Tony_C

The Citroen i took the fans off had the temp switch about 1/3 the way up the rad (i should have used that rad). Some pics i found on here had the temp switch (x-eng switch) in the bottom hose. (i have no idea - which it the normal direction of flow through a rad?) I guess from the comments above it flows (when hot, stat open) engine -> top hose -> rad -> bottom hose -> engine. not that it will make any difference, but, these are pusher fans mounted in front of the rad - i expect they will hinder airflow slightly when not running. Oh, i also took the fuse box and relay box off the same car - a bit of jiggling with the internals of these two and you can fit fuses and relays in the same splash proof box - quite neat (battery is now under passenger seat so new relay box will be mounted on inner nearside wind up front near the rad.) Cheers Tony

Thanks for the responses, looking at the stat housing there are two 'blanks'. i guess i can drill and tap one (furthest (slightly) away from the body) of them to suit whatever dual rated switch i source. I have no idea what stat is in there - suppose i will find out when i remove it. A couple of relays (60A i think for these fans). (the guage is a different matter - S3 guage and currently a standard sender on a 19J2.5TD (not looked or wired that bit yet) Thanks for your help Cheers Tony

I have dropped a 2.5TD 19J into a series 3. All going well so far - runs well (short periods only as currently no fans) and everything now fits (eventually) I have removed the viscous fan, and fitted twin fans off a renault people carrier (actually these fit perfectly - little cutouts in the plastic match exactly with the rad) I am now going to set about wiring the fans up, does anyone know optimum/ideal or best guess temps for a pair of temperature switches (one for each fan) on this engine? Defender 19J 2.5TD? Thanks Tony

Thanks for the link i could see the spring clip under the collet thing beat the outer ring with a socket and popped of the spring clip All working well now!! :-) (Just got to make the damn thing run for more than 10 seconds now - air leaks in the fuel lines i reckon). (btw - thanks for the offer of the starter mine is fine now) Cheers Tony

Hi all I am refurbing a 2.5TD 19J Starter, new coil and new pinion assembly. I have the complete pinion assembly on the bench, and the new replacement part beside it. How do i strp the existing one down - any ideas? I need to either pull the large (internally toothed) gear off one end or remove the small stop/collet thing off the other end? Any ideas which i should try - staring at them both is giving me no clues which one is supposed to come off Any Help Appreciated! Cheers Tony

Hi WESTENDER Did you sort your clutch problem - i now have the same issue in an 02 petrol car? Cheers Tony

Thanks David - i'll give that a go. Cheers Tony

Hi all, Before i start i appologise for my lack of search abilities - i know i have seen what i want on here somewhere - i just can't find it. I am looking for a schematic, diagram or photos for a 2.5TD fuel system I am putting a 2.5TD (almost finished) into an S3. Getting mixed up with the lift pump type and the interconnections. (The fuel pump on the block will not prime so this is coming off - but the other i have are not identical (one has glass bowl and the other has differing connections! Any help appreciated Cheers Tony

Hi guys nice easy one - hopefully. Does anyone have any info on the resister thats bolted onto the heater housing. I believe its used for the slow speed on the fan? Can this be replaced with a more modern type power resistor? thanks Tony

apologies if i'm jumping in the wrong place, most of the above sounds familiar. Speedo stopped working, replaced cable worked for about 50mile then stopped working again. Cable is OK speedo on the dash appears to beOK. I have the Gearbox out at the moment so i've stripped the speedo drive down. "What actually drives the speedo drive gear its just a loose fit obn the shaft?" I assume bolting the cover back on pinches the gear on the ends rather than it being fixed onto the shaft. Has anyone ever fitted this gear with a grub screw? Any comments appreciated Cheers Tony

Thanks Bill - unfortunately al the teeth look fine and the syncro is the correct way round. bit stumped now - just getting some prices on a sleeve, 3rd gear and new syncro from paddocks - probably just as well to change them as i'm in here. cheers Tony

evening all (i suppose morning to some also) I am currently staring at a pile of bits that was originally a SIII gearbox, number 90104501 A. Before i took this out and apart i had a problem - jumping out of third when i lifted off the throttle - was fine under power. Now i have it apart i see i have a few teeth missing off the splines that stop the constant gear slinging backwards along the layshaft - i don't tbeleive this to be a big deal. I have just looked at the clearances (end float) on the 2nd/3rd gear on the mainshaft - there are none - so it looks like a replacement 2nd/3rd gear distance sleave. now my question, would a worn distance sleave (and now the lack of clearance) result in the "jumping out of third problem"? I intend to replace the detent springs on the 3rd 4th syncro, is there anything else i should look at or replace while i'm in here? Many thanks in advance Tony_C Notts, UK

I won't be using this thing - but just t complete the story there should be two pics attached Cheers Tony

Looks like i'll leave that one then - thanks for the help guys. (next question where do i find a running 2.5NAS .................) Cheers Tony

Looks like a pukka 18 to me - is it possible its not LR after all? Tony