ThreePointFive

Dramatic photos. No shortage of 'Inshallah' by that dude sitting on the ledge. Also, I think that's the best summary of an XC90 I've ever read. A lot of people do not understand their cars strengths and weaknesses, particularly SUV owners. You can tell who they are when it snows here and they find out. Someone somewhere thinks their Nissan X Trail is better off road than a Defender because they once drove through a wet National Trust car park. You just know it.

Well, I am fairly certain that while running between an off road event and getting supplies for people, I had a Grenadier driver wave at me. I would like to say I deliberately ignored them out of brand loyalty but really I didn't see it until too late to respond. I probably would if it occurs again. Is this a "thing"?

Now sorted. I did still have a feed coming through the speedo, I hadn't looked closely enough at the wiring diagram to see it goes out on the 'S' wire via the speedo, not in on the positive feed. In retrospect that makes a lot of sense. Bypassing that part of the loom went straight to the sender, and it immediately worked. But the point of posting this remains, if you have a TD5 gauge conversion wired 'properly' you'll never get a real temperature reading. It'll look like you do, which only makes it worse. Interestingly my car runs cold a lot of the time, somewhere arount 78 degrees. I have the 76 degree thermostat, which seems a bit low now. Of course it does get up to 90ish when off roading or idling, but generally runs much lower. I'll need to modify my warm up enrichment in Megasquirt to ensure it's not over fueling, but I know these engines are meant to run in the mid 80s-90s more happily and this is a bit low.

I'm more shocked that people can get enthusiastic about Toyotas.

What an awful idea, badly executed. What is it with social media people running engines without air filters? That Furious Driving berk is currently ruining his 4.6 doing just this.

I changed the complete set to TD5 ones, speedo is correct and the fuel gauge is reasonably accurate so I haven't needed to modify that. You may have just pointed out my problem then - I didn't realise the temp gauge went through the speedo, I thought it was a straight positive feed. So in short, I need to put in a new 12v feed from the fuse box and see if that solves it. Fridge, hold off on the resistors...

Legend. I have shorted it and the needle does move, so now need to work on the temp being displayed. Explain like I'm five, though - what's the best selection of values? 38.47 ohms is 100c and 50 is 197.29, would that be enough?

Sorry Jeremy, my poor attempt at humour. Interesting stuff that they're pursuing this though, not sure if it's a departure from their mission statement or a way to broaden the business to make the core product (Grenadier) more viable.

Because INFE (see above), this continues. I have finally been able to get the sender out and replace with a standard temporary one (threw my old one away when fitting new, like an idiot). The sender is the correct part number for the gauge, so there's no obvious win there. I have been given a table to check the resistance against by chucking it in a cup of just-boiled water. I think it's roughly where it should be, which is not what I wanted to find out. Is there any easy way to test te gauge isn't at fault? I'm thinking of rigging a very simple circuit up to the alternator but it's effort and I don't know if there's any easy way to check that others know?

Those are outstanding, how great to have this kind of content on the forum.

That's what I was referring to with "hi lift". 🙂

Would you get enough swing on the handle for a hi lift underneath? Unless you're attacking from the top... I found liberal application of grease helped slide mine back in. So to speak.

I get the idea that more "stuff" = more "stuff" to go wrong, but even in an overlanding situation I can't see how your radio or heated rear screen breaking is going to leave you stranded. The only windows I've ever had go u/s were manual winders.... I'd rather have comforts for even a short while than not at all. The idea of a completely stripped out car for the sake of it just seems unnecessary to me.

Seems they're still doing that, in a fashion:

That video can't be right, where's the loud clicking noises that you can't track down? 😡

I was going to say it's not cheap, but surely even a cosmetic restoration plus vehicle cost can't leave much out of 12k.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/156095880825

I did hijack one of Nak's threads last year with a couple of single DIN alternatives with bigger/double DIN screen sizes I'd tried. I don't know if it was all that useful or interesting but I did end up with a decent enough screen.

Brilliant stuff, loved the fun poking at the forum experts.

What's the mpg?

I have a 1.2 and it takes a pretty steep hill to slow it down. If anything I wish I had a 6th gear on the motorway. Do you 1.4s not find it difficult for cruising?

I do enjoy it when people do very hard tasks like fitting a third axle, all the mounts and chassis modifications, extending the bodywork etc. then they go full Can't Be Arsed mode on the last hurdle.

I've seen Discos driving around in a less finished/roadworthy state than that. Not quite as shiny or straight though.

My first thought was that it looked like LGT.

Interesting, the Snatch ones mounted via the bull bar, never seen this kind of mount. Not sure I like it but I guess it's function over form.