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Posts posted by ThreePointFive
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The choice between unobtainable genuine parts (not even talking about cost) and Britpart as the sole aftermarket supplier has killed all of our vehicles. It might not take effect for 20+ years for some, but critical parts to the operation of the vehicle will slowly fail over time and there will be nothing to replace them with.
Sounds dramatic until you realise that a part that doesn't fit is no more useful than trying to bolt a raw potato in its place.
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Funny, I thought I was pointing out the obvious when I said it. For all of the reasons above, it just looks like a 110 chassis. Plus if it was much else, it would be on rear leaf springs - that's clearly a coil spring seat.
It seems to be very cleverly done, though.
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That's the good stuff, right there.
Can you put 35x bodywork on a 135? Asking for a friend.
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16 hours ago, Ed Poore said:
Not 6ft but I have a 4ft Winton flail with roller behind my little New Holland 1220. It does a neater job that the John Deere ride on it replaced did. Can even use it in the wet with half decent results.
This was done about a week ago on the one dry day in that week.The grass was about a foot high and sheep had been all over it (to try and cut it down but they didn't like the long grass).
This portion of the field has nettles 3ft high when I started
Last year before an open day at the Abbey I demolished a good chuck of those reeds with the flail too.
It's a very versatile tool and if you've got the power to run one I'd highly recommend it over a topper. The 4ft is a little over sized for the 1220 but she just about manages it if you treat it gently. Just have to feather the clutch to get the flail up to speed.
Edit - you don't need the roller to spread stuff evenly, the design of the mower does that. The roller basically gives the striping effect and also means you're not running on the skids so don't tear up the ground as much.
Sir Ed, we need to work on the 'before' aspect of your "before and after' photo game.
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I am very glad I posted this. While my own aspirations died last week (property not suitable), I can at least live vicariously through you lot.
I don't like the idea of taking up a garage space with a tractor that doesn't have any grass to play on, and it's not like I'm going to take it up and down the road for a jaunt so that's that.
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MODS, delete this if it's too OT, it is at least about a proper all-terrain vehicle...
Bit of a silly thing to ask, but I'm thinking of buying a (very) old tractor as something of a garden ornament and I know a few on here are owners/enthusiasts. I began looking and it seems that the price difference between a non-functioning one to a reasonable runner is really not that big so might as well have something that drives.
This whole plan is contingent on having a piece of land big enough to put it on and not dominate the space. We're viewing properties but haven't even found one we like yet so it's likely to come to nothing anyway, but if we do own a paddock/field, I'll want a way of mowing it - something an old tractor can do- but assume the whole point is that there is no point, any usefulness is secondary.
So I wanted to ask what are the basic do's and don'ts of the vintage tractor world, am I signing up for a world of pain in maintenance, hidden costs even just to have it sit dormant 95% of the time, and I assume I'll need to buy obscure tools/spanners in Olde English Badgers or whatever unit of measurement they used in the dark ages?
As a complete beginning trawl of eBay, this is the sort of thing I envisioned. No idea if these are any good or priced appropriately, as I say, this is all very early days and a complete whim.
This 1948 Ferguson TEA20 T20 Tractor
This Ferguson TE20 petrol vintage tractor
If anyone is thinking that wanting a tractor for the sake of having one is stupid, good job, well observed.
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Very nice, but the white tyre lettering needs to go.
Any hints at what's underneath? Going by the wheels and the suspension mounts, I guess Land Rover. The cross member seems well modified to hide what it is.
1 hour ago, Bowie69 said:No need for it to be a work truck, looks like a perfect commuter/grocery getter, to me.
I actually believe you would daily this.
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2 hours ago, Ed Poore said:
Funny, Dad does too. Uses it extensively when he's repaired his Shoguns. Also funny that he's on his third or fourth in the 15 years I've owned my 110
In fairness Mitsubishis make TDI head gasket failure rates look reasonable so he's done well there.
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I always found that Hammerite Kurust worked well, it seems to 'convert' the rust rather than sit on top of it, meaning that further sanding didn't compromise the surface.
https://www.hammerite.co.uk/product/kurust/
Hydrate80 by Bilt Hamber is something I've posted a lot about, I rate anything they make. It seems a more reliable product to stop rust returning and it doesn't even need to be over-painted, but it does go on thick and part of the protection is the seal it makes over the afflicted area. This has a knock-on effect on the quality of the finish as sanding is difficult.
https://bilthamber.com/product/hydrate-80/
As for paints, I've been quite surprised by the Simoniz range of spray paints, particulrly the engine enamel and imaginatively-named Tough Paint series.
https://www.holtsauto.com/simoniz/products/one-coat-tough-paints/
https://www.holtsauto.com/simoniz/products/engine-enamel/
I can't say any paint has been brilliant though, all have been disappointing in longevity. I only use spray paint, perhaps brush-on is better, but nothing that involves touching the surface matches the quality of finish even from a rattle can.
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It doesn't even have holes in it.
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10 hours ago, Snagger said:
one of them, possibly D4 rather than D3, snaps crank shafts frequently, and that is not due to driving style or maintenance issues.
Weird, I thought it was the 2.7 that was more prone to this.
Definitely true to say you can't oil change your way out of it or drive with a feathery touch, not that the Jag forums understand that.
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6 hours ago, Happyoldgit said:
£77,000 window price
Have you told her it's a reasonably-priced workhorse for normal, working people? It's so obtainable, not like LR's expensive lifestyle vehicle that's too expensive to use.
Though to be fair (if I have to), this isn't specific to Ineos, all new cars are unreasonable now. All part of trying to get us into unservicable debt just to live a standard previously taken for granted.
Having now seen one on the road (all black, murdered-out and spotlessly clean in lane 3 of the motorway....) I am working on a 'Grenadier Wave'.
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6 hours ago, Happyoldgit said:
^^I'm not sure he is stating anything new... but takes a very long while to do it.
Stating the obvious as if you're the only person it's occured to is something of a Land Rover/Off Road
journalistYouTuber trademark. Most of them are pure wind without valid ideas.- 3
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I enjoyed the comment responding to "not sure of the execution" - at least it will be a public execution.
There's something about not having some kind of swing-up pole with a screw ajdustment to meet the bottom of the lift, or another way of providing a failsafe against it coming back down that makes me uncomfortalble.
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Never. It's bad enough it's still noticeable, I don't think to the point you'd think it's open but bad enough.
I don't understand how it doesn't sit flush. And no, the bushes aren't the wrong way around.
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Having not seen a single one until now, today I saw two of Big Jimbo's creations in the flesh at an air show. One in the car park and another on its own stand.
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33 minutes ago, reb78 said:
Pretty sure this is the point exactly. Ooo look, i have a range rover. Errr no, you have an evoque...
I get exactly why you say this, but Audi (for example) is a brand based 85% on badge value and the engineering of the 15% of their cars very few people can afford to buy so it's not exclusive to JLR or even unusual in the least.
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2 hours ago, hurbie said:
we recently had a health investigation at the work place (not sure how to name this) , the guy doing all the test, told me after the hearing test , that they see a lot of hearing loss on young mechanic's who use noice canceling headset/earphone's .
so i'm not to keen on using them (as i'm allready losing some hearing in the higher Hz range , "pretty normal for mechanics at my age " i was told ....)
Did they check if these mechanics weren't listening to the Screamo or the Dubsteps at full blast while wearing these headphones?
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I'd be surprised if the noise cancelling ones were dangerous, given they are used widely in shooting as Doug says.
In itself, that's an incredible feat given the reaction times.
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2 hours ago, Bowie69 said:
I don't remember you being disappointed when you drove LGT....
Even I don't agree with everything I say all of the time.
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If nothing else, they missed out on the opportunity to say the listing was a bit hasty.
And I have just learnt I am a new member of the W*LF W*nker club, having just migrated from the S*wtooth Sh*thead gang.
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https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/295840349179
I don't know about cheap, but it meets the first part of the thread title.
Can't make it do the fancy link preview thing. It's a series 1.
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Aftermarket parts fails!
in International Forum
Posted
I agree, the consumables are still abundant from good suppliers, as are things like clutches and some of the related components. It's the LR-specific stuff that can degrade just being sat on a shed shelf long term that worries me.
The problem with the market for a middle ground quality supplier is that it's been tried. Bearmach were very good until their last few years, but they couldn't shift the volume of someone like Britpart so the profitability is much lower on parts that are already more expensive to buy (for them).
A lot of owners aren't willing or able to maintain a vehicle on anything above absolute minimum cost, so BP became their default supplier despite knowing the longer term cost would be higher.
Then you have the fact that most garages will fit the cheapest part they can for any job, as they aren't as worried as they need to be about the longevity of their repairs. Now there's no choice, it only strengthens BP's grip and makes it impenetrable by anyone else.
Coupled together, it's very difficult for a business to operate at scale and be viable in the middle of the market.