ones - no change. Checked the feed stays live while it's cranking - it does. And now the fuel pump won't prime. It's not the relay as sticking an earth on the right pin makes the pump work. It's the forking ECU. This is getting really frustrating. I cannot locate what's changed, the ECU is still live, Pin 37 on the D37 plug is getting power and talks to the laptop. So what could this be now? And I still haven't got anywhere near sorting out the spark.
  10. I thought it might be worth reviving this after a call to Nigel suggested I post up about an issue we can't diagnose - no spark. I called him to buy a new EDIS because I thought I'd ruled out almost everything else, he believes it is the coils and that someone on here might know if I have cocked up the wiring of that. However, on trying to gather info to post up about that I think I've found some weird behaviour. Fridge has also been helping me come on leaps and bounds with MS, but I can't abuse his help and I have reached the extent of my understanding. So first thing - everything is wired in properly according to the MS manual's diagram with the following exception that my relays are wired up as per this diagram below. The way the coils are powered is the same as the MS manual, with a purple/white wire from the fuel pump relay and EDIS for the other four wires. On ignition, my fuel pump primes and powers off, the main relay gets power, the ECU is live and the injectors click. I get 14 volts to the middle pin on the EDIS. Measuring at the plug to the coils, i'm getting the following on the white/purple wire: 20200514_201422.mp4 As you can see, 13.something volts when on ignition, then dropping to 10v while cranking until a certain point when it all seems to drop off. Here is the pin for the brown/green wire to the same plug: 20200514_201843.mp4 As you can see, 3.5v while on ignition and then all over the place while cranking but low (or negative) numbers. I assume none of this is correct? Sorry about the video sizes.
  11. Sorry Mo, that's what I meant to include for the first time in an opening post... Yes it's a 2002MY TD5 dash/loom. I think you've nailed it, that makes a lot of sense. I'll check the wiring diagrams to confirm but very hopeful.
  12. Everyone loves these, so I'll apologise for being guilty yet again. Trying to sort out the wiring behind the dash facia and I've finally come to identifying a bundle of cables that comes from the stereo connector but doesn't seem to do anything. Two are power and earth for the stereo (pink and black) but there is about 1.5m of cabling I cannot find on any of the wiring diagrams. The electrical reference book just shows the standard stereo connector without this coming off it. Any ide as? It is connected through this plug (pink and black) and the stereo connector, and you can see two other connectors (blue and black) that don't have anywhere to connect to in the dash area: Ends in this connector: At first i thought it must be for some powered aerial type thing, but it won't fit through any of the grommets into the engine bay...
  13. If that's where I'm thinking of, it's not! They've had quite vitriolic rants about "true" Defender ownership and these are now dubbed The Pretender. Ironic really, given the rest of the threads are "how much is my Defender worth" or "is a Defender an investment". Luckily the market is answering the latter question....
  14. Thanks Maverick, that changes a few things on my layout but now it's blowing the fuse on the ignition-switched positive feeds. I'm starting to suspect the switch hasn't survived the previous attempts so have ordered another. If that doesn't solve it, I will build the harness again from scratch using your diagram from the start this time.
  15. I've updated my list since you quoted it, so you might want to refresh and make sure you have the last version. I was going by what you have in the photo, it looks complete from memory but allow for some doubt. If it doesn't look like it fits logically the way I've described or something seems missing, it probably is. The tubing is the convoluted tube that you have stuck on the end of one of the demister vents and the other one loose in the photo. Those pretty much go on as one piece (per pair) but you want to make sure you can see they're fully engaged. If you have the wheelboxes to do, I would start with those then the rest of the list.
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