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V8david

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Everything posted by V8david

  1. I have a 1989 3.5 RRC. My exhaust has a hanger pretty much in line with the transfer box and another one near the rear left wheel arch, there weren't any on the actual exhaust itself. They're just threaded bars that U clamps can be hung from, with some rubber blocks/washer things at their upper ends. I used the original ones for some time and only recently replaced the rear one which I made up using threaded bar and rubber bushes. Having said all that I assume you're well past this by now and have it sorted?!
  2. Hi Doddy I am by no means any sort of expert but you really need to start with the basics I think. When it won't start, have you got spark? And have you got fuel? i.e. does it stink of fuel when you've been cranking? Pull a spark plug or two when you've tried to start it and it won't, what do they look like? You've said you've basically disturbed the entire fuel supply system and since then it's playing up. You need to check all that is working properly, re-check all connections etc. I assume as you say it's a 'non carb' you mean it's an EFi? And by the year I'd assume a flapper? If you go in the tech archive and download the flapper diagnostics manual you can work through all the tests from that. Very straightforward, just take your time and be methodical. Good luck.
  3. Like the way it's parked over a drain as well for when it starts leaking...
  4. Is there a switch on the dash for the lights? I assume you've checked it but you haven't mentioned it. On my hard dash there's the cluster of 6 switches next to the radio, they switch the rear screen heater on, fog lights, front spot light things etc., one of them is a switch for my courtesy lights. Is it as simple as that being on, or faulty, or am I being too obvious? Please feel free to point out if I'm being thick, I assume you're talking interior lights, one in the front, one in the back, in the roof lining? Apologies if I've got the wrong end of the stick!
  5. Or get on a lathe and turn yourself a drift set... http://www.cowdery.org.uk/downloads/V8-Cam-brg-tool.pdf
  6. When I rebuilt my 3.5 flapper I took the block to a machine shop for the bores to be checked and honed, I bought camshaft bearings and got them to fit them while they had the block. I don't think it added hugely to the cost and it was nice to get the block back just done and ready. I took the camshaft in with me so they were able to check alignment which was absolutely fine. There is information on the net about changing them yourself, from what I have seen it's done using threaded bar with nuts and various size washers. The main thing obviously is making sure the oil holes line up. I think it's quite time consuming but not hugely complex, depends whether you can be bothered. I assume your block will be going to a machine shop at some point anyway for work on the bores, so maybe just get them to do the camshaft bearings while they have it. Up to you. Good luck with it whichever way you go, enjoy the rebuild! Cheers David
  7. Good work mate, and well done. Mine is almost back after 4 and a half years. I feel your pain. I'm thankfully keeping mine, the thought of having to sell her after all that is terrible. Good luck.
  8. Excellent for the price. I've just replaced all the brake lines on my RRC with copper nickel using one. Couldn't fault it. Was dead easy to use in situ as well when I needed to shorten a couple of pieces slightly.
  9. Yes, it's not ideal. I'll do regular changes and keep an eye on it. She doesn't go far anyway, not the daily driver. Thanks for the tip.
  10. Well, with some research it seems it is common, fairly normal and inevitable that there will be some mixing between swivels and diff oil. The seal that does the job is orientated to keep the diff oil from the swivel more than the other way round.
  11. Hello all. RRC 1989, front axle... My swivel grease is leaking into the main axle and mixing with the oil, and vice versa. I have the same oil/grease mix in both. Question is, does it actually matter? Nothing's leaking out, everything's getting lubricated, so is any harm being done?
  12. Nice work. Print yourself a duster next and give that dash a wipe over!
  13. Shame his enthusiasm had subsided by the time he came to making the headlight/indicator combo. Looks like that took less than 30 seconds to chuck on, and ruins the whole front end (of an already ruined front end). As a fan of the marque I do hate to see these old girls hacked about but each to their own.
  14. Fair enough, I prefer the contrast of the inner bits being satin black, whatever the colour of the outer body. Each to their own though (that does not apply to the rest of the vehicle by the way...)
  15. Ruined, but the ruin is reversible. If I bought it I'd sort the bumpers out, take off those bloody dreadful rear quarters and the frankly disgusting rear lights. Quite like the lights in the front grille though, definitely sort out the front side lights. I'd also restore the arches inside the back doors to satin black, nothing worse than trying to gloss everything. I'd also give the current owner a swift kick in the balls and ask what on earth he was thinking.
  16. Well done. I carefully put both mine in the car somewhere and couldn't remember where at all. I was welding up the drivers floor and needed to give it a small, corrective smack with a hammer. When I did that one of the clips fell from somewhere and appeared in the middle of the floor. No idea where from and still no idea where the other one is! Good point duncmc for future door removal, put the clips back on the hinge so you always know EXACTLY where they are at all times.
  17. Cheers. Something in there will do the job even if it isn't exactly the same.
  18. Sorry for being thick but I really do give up... Took my drivers door off ('89, concealed hinge), to do so I removed the C (E?) retaining clips off the two hinge pins and lifted the door off. I have since, er, misplaced one of the clips and cannot find the part number anywhere (my parts CD won't load either). Anyone know what on earth these are called/what size they are, and have a part number? I asssume they are fairly general fixing things and can be found in places other than LR parts dealers. Thanks...
  19. Good luck with it mate. Always good to hear about another one being kept on the road. Are you absolutely positively sure you want to lose the lovely V8 burble for the diesel?! Seriously though, hope all goes well. Dave
  20. Nice one Mark, sounds like a good fix. Could you post a pic up? I'm interested even if no one else is!
  21. Did you have a go at swapping in the P38 system in the end? Any luck?
  22. Possibly, well, anything could be made to fit with enough fabrication! The easiest swap would be from a later Classic but anything is worth a go. If you do end up doing a swap, take plenty of photos and post them on here, would be an interesting thread for others suffering from the same wiper issue!
  23. Hi Mark Mine's 1989 and I have the same problem. I've asked a few different suppliers and apparently you'd need to transplant the wiper system off a later model so the wiper arms would take standard fitting wiper blades. The way the arms fit to the spindles is different. I've thought about attaching the top half of a new (standard fitting) set to the bottom of an arm that would fit my spindle but haven't got round to experimenting yet. It is a particularly annoying problem as it's a pain getting hold of blades that fit. Good luck with it mate.
  24. Good point. I didn't think of heat. Is the steel tank enough to shed heat while fuel is cycling back and forth? Maybe not if fuel is low. I want to run the pipes along the inboard face of the chassis rail, not going along the top again. The thick rubber hose would offer good protection against anything flying up while driving? Stone chips? Don't even know if that is an issue?
  25. Thanks for the reply. Yes, I've read about people using copper, some bloke just bought a role from Wickes and used that. I prefer the idea of the injection hose, if it's legal! Attached to the chassis rail with rubber lined p clips. Happy to do copper if I have to though...
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