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ThreePointFive

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ThreePointFive last won the day on August 17

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About ThreePointFive

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    Four Point Oh No

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  1. Forget all this tyre nonesense, I want to know what you are bodging and then selling (top photo). For what it's worth, I think you're making the right decision by removing it. If there was a serious accident, driver visibility is one of the first things looked at.
  2. I like it, definitely need to see more photos. At least it's not just a boggo 2.2 sheep in wolf's clothing. You'll get those that don't think a Defender is proper unless there's bailer twine holding a door closed and at least three different types of brake caliper of varying serviceability. A bit of variety doesn't hurt the forum.
  3. Sorry to go OT, but what colour is this 90? I shamefully have one Britpart wing and it's fine.
  4. Had a break from this as it's destroying my enthusiasm. Bought a borescope so I could take a look inside the cylinders, used it to find TDC rather than use a piston stop as I can't buy one that will work (they're all for chainsaws) and I don't want to make one. Created a pretty crappy but accurate degree marking on the pulley so hopefully I've eliminated all the error that might be making the problem worse - though I don't think I've found the cause. The indicator wire isn't touching the pulley, it's just close enough to be accurate when viewed from different angles. I also painted t
  5. Yeah I have had the inners fitted for a while to hold things needed to run the engine. When I try to fit the outer/top with the inners fixed on the chassis none of those top 4 bolt holes line up. I just can't win!
  6. I also heard all of the Spectres weren't road legal, but never heard why - does anyone know? Type approval with those tyres perhaps? It would be interesting to see why these are viewed/labelled as the ultimate Defender, but I suspect I'd get depressed. Those copies don't expressely say they're copies/replicas anywhere on the advert that I saw. Labelling it as a Spectre Edition is flat out implying it's something it isn't in my view. I know there's some obvious bits that a movie car wouldn't have, but if you were looking at it at face value of what they're calling it.... dodgy.
  7. Thanks for the responses. So the consensus is not to fit the wings until after the doors? In that case, I might as well do the roof and screen first too as surely they'll be even more reliant on the bulkhead being right. The tub is in and was a fight on its own due to the chassis being asymetrical, that's why I wanted to preserve the good tub-bulkhead alignment I have by pure chance. I'l have to wait for the doors to come back from the paint shop and then do them, it would just be nice to crack on with the bodywork I have, especially as there's all the wiring to go through the wings that
  8. I am trying to put the bodywork on the front end of the 90 but nothing seems to want to fit. I know we make jokes about the panel gaps on Defenders but this really is stupid. Installing the wing as one piece (inner, outer and front panel/wingtop) means the whole thing is twisting when bolted to the chassis. Installing the inner wings first and then the rest second means the holes in the top of the inner wings don't line up with the wings themselves, but would otherwise fit fine. I can't have the wings align to both the chassis and themselves at the same time. I also have problems wit
  9. As much as I have experienced that myself, I have to agree with Snagger. Getting away at the lights in a straight line against people who may or may not even be trying is one thing. Add corners and the Defender just falls apart in comparison*. Even mid range hot hatches are doing 0-60 in 5 seconds and have suspension setups that make 90's sports cars look like horsedrawn carts. There's a whole industry around this 'fast Defender' thing, but the vehicle loses so much of what makes it a Defender to make it what it was never intended to be and the end product is always at the mercy of very a
  10. Despite having changed all the values it's still doing the same thing. As making it richer hasn't worked, I have to assume it needs to be leaner but when I looked at the spark plugs they had very slightly started to go white. Also some cylinders appear to be getting hotter quicker, though not by much time. I also don't have the ability to see/modify any AFR tables. Perhaps this ties in with the different values I have on the tables, maybe some poor version? I can't just keep randomly typing in values, so I am thoroughly stuck. Could it be something wrong with the physical timing of t
  11. I altered the required fuel setting here from 15.4 to 20, didn't seem to effect anything. Still ended up with red manifolds after a minute. When I change this, nothing seems to alter on the fuel table - it shows the same values as before. I'm going into the tables to enter the values manually as per screenshots Keely sent, but it looks like even his TS is different, I have less granularity in the rev range - mine is 1500/2000/2500 where his is 1600/2000/2300/2700 so I can't set as precise values. Also, this is the error when I try to load his .msq file: I'm
  12. Looking at Keely's map, mine is leaner across the board. I don't want to keep running it if I'm doing damage but if I don't run it, I'll never get there. There's some error when I try to just load his tune (it seems to think he's on MS2 and won't load the values over) so I'll have to manually copy them now.
  13. No cats, it never had them and now on a full SS system.
  14. Running for a few more minutes, I now have red hot glowing exhaust manifolds. I shut it off as soon as I saw it and then ran once more with some advance on the spark, same again. Too lean or timing itself wrong? I have been running the old map pre-new camshaft as discussing it with Keely, it was better to change less factors at once and we knew it ran. Seems like I need to change that immediately. Unless anyone has any other ideas.
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