ThreePointFive

I dunno Bish, I think the rule is that if you drive by a certain number of police cars and don't get pulled over, you're rock solid legally. Seems to be the legal benchmark set on every car forum ever.

Hi Western Non-specific forum members I need to find the grommet for the 1999 TD5 Defender bulkhead I have but can't see anything on the diagrams. Hole measures about 52mm, tried buying other grommets but it doesn't like them due to the depth of the lip. As always, really appreciate any help.

Welp, it's not the exhaust manifold so that's sorted. Up for ragging it as long as it's not a choice between it freeing up or self destructing across the garage floor.

Great... I did think that might be the case as you can't apply pressure from the other side. All the more reason to get a professional to do it I guess.

I am just about to do this myself, my frame is off the car so thought it would be easier to get access. Starting to wonder if I shouldn't just get someone else to do it, a quick google revealed a mobile fitter with a fairly good reputation just a few streets away but he's left out the "how much" aspect of his response....

Small steps towards progress, thank you. Took the stepper motor out and it was partially open (because of course it was). I took a rubber bush I had lying around, sanded it to size and slid the stepper shaft through it, now seems to seal up the hole and it can't get sucked into the engine as it's held around the shaft. Revs are now 500-ish and while starting is more of an issue, it does start and I dare say it's no worse than the carbs with the choke. I don't think I'll need a PWM. Hunting is now +/- 100RPM and the rev counter/MS agree, it's also smoking a hell of a lot less though it's working half as hard so that's no surprise. That meant I could run it for long enough to get some heat into it and the temp gauge was working all along, it seems. However, as always on this build it's three steps forward and one back, so I have a loud clicking which seems to be coming from the top of the engine, passenger side rear. It's linked to revs. I took a short video but it sounds like cam to me. ClickClack.mp4 Total top-end rebuild required?

It's only fair I tell you I'm going to steal this idea.

So I did that and it runs much better, still jumping 200rpm either side of 1300 at the moment. Here's what I've been reading for most of the guidance: I've got the rev gauge working now by putting the switches on the rear in the exact opposite configuration to the VDO instructions. Also fished out a reasonably bloated piece of fuel return hose that had actually fallen off the return pipe and was merrily floating around in the tank, as well as changing the pipe I used to extend the fuel pump for the in-tank type. With the tank open I could move the tank sender and work out which connector went where, so I know that works too. I suspect the temp gauge might not be working though, haven't seen it move at all. Now I just need to be able to run the car long enough to really get to grips with the tuning and without gassing myself out of the garage, I might try to find TDC again just to make sure I've got it close, it's looking about 20 degrees advanced at the moment. I don't have a PWM as I opted not to fit it in the end, so that won't be causing the rising/falling revs unless it's the absence of one that's the problem. What else can I look at (or is that a huge question and I just need to keep reading on here)?

For a couple of reasons, I am having to tune the car inside the garage but even with the exhaust next to the door it's getting fumes inside (as you would expect). I looked into extraction systems but they start at £500 just for the high temp pipe, and that's without any of the fans etc. I know those are designed to sit with cars running for hours at a time and keep air quality within legal limits. I was thinking of using a short length of pipe to run the 2-3 feet to clear the door and then put some brackets up the garage wall to run it vertically away, I wouldn't expect 100% effectiveness but surely that would improve things. Has anyone else looked into exhaust ventilation for their home workshop, and are there any alternatives that could meet requirements? I would prefer something non-melty.

Had a go at timing it today after a long period of not getting much done. The piston stop I bought wasn't long enough to actually stop the piston and I don't have a spares spark plug to make one, so had to use various garage items as feeler gauges instead. I think I got a very loose approximation of TDC. I used this from one of Fridge's old posts on the subject: Changing this value, I'm now at 10 degrees and it's much smoother (but far from smooth) as it bounces from about 800-2,000 RPM in a rhythmic way and it still bogs when the throttle is applied. Changing this value is making it fire further anti-clockwise of the TDC mark, which I assume is advancing it? Am I safe to keep advancing it until I get rid of this unstable idle or is that going to lead to detonation before I get there?

If that was the same location on a 90 it would be worse..... if that helps?!

I read your thread start to finish after I posted. While incredibly similar in a number of ways, the quality of what you've done is what I wish mine was. I'm not even jealous, I just want to start again. It's an absolute credit to you and an awesome tribute to your friend.

This raises an interesting question.... On the fuel return pipe into the tank, is it best practice to put pipe on it so it drains smoothly to the bottom of the tank or do you just leave it to drip/spray where the metal pipe enters the too of the tank? Either way, I need to go and get a piece of pipe out of my tank because I was not aware they're not submersible, the question is what to replace it with.

I didn't see what I did there!!

Thanks All, appreciate the pointers - will get something made up and see how it goes.

I know I'm going to ask one of those questions everyone hates but after searching, all of the advice I can find is about timing chains or distributors. Can I confirm that the best way to time this thing without existing markings is to: 1. Crack off the pulley bolt and washer to expose the woodruff key 2. Mark outside edge of pulley wheel in line with the woodruff 3. Mark the engine in line with the spark plug hole and centre of the pulley wheel so when the two marks meet, the engine is at TDC Is this going to be precise enough or do I need to come at it from a different approach?

For as simple a thing as they are, I really would make the bracket rather than buy one for that money. I would be happy to take photos/measurements etc of my spare coil pack's bracket if it helps you out.

Your air filter setup makes me very jealous. Great build.

I assumed it was a 90.... No idea why.🤐🤐🤐

Don't forget you'll need to extend it for the deeper Def tank.

It's the JWs I'm avoiding, that 'eye' look just doesn't sit well on the car and DRLs on Defenders is just odd so won't be wiring those in. I'm not worried about the lit-up state as I'm not going to be looking at it at night, that's everyone else's problem! Justifying £300 over a set of Wipacs with upgraded bulbs is the sticking point, so these will need to be really good headlights but not having melted wiring, conserving battery and similar/increased output would make that justifiable. Especially as upgraded bulbs come at a cost to all those things.

Well, that's me sold. Your eye isn't immediately drawn to them as being out of keeping, which is exactly what I want.

Would anyone with the Trucklites be willing to post a photo of them fitted? I've been weighing this up for 6 months as all of my lighting is LED and I like the idea of lower power draw on the notorious headlight wiring (I have a Boomslang kit before we all knew how bad they were) so this might be another safety measure as well as the other benefits. I hate almost every LED headlight's looks, but the Trucklite looks near standard, I just want to see them on 'normal', working trucks and not the handbags that my searches come back with so I can make up my mind.

Nige's manual - I should have been clearer.

Page 18 of the MS manual.