ThreePointFive

You and half the country. 4x4 Tyres has them as backorder-only for qty over 1.

Just one thought, how original/complete is the car? It sounds like a factory V8 (assuming station wagon, haven't seen any photos). Prices for completely standard factory V8s are some of the highest (accounting for age and mileage) so before making anything too permanent, you might want to consider ways forward. They're not quite collectors items yet, but the more that get modified, the closer we get. I'm all for doing what you want with your own car, but I try not too think about how much value I wiped off mine.

This is an experiment I am currently running. I don't know when I'll be publishing the results but I'll be sure to update the forum.

I bought my 4.0 for £600 then spent well over 2k on it chasing my clicking. It was absolutely not worth it.

But at their earliest, you're talking about vehicles separated by 6 years. 2020 is 36 years on. Of course it moved on since then. .....I wish this thread would.

That's the first Ibex I've not liked.

Contact your bank and whatever equivalent of Action Fraud you have. Edit: wait, if you haven't received the cheque then how have you fallen for it?

It could be interesting in any case. Most of the advice I've seen or read is to go at it with new parts until the clicking stops.

I found my engine doesn't care much about missing leads. This sounds like a good thing except it makes diagnosing rough running very difficult. I had one hanging fully off the plug lying on the exhaust manifold, only difference it made was.... a loud ticking noise. What I'm saying is don't worry too much about how well it runs without leads. Either way you're finding problems that won't help and need to be fixed.

I have standard Puma heated XS seats, I always think I should upgrade them but they just work. Interestingly the TD5 ones used to give me terrible lower back ache but these are fine for hours on end. Seat covers protect them well. The heating was useful in January, especially worth it for the reactions when informing my fellow off roaders why I wasn't getting out of the car.

Looks good, i like the idea that this gives you a whole load more take off points for accessories without cutting any existing wiring. The single wire through the bulkhead is also good, as I already have far too many additions going through mine. You could turn those direction arrows 90 degrees and have winch in/out control... I wouldn't trust the app though.

Has he seen the cost of copper lately? Don't get your exhaust fixed, I like knowing there's one that sounds rougher than mine running about. Glad you found the cause though.

On the trans tunnel, I used one of the heavy sound deadener insulations (Dodo Mat etc) with a foam insulation mat and then the same kind of stretch fabric as you linked to over the top. I found the carpet to be one of the easiest trimming materials I've used and the foam gives it a decent feel. My foot is constantly against it when I'm not changing gear and it hasn't worn. Everywhere else I used the heavy matting and the normal plastic trim panels and head lining over the top. I wouldn't use fabric anywhere that will get wet. Even if it doesn't rot, it will hold moisture and make the car more prone to steaming up the windows etc.

For a long time I blamed my headers for my ticking noise, in the end I don't think they were the cause but they were not entirely gas tight. There's some general fitment issues with Double S I had to contend with. I had to shape mine with a hammer to make them clear the chassis rail. you won't get headers for less, (I've been quoted over £1k to replace them alone) but there are materials and workmanship issues. Having said all of the above, mine are for sale.

Hate to break it to you, but I think you might already be running Double S headers and you think you have an exhaust leak... These two things may be related.

Usually the V8 guys who have forgotten more than I'll ever know would chime in by now, so I'll offer my probably-wrong opinion. It's probably either a lifter or an exhaust leak. One of those is a lot cheaper than the others, so I would start with any obvious leaks. If not, it might be time to inspect the cam. But to warn you, I've had a similar noise since putting in my 4.0 and nothing has completely solved it. New lifters, top hat cylinder liners, new gaskets, new exhaust manifolds and downpipes. Mine is still the roughest sounding Rover V8 I'm aware of. I will say, the single biggest change was going from aftermarket lifters to genuine, where it became quieter and less of these noises. But it's different to pour in a load of money when you know the history of the engine.

All I hear is the exact same noise mine makes.

Time for an unpopular opinion... I have witnessed people that fit train horns or other 'intimidation' devices are always looking for an excuse to use them, which leads to creating situations. I find the twin TD5 horns are perfect for their only legal purpose; alerting other road users to your presence. They're not a great horn for the old Retribution Honk, but I think that's in its favour. No escalation, everyone gets on with their day. Honking at someone isn't really winning, is it? The roads are a ****ty enough place as it is.

This is really interesting. If the science says the difference isn't in the materials, maybe it's in the interface between them. I.e. everything is contracted in colder weather, clearances become tighter and the torque to break free becomes higher. Add in any rust in the threads and a tight tolerance may become no tolerance. I dunno, I'm neither a scientist nor an engineer, as evidenced by my car.

I've done the above with some high temp sleeving from Merlin Motorsport for bigger cables or those going over the hot components.

That's all I've ever done, any more than that and you're taking the box apart.

I have just installed a Nextbase 222xr, it was very easy to install and the picture clarity is excellent. It's not the cheapest though and I need more usage before I can give any sort of endorsement. It allegedly has parking mode but I've not yet investigated it, noting that if someone is going to steal the car, they've stolen the camera and my access to the recordings. Would be useful for damage, though.

These boxes are loose and noisy, unless it is very loud then I doubt there's anything to worry about. Without hearing it, it's hard to know, it sounds like yours is making different noises to mine. It could be low(er) on oil and the gears are displacing air in some way when they start turning, obviously you can check what level the oil is at very easily, but change it anyway. With regards to it being a pump or not, I've only ever had this box and no mention of a pump so I'll let others chime in here.

My LT85 makes a similar noise to what you're describing, there's a couple of things that are probably going on. It's hard to be exact, but these are options. First thing, the noise is almost certainly present all the time but you're not moving so it's not drowned out by all the other noises. 1. You're hearing the clutch release bearing when it contacts, it's probably fine but if you don't know when it was changed, it may be on the way out. If it's making noise when you're not operating the clutch pedal, it's not the pivot. If you're getting clean gearshifts with no grinding, there's no reason to suspect the master or slave cylinders. 2. More likely, you're hearing the input shaft turning. These boxes are noisy, it's one thing I hate about mine. When I had it reconditioned by Ashcrofts and it was essentially brand new, I could still hear the innards even when turning the shaft by hand; magnify that by whatever rpm the engine is putting through it, and you're going to have noise. I will try to find the video where I recorded the noise they make. It doesn't sound "pump" like to me, just rotating bearings and gears. Does the noise start as soon as the clutch is released and then stay until you put it in gear/drop the clutch again, or does it go away/change? With regards to the oil pump, not something I'm familiar with, but if this noise is new then something has changed which means either wear or failure. In any case, it would be well worth doing an oil change if not done for a while, it can't hurt anything. 20W50 engine oil is cheap, I'm about to do mine.

Do you have headlights?