cosworth
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Posts posted by cosworth
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i disagree completely.
how would you know if one of the liners have slipped? how would you know if head is marked by the liners but within tolerance? how would you know the basic tension of the belt? etc etc
all minor points.
manuals advise technical specifications, they don`t teach experience.
if it were that easy, i would`ve just bought a book rather than doing my time at college etc.
take a mundane task like brake pads, anyone can change them, but can everyone assess the components for problems as they do so? at the end of the day if you get it wrong you may kill someone. harsh but true.
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i posted to add to the thread, not slate it. i couldn`t reply obviously as the thread was locked.
anyone that tackles a major repair on their engine with no previous mechanical knowledge is foolish.
it wasn`t meant to offend, but obviously has done. lets agree to disagree.
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1. you also removed loads of connectors before hand which are uneccessary.
2. the head rarely needs skimmed.
3. which is easier if marked accordingly.
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just reading through the headgasket archive there, nice bit of work! all though there are a couple of minor points i can add.
use a 13mm socket and extension, remove the 7 nuts on the back of the inlet manifold. remove the 2 breather hoses on the rocker cover, and simply push the inlet away from the head. this cuts down on a lot of the footery work with clips and wiring. as for the exhaust manifold, just undo the nuts holding the downpipe to the manifold and lift off with the head, again this saves the work involved removing which are usually corroded manifold studs.
also when you set the timing before and after belt removal. you have the pulleys reading upside at the marks? a lot of folk do this so you end up with inlet and exhaust effectively pointing at the corresponding side:
<-------in ex------->
but i personally find it a lot easier setting it up in the reverse. have the inlet and exhaust readable and not upside down, then if you look at the dowel pin underneath the retaining 17mm bolt, the dowel is on the corresponding "lug" (hard to explain without a pic, bt if you look at it, it`s self explanitory) mark this with a bit of paint and it`s a whole lot easier to remember.
hopefully that all makes sense! and i hope it doesn`t come across as exercisey, but i find this way a lot less hassle.
and just to be a complete exercise, your cam timing is out on the last pic of it
2 exhausts don`t make a right 
good work though mate
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hi mate
1. A/C is dependant on model
2. HDC only cameon the later models
3. do a wee search in here as it`s very well documented.
for 5k budget you`ll struggle for a good td4, though you`ll pick up an L series for a lot less. buy as new as you can.
hth
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have you bought one yet?
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i couldn`t believe how hot they got! you`d expect a turbo to glowlike that after a right good caining, but not a standard family motor!!
yeah i`ve seen em last forever mate.
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common fault on these manifolds mark, right across the k series range, rover, mg and lr. if you want a laugh, rev the car from under the bonnet until hot and watch the manifold
welding them back up is perfect if you can weld
i`m currently building a turbo`d k using the same manifold with the same `modified` broken off cat!!
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i just bought the mrs an 04 plate petrol XEi. great looking car and very nice to drive.
if buying one, buy as new as you can afford. avoid pre 2000 models as thats when the IRD boxes were changed by landrover. also it almost eliminates the chassis problems as i haven`t came across many post 2000 models with it, yet!!!
as for running bio diesel or oil farmer, the L series should lap it up fine, but i`d strongly advise not to do so in a td4. the injectors are tempremantal at times and can be an expensive learning curve.
engine wise, for piece of mind on all accounts;
if buying a petrol, replace the head gasket for a modified one and the belt while you are there.
for a td4, change the crankcase breather filter as it`s commonly missed out and will cause engine failure eventually.
for an l series, change both timing belts.
they are underestimated off roaders and will surprise
hth
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what would be folks next port of call here then? egr has been blanked aswell
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merry xmas folks
have a great one
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very common faults both both the clutch master cylinder and the clutch slave cylinder. i`ve read countless folk saying you can bleed them on here but thats pointless if it has a leak. also be wary of leaks from the bell housing as 8/10 the n/s IRD seal is leaking. you`d swear blind it was clutch fluid!
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depending on the year of freelander you may have problems with the ird box. landrover changed them in late 2000. anything before i`d be wary of
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sounds like it`s binding on mate. it won`t be the abs. best bet is to strip off and have a look. check the retaining springs
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it`s on a white 8 spoke that i don`t know the fitment of
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So now i thinkn i have to drive to at least work, maybe the looooong way
haha
where is that??
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the best locknuts, by a long way are k-nuts. They are smaller in spanner size, 12 mm for an m10 from memory with a flange and are deformed to slightly oval rather than round. You get them in metric and imperial, costing around 1 pound each depending on size. I use them on my exhaust and on places were spanner space is tight.
daan
these are fantastic. but really only used on exhausts for some reason
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i asked the same question to one of the top landrover experience boys. he recommended the 200 over the 300 for the shear abuse it could take and low down torque it produced.
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what about folk that flash you or put there rear fog on and off as they think you are on full beam in the disco? it`s the first 4x4 i`ve had and i get it all the time. the headlamp aim is spot on but folk still persist in flashing.
having said that' it usually only take a quick full beam blast for them to stop!!
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sounds good do you have a link mate?
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sorry don't know what the thread size is but.. on the track rod, one end is left hand threaded and the other right..
all i have in the past to strengthen was to sleeve them is some decent thick wall tube...
hope this helps
not in all cases mate. they come both in left and right handed threads
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Cosworth: what is the problem with changing the sensor? Does broken bits of the sensor fall into the hub?
I have the fault and a new sensor lying in its bag. Should I not even go for it unless I have a new hub?
have ordered Nanocom to read and clear codes, will receive it within a few days, I hope.
Tobias
they are usually seized solid mate. by all means give it a go but be careful. you`ll also more than likely need some heat to remove the shaft from the hub. good luck.
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yes mate it is adjustable if you take the door card off. fairly straightforward
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thrpttle potentiometer or pump. same thinking here. they are both common faults on the defenders. iirc there is a choice of 2 throttle potentiometers. a 2 track or 3 track (can`t be certain at the mo as my head hurts!) make sure you get the correct one. it will have to be fitted using t4 though. fuel pump is a right royal pain in the arse to do. probably the most common of faults on the defender. something a bit obvious but is there water in the tank perhaps?
2 exhausts don`t make a right 
headgasket tutorial
in Freelander Forum
Posted
it`s the same in any trade though. my central heating packed in during the big freeze there, i know plenty about small cooling and heater systems, but in the end i had to bite the bullet and pay for the pro`s to fix it. i couldn`t risk leaving us with no heating or making a fatal mistake, despite what i could read in a book. if i wanted to play gas engineer or plumber, i`dve studied for it.