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About ThreePointFive

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  1. I really like it. Seen a lot worse perpetrated for a lot more money by people who should know better and offer themselves up as experts in our field. A sensible paint job with a bit of relatively hidden chassis art doesn't hurt at all. None of these mods have compromised it's ability off road. In the pursuit of a road-friendly status symbol so many of these end up with a silhouette that looks right but has as much of what makes it a Defender as possible sucked out of it. Not here, it seems. Do I want to do it? No, but I respect it's right to exist.
  2. Good day All, looking at the grey headlining I bought over 5 years ago now for my rebuild, despite it having been dry-stored and unused, it could do with a refresh before fitting. Having been in a TDCI with all the options boxes ticked (a dangerous thing to have done), I now want a black headlining. I've looked at Alcantara/suede fabric which would be simple enough to apply with spray adhesive and patience, but in searching for that I have come across some flocking kits that seem to do the same job. Does anyone have any experience with either method? I can see that the fabric will be the more robust solution and last longer, but be heavier so make the headlining more inclined to sag, as we as being harder to get a professional-quality result. However, the flocking will be lighter and easier to apply, but almost certainly shed fibres over time. I acknowledge this is on the 'tart's handbag' end of the scale and should be left for forums where people talk about a pair of £350 billet aluminum door handles as though they are discussing fine wine or watches, but I automatically cannot respect their opinions, so it would be pointless to ask them. Thoughts?
  3. Had a bash at addressing some of the points raised. It's still not perfect, but until the car is running I can't judge the success of damping the vibrations. This is a complete bodge, I've clearly got Project Binky aspirations with Roadkill levels of reality, but it is made of parts I have lying around and any way you look at it, is better than what I started with. Let's just remind ourselves what that looked like... https://s411.photobucket.com/user/WoodyV8/media/DSC_0695_zpsuuuez5ut.jpg.html I had some exhaust bushes lying around so I cut the smaller ends off... (Yes, this is the bodge....) Rather than put these on the engine side, I wanted to keep that bolted more securely though I doubt it makes too much difference where the flexibility goes. So The benefits of this are that it pushes the filter out from the HT leads and gives more clearance for the inlet pipe (when fitted). An unexpected benefit is that by moving the filter more towards the bulkhead, there is more space on top of the bellhousing which means the drain no longer fouls on it and can be more vertical. I am surprised by how rigid the assembly remains despite losing this additional contact point, so I don't think it requires additional support from underneath. I predict a great deal of sucking of teeth/bemusement by those that understand these things far better than I, but I've enjoyed thinking through the problem and coming up with something that meets most of my criteria.
  4. Ed, that's incredibly generous of you, I'll have another weld-free bash and see if I can do much to resolve it myself but I may well take that up - I will supply the bits though, can't have you using your supply of scra... stuff.
  5. Valid observations, thanks. If I had a welder, I would definitely be welding a V-shaped bracket to the underside of the filter housing to support it from underneath, with some sort of rubber foot onto the bellhousing, or a two-piece ali strap around it to secure everything properly. As I say, at the moment the drain is in contact with this, so not ideal. But then, I don't have a welder. This has given me idea for Mk. II so I will see what I can do on the vibration front. Last thing I want to do is invite stress fractures or something hideous, though I suspect the brackets would just bend as you say. The original setup is made for a tank by the looks of things and we all know that Land Rover don't fit anything expensive unless it serves a purpose...
  6. 😖 You certainly did, several times. I clearly read what I thought you were saying - it's a couple of small screws - rather than the all important "self tapping". I will recover the old ones and be a bit braver with the ratchet once I had a suitable socket as per Ralph's post. Thank you both for the help, despite my stupidity
  7. Hi Western, thanks for doing that, appreciated. Is this from the TD5-onwards stalk controls or earlier though?
  8. No further forward with this one, unfortunately. All the new switches (inc. mine) are supplied without the screw and nothing I had fits. It doesn't actually appear that the hole is even threaded as far as you can see down, so unsure how it even secures. Not really sure what else I can do....
  9. Ed, thanks. So I had a look at this to get it sorted once and for all, I don't want to have to re-do this once I get the thing running. I had three criteria - 1. Keep it simple for maintence 2. Keep it looking at least reasonably factory 3. Don't create anything that is going to put increased strain on other components The V8 air filter is at the back of the engine in this space, so I wanted to use it. I noted that the four 3/8" bolts for the engine lifting brackets aren't doing a lot. These will be my mounting points (there are of course 6 but ignore that...). Using these points, I didn't need the standard mount plate that everything bolts to on a 300TDi. Annoying as it was expensive, but it is easily the heaviest single component. Anyone need an unused 300TDi filter bracket mounting plate? I'll knock a third off.. I created a bottom strap out of ali that spans the valley and joins the lower-inner two 3/8s bolts. To use this, the whole filter assembly (as per my last post) has to be rotated 90 degrees so the "feet" now point towards the radiator. This is for a number of reasons, not least because having the intake pointing down would put it too close to the top of the bellhousing and give no option to fit a pipe to the wing and I don't think that location would aid longevity if left as-is. Using the two filter brackets, the bottom bolt holes are drilled in the middle of this strap, so the whole thing sits roughly central to the car. To secure the top of the brackets, another strap links them together and a strap each side secures this to the upper-inner 3/8s mounting holes. This keeps the bottom and top of the brackets in line and stops forward-backwards motion. This all looks something like this: Upside down, but you get what I'm doing: Perhaps looking a bit too homemade, but I am not a fabricator and don't have access to welding equipment. This was given some enable matt black paint just so it didn't stand out in the engine by, not that the finish lasted very long on assembly. Next, fitting... This raised the next problem - it sits at a funny angle because the location pin doesn't like being pushed to the side... predictable but I wanted to avoid messing with it. A hole was drilled to where it now wanted to emerge, but this required the M6 nut through the bracket to be cut down to prevent conflict... That does make it very sturdy though, it doesn't want to move in any axis. The end result looks quite good in my opinion: I hate the blue pipe. It will be going. The downside to all this is that there isn't enough room below the mount for the drain valve to clear the bellhousing. It is sat on top of it and not vertical. However, it is the lowest part of the filter housing by a long way so should still function. So I haven't really posted this as a "how to". I have put it up mostly so that anyone more inclined for fabrication and engineering can tell me how bad an idea this is and what could be done to make it better. The drain being the obvious thing (how happy will rubber be sitting on a hot bellhousing?), but could it also put a lot of strain on the rear of the head having this weight hanging on it, is it going to vibrate to buggery now there's not one piece of rubber to dampen vibrations or do something else I haven't thought of? Another downside is that the whole lot has to be removed to take out the filter housing, but the filter can actually be changed in-situ. The benefit to this location is that it does clear the HT leads and everything else I can see, it also gives me the option to mount the inlet pipe either side. My car is going to have the wings from both 200 and 300TDis so I have vents on both sides, and the inner vent moulding is ambidextrous so it can be swapped between whichever I want. I am still thinking driver's side as I have a snorkel for this side already as I prefer the look on that side... I hate myself for that being a deciding factor. So, feedback - good or less than good - welcome.
  10. i'm replacing an old style switch with new to match a late Td5 wiring loom, hence only the old one to use as a reference - those are something like a 6.5mm bolt (I guess imperial, but who has time to look up the conversion...) If I can't buy the right ones, I will have to try to find the right size screw, though this is going to risk messing up the threads on my new switches.
  11. Thanks - Mine definitely arrived with no fixings, but I will see which ones fit in my pile of screws if they aren't meant to be a tiny bolt of some kind.
  12. Hi, looking for part numbers for the fixings that keep the wash/wipe switch attached to the indicator assembly. The switch itself is AMR6106R fixing to AMR6105R. NOT the right switches for these part numbers, but showing the 3 fixings i am talking about... Please note that these do not fit, I have tried. None of the Microcat-derived diagrams I can see even acknowledge there are fixings there. Any help appreciated.
  13. Thread revival time.... In the process of re-doing a number of jobs that i thought were done, such as the air cleaner. I did have a ebay one that looked like it was for a Corsa, and while it would have been fine to get it running, I was putting off the inevitable. I want to try to fit the 300TDi filter in a semi-factory looking position. Can anyone confirm that this is the correct set-up for the filter/brackets/mount? It might sound stupid, but there are very few photos online actually showing the way it fits together. If it is correct, is there any reason why the inlet must point downwards? I can move the cap so the drain points downwards no matter what orientation the main can is in, so filing off the stud that keeps the inlet down will allow me to position it horizontally (or upwards). The arrows on the cap and main filter housing indicate they are quite keen it is lined up specifically this way, if there is some engineering reason why it must all be this way around, I will try to work with that limitation. Bought this all fairly cheaply so not too worried about cutting things to work. If anyone is wondering, the mount and brackets are both Britpart and came with terrible paint issues. One even seemed to have been re-touched using a rattle can. What the hell is going on at that company?
  14. I own an XF and have seen/read/heard of a similar sounding problem but that is a totally different platform and engine... however, they have been known to develop hairline cracks in the plastic inlet manifolds (again, I don't know about the 2.0) and create symptoms exactly as you describe. They are also very difficult to locate. The sensation that best described it for me was as though someone had put a restriction (like a hand) over the air intake or like doing 20mph in 6th gear, before clearing completely as if it never happened. It was quite violent. On the car I know of, it had no fault codes and was otherwise perfect except this intermittent issue, it took a number of visits to the garage to resolve so it was clearly not obvious. Don't know if any of that will help but worth a shot. I also own an X Type (though a petrol V6) and they are great cars.
  15. In truth I'm not so worried about the look of the exhaust, It's just not what I'd expected from the descriptions I'd heard of similar systems. If it really bothers me there's always high temp paint, though I've been researching wrapping and ceramic coatings. That said, it seems like both bring their own problems and while under-bonnet temperature is definitely something I'd like to control, I'm not sure that any claimed performance gains are worthwhile on a landbarge like this. Not to mention cost... I was looking forward to the tuning aspect of MS. I'd intended to take it on a dyno to work out exactly what the output is and get the most usable curve from the MS. I'm sure the exhaust and stupid intake will yield a whole 1BHP on their own but I'm not really interested in peak power as I am torque at low revs and making it nice to drive. I remember that Adrian Flux wanted to know the exact increases of any engine mods so it would allow me to kill two birds.
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