Jump to content


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


ThreePointFive last won the day on August 3

ThreePointFive had the most liked content!

Community Reputation

113 Excellent

About ThreePointFive

  • Rank
    Four Point Oh No

Contact Methods

  • Website URL
  • ICQ

Profile Information

  • Location

Recent Profile Visitors

1,154 profile views
  1. Yep...………………………………………………...
  2. I thought it would be due diligence to take a look at them, given the problem I'm having with No.3? If it gives me reliability, I'm happy to strip the whole thing down as I am tired of having to revisit this engine.
  3. This move benefits Ineos, there is no indication that benefit will be passed to the customer. So it could be just as expensive and built outside Britain.
  4. That is of course the real point, the number of "made in [not Britain]" Stickers on LR Genuine parts proves that these were multinational products for decades. I have to look up BMW part numbers for connectors on my TD5 harnesses... I suppose it is that final bolting together in the UK that I was grasping onto, and for that to go... Well, I'm just disappointed it won't be thought of as the British engineering success I really wanted it to be.
  5. If the Grenadier is made abroad it will undermine all of the vehicle's intent as a spiritual successor to the Land Rover. Given that a major reason why the Defender was ceased was it's high production cost/low profit margin, Ineos's main USP was (to me at least) showing a British utility vehicle could be a commercially viable product and widely exportable. The whole point is two fingers up at LR to show what they could have done. When we bemoan that "Britain don't make nothing no more", it is decisions like this that cause it. They are making a conscious decision to walk away from British manufacturing. I predict this will be an unpopular opinion as it seems Ineos can do no wrong, but we wouldn't/havent forgiven JLR for the same behavior with Slovakian production lines.
  6. I'll be investing in those then. I need a valve spring compressor, I've googled but it's not clear which ones work with an RV8 and the forum posts about ones that do seem to talk a lot about design flaws and weaknesses with them. Are there any other specialist tools I need?
  7. I am now at the point I should have been on Friday night, and the heads are off. Quick Product review: These bolt extractor sockets are great, I could have got al the bolts out without drilling anything, now I have a lot of clearing of swarf to do. They bite the bolt and the harder you pull, the more they grip. This 3/8" breaker bar that I bought to use with those sockets, however, lasted 20 minutes from the time of delivery to looking like this: That is the one downside to the extractors, 3/8" is a weird size and I don't have anything else that's not 1/2", and as they are designed for stuck bolts you are clearly going to be exerting high torque through them, but 3/8" bars are too weedy. I ran out and got the last one from Halfords as I didn't want to write another day off, and that lasted. I have been kicking myself over allowing the bolts to round out on me. To have more than half go, I was sure it was something I was doing. Using those extractors (and breaking the breaker bar) I can now appreciate the ridiculous tightness they were under. It's hard to exaggerate, the engine was lifting/sliding all over the place on the stand just trying to get the force through the bar. In the end I used an old steering column tube I have lying around, and even then it was still pretty tough and that added about 1m of leverage... I can't believe the thread weren't stripped out on the heads. The must have been held in with some compound, as there was a pretty disgusting stench each time I got a bolt out, like whatever it was had decomposed. Even with the extractors it wasn't easy as the end bolts sit in their holes that are just big enough to take the socket but they perfectly lock it in place on its flats against the sides of the valve housing, intake runner and the end of the head so you can't turn it. Some modification with an angle grinder later... So having felt like a clown all weekend for failing at something that should have been easy, I now don't feel too bad about it. So, on to the damage assessment. I won't give any comments here so you can make up your own minds. Driver's side: Water is from the head as I removed it (and the rust was dragged in to the cylinder at the same time). Passenger side: Only comments I will add - the damage to the gasket on the driver's side may have been caused when the head slid off as the last bolt was removed (I needed 3 hands). I am not sure. The passenger side is much 'cleaner' than the driver's. The carbon in the cylinders is denser and more ingrained, a far amount of the passenger side has wiped off. While I'm at it, I did drop the sump but not much to report yet. A few bits of sludge were in the bottom (not really photoed), unsure what the yardstick is for acceptable/bad but it was difficult to photograph properly. I will say, a very strong magnet got very little result, if it is metallic, it's not steel at least. Doesn't show much, but the colour of the underside: Is there any easy way to assess bottom end things without massive deconstruction, or is it just a case of getting it apart?
  8. I had a set of those when I was initially stripping the car in 2010 and could never get them to work, I probably had a cheap set though. I've tried drilling all morning and I'm getting nowhere, again I might have carp drill bits but they just don't bite. I'm going to try an extractor socket set (arriving tomorrow) but if that doesn't work I'm going to take it to the place that did my exhaust stud when that sheared off as I have completely run out of patience with it. This engine is a constant ball ache.
  9. I should have mentioned, it was 4 bolts on one head. I have since tried the other head and now have 4 more. It must be too late to try an impact gun now, and drilling 8 bolts reliably without hitting the block and ruining threads is highly unlikely.
  10. Thanks, I'll give it a go. Really disheartening when I had a weekend planned out, but I guess that's Land Rovers.
  11. Believe it or not, that's exactly what I did! Even down to ruining my 6-point socket. I've spent the rest of the evening sulking taking apart and assessing the rockers. I think it's two new shafts due to some fairly significant groves along each one, but I can't tell with the rockers themselves. They have scored the underside of the shaft, which you can see in the rockers themselves, but it is fairly minor. Most of the grime came off with a good dose of brake cleaner on a rag (the above is the result) and there were few big particles of anything, what was there was definitely carbon. Then I just cleaned it up with degreaser and a scotch pad. So new springs, two new shafts and a rocker to replace the one with the gored out hole?
  12. I am really not looking forward to trying to drill them out, being large bolts and very hard. I feel for so many to go wrong, it must be something I'm doing wrong with technique but it's undoing a bolt, how can I get that wrong?! Still, by the fourth I'll probably be really good at it.
  13. Yep, and I thought mine would be different for some reason. Had a whole weekend planned and now I'm going to have to try every technique for removing bolts that doesn't involve heat (unless a heat gun counts....) or welding. You know, the ones that never work.
  • Create New...

Important Information

We use cookies to ensure you get the best experience. By using our website you agree to our Cookie Policy