ThreePointFive
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Posts posted by ThreePointFive
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Glad you got it sorted but as I am doing this job in the next two weeks, I am really not looking forward to it. Especially as I have zero patience when things don't fit immediately.
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I think we need to see it with the roof up.
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I dunno, Western can get a bit agitated if he has too many Ribenas, other than that we're relatively sedate.
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Even the 25k for a G Reg on there is utterly ridiculous, but £250k for the least desirable model? I wonder how they even came up with that number.
Personally love 110 HTs as they're pure workhorses and therefore "proper" but that's a very niche market.
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I've been thinking about this more and I need to change my answer. You
shouldmust get a 110 Tomb Raider double cab in immaculate, unmodified condition. -
It is for me now, too. Doh.
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2 hours ago, FridgeFreezer said:
I would avoid all of the tarter-uppers like the plague. Get something that's not been dicked about with by anyone.
Also 2nd Ross's comment - borrow or hire one for a week to see if you can live with it, it's not like anything else you've driven.
If I had 40k to throw at a Defender I'd be tempted to get a ratty old one and rennovate it as I wanted - likely end up better, more solid and longer lived than a tarted up late-model.
I hate to keep agreeing with everything Fridge says, but for me this is the best approach. Buy a decent TD5/TDCI in standard trim, drive it about a bit and get to love it as-is. Form a shopping list of things that drive you nuts about it (heated seats, mirrors, windscreen, etc) then throw that money at it with a clear plan for what you're doing, how and when, in one go. With that budget, you could pay someone else to do the work and still have enough left over for a sensible daily.
I must have spent double what mine is worth, but apart from the time it has taken (I didn't follow my own advice above) I have exactly what I wanted.
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On 8/22/2020 at 8:27 AM, elbekko said:
Seems like this site is dead now, assume along with the product...
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So what you're saying is that I haven't invented some new way of fixing mudguards but just seen yours and then forgotten. Yours are exactly what I had pictured, but will require much bigger holes being drilled than I am comfortable with!
Filbee - thank you, I'm going to fit the Gywn Lewis front and rear mudhsield kits in the next few months but I still want to leave the mudguards in their original factory locations. I think that should hit the right balance between not having to clean every inch of the chassis at the first sight of mud, while retaining a factory look that I am trying to retain.
I would be grateful if anyone can supply the chassis bolt hole locations for the factory mudguards.
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Clean air? ect. Oh well, was going to comment but there no point. Changed my mind
You can put forward any opnion you might wish to, so long as you do so with the basic respect and decency we all should expect of each other. Getting angry because someone doesn't agree with your opinion is not an option, though.
QuoteSo I take it you believe in man made climate change?
All of the credible science does point to it.... But I didn't mention climate change. I merely said these schemes are designed to keep more-polluting engines out of areas. Separate climate change from this for a minute; we can prove that air quality increases when traffic is lower. We can prove that smog is a thing. We can prove that instances of respiratory disease is higher in the most polluted areas. All of the evidence points to these as true.
Whether these schemes are the best way to do this, whether they unfairly penalise those who cannot afford them and do nothing against those who can is a different matter. I am saying they make people think about the vehicles they own and drive in those areas, as we see on this forum.
25 minutes ago, andy _1 said:Wait till there no gas or oil heating only electricity and green at that. Just look at texas in the USA thats your familys future , if you just accept it . Climate lockdows are coming. I would stop all the trucks going into the lez or whatever it called , but the elite would not like that. I however am installing a diesel generator in our home and store of red diesel, for the coming blackouts, I can mind the 70s but then that was caused by strikes , this will be cause by green nonsense ie no coal fired power stations or gas , when the power starts going on and off. THIS AINT ABOUT CLEAN AIR SAME AS COVID 19 AINT ABOUT A VIRUS
Ok.
@Green200tdiapologies for putting your thread off-topic, you've got a cracking vehicle and it would be a shame to see you lose interest in it.
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They are unlikely to ban anything in a meaningful way, just tax things so they're too expensive to run for normal people.
It's the point with the LEZs etc. The fact they are making people not take vehicles into those areas or even changing their engines is exactly what they are meant to do; the point is cleaner air, not revenue generation (yes, I know the argument that it is, or is both).
I've worked on the principle that by 2030 it will be too expensive in tax, fuel and societal percetion to drive the 90. All the more reason to get a few years' enjoyment out of it now.
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There's a similar sounding car but a 2009 on Autotrader for 18k in metalic grey. Given there are a couple of HTs at 15-16k, I think they're dreaming.
Pure guess as it's all dependent on condition, colour and how much it can be tidied up but I would say:
£12k low
£13.5k medium
£15k high
Being a truck cab does limit the market, but conversions are easy enough and the market is still strong (though prices are softening as expensive cars aren't moving).
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I am looking at drilling my chassis to accept the standard mudguard brackets. On my Richards chassis, there is no indication where these holes should go. Can anyone take measurements to show exactly where the holes are drilled? I am not too pleased to be drilling a galvanised chassis at all, so being as exact as possible would really help me out. I need front and rear bolt holes, please.
While Googling this, one repeated answer to the question on forums was "why?" (no answer to the original question, though). Yes they get hooked up off road but the car isn't going to spend more than 5% of its life off road and there are benefits to not spraying mud/grit at your own bodywork or other vehicles. I also happen to like the factory look of a 90 with the full set of mudguards.
So, are there any options for quick dismount guards that are secure enough to ensure they don't dismount at 70mph? I was thinking of a simple cotter pin/R clip arrangement (pins pointing down through chassis holes, clips on the bottom end supporting the mounts). For this to work, I will need to find pins the right length tol hold the mountings tight against the outriggers as I don't want flappy flaps but I suspect there aren't many pins that will take a stout-enough clip in the M6-size, so would need to enlarge the holes in everything to fit bigger pins.
Before I go making decisions I have to live with, are there any other options people have gone with?
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35 minutes ago, RedLineMike said:
found this in my ebay search for offroader
not sure what to think
Either way, still looks like the best-executed Disco pickup conversion on EBay right now. Seems particularly difficult to convert while keeping the proportions right, you could wheelie some of them by sitting on the tailgate.
I would be interested in how a supercharged 300TDI drives.
I do love the dashboard and steering wheel combination with no irony whatsoever.
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On the colour front, is it definitely orange and not yellow? I believe AA ones were all yellow.
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3, (not 14 - looking on a tiny screen so made a mistake!) Is the fan speed control, 13 is the heat, 16 is which direction the air goes (feet or up).
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Yep 13 goes to top of the heater, 3 goes to the bottom side fixing on the heater, 16 goes to the dashboard flap control.
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- Popular Post
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16 minutes ago, Retroanaconda said:You can’t drive a house though
Yeah you can.
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I don't want to brag but I've watched all episodes of Project Binky (twice) so I'm kind of a fabrication expert now, and I think that looks quite good! It clearly does the job, to leave the ground so clear.
It was how it would attach to the car that was the biggest mystery, now answered!
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The fact they don't know a value casts doubt on how they came to possess this equipment.
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At least you don't have to colour match replacements for the bonnet and rear door when they get nicked. Though that would never happen, these will never get parked outside.
I would like it better without the plastic A bar, and is it me or has it been lowered a small amount? Defenders just do not sit well with the wheels crammed up into the arches, there's something else "off" about it.
The 5 secs to 60 is truly impressive, definitely can appreciate the hilarity of that in a car that isn't in any other way trying to be a sports car like those Kahn/Chelsea Truck Co abortions. I just think they should have gone full Camel spec and not tried to update it visually, the worst parts of it are the "modern" accessories.
Also would be better without the stickers, for £200k they couldn't even licence the Camel Trophy name? Better none at all than invent a Mickey mouse fictional event.
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Let's not have an argument over wheel spacers. We've all miss-phrased something and it comes off differently via text, I don't think the OP intended any offence.
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You need to take some photos of that rig in the daylight!
Defender prices?
in International Forum
Posted
Plus unknown mileage...