HotRod

Re: Firstly, on the motor make sure it has good ground connected. Then put a jumper between A and F1, and positive on F2 and motor will turn in on direction, then move jumper between A and F2 with pos on F1 and motor will turn in other direction. If it does then it's solenoids or wiring. If wiring ok change out solenoids. Looks like I was unlucky choosing to label the feed terminal 'A' when the diagram includes a terminal A being one of the others.... So... if I'm referring to the terminals in my photo as Left closest/Left behind and Right closest/Right behind - which ones are the A, F1 and F2 please???

Andy - thanks for that, makes sense of course to jump to the motor itself to test it, rather than the outputs of the solenoid (though if wiring is sound, should have same effect). Any idea which colour is which? No sign of life from the solenoid so I'm guessing its fried! Simon

Thanks for the advice guys -the soleniod price sounds better than buying half a winch if that is the problem! Sadly don;t have a box as the winch was fitted when I bought the Landy! Re the

I'd appreciate some advice please -my winch is dead.... There's power to the input terminal (A) from the battery, but nothing else. There's no power sent to terminal B or the other two when you switch the remote control, even when you bypass the switch and takle power direct to the X inputs. If I try to apply power directly to the B terminal or the others, there's sparks! so I can't test the motor directly. The drum runs freely on disconnect. Should the solenoid click like a relay? if so looks like it may be dead? Are replacement solenoids available? I assume that A (or the one behind it) will be the 12v heavy output for the winch motor (?) -can I use jump leads from A to B to test test winch motor? Thanks Simon Just looked online, seems Britpart wants 200 quid for a whole new lid/solenoid (part DB1303) if that is faulty - gulp...got to be a cheaper way??

Thanks for all that - plenty to try cheers Simon

Not a sausage, no clicks or whirring. I doubt the motor is seized as it has been fine, but more likely water/dirt into the electrics? Not sure where to start....

Probably my own fault for neglecting it, but came to use my front mounted winch yesterday and it was dead. I'll admit it hasn't been used since last year and the Landy has been sitting outside, so... I'd appreciate general advice on basics for troubleshooting the fault and keeping it running Many thanks

It has an exclamation mark (ie not handbrake). Fluid level is almost to the MAX, so presumably not that unless the sender is faulty. Will the fluid/pressure diff valve detect a weeping of fluid? - as there's no obvious (ie big) leaks. The light is not permanantly lit, it flickers - seems odd to indicate a warning when no brakes being applied (ie no pressure to sense?)? Further thoughts appreciated

Thanks Les - do you mean run the engine hard, or break out the blowtorch? cheers

Pressure differential valve? - not come across this before - would this imply I have a leak somewhere if pressure loss is detected? Was on my way home from off road session so damage to lines is possible -though nothing I can see Odd thing is the light flickers whilst driving -ie when brake pedal not being pressed, and seemed to light up on over-run / engine braking - perhaps the lack of vacuum on overrun is flagging a loss of pressure from the servo (as you might expect)???

I need to replace the downpipe (300tdi) but attempting to undo the 3 nuts at the manifold (underneath with socket wet) its clear they are VERY tight/rusty. I've soaked with WD40 as best I can, but worried about applying too much extra leverage - are they prone to shear off? Any advice pls, thanks

Driving today in the Defender the 'Brake' warning light began to flicker, and by the end of the journey has on intemittantly. I don't have an owner's manual - is this linked to brake pad wear sensors, or some other problem? The master cylinder level looks fine so it doesn;t seem to be that Advice appreciated, thanks

Mine's a single-box system too - anyone got pics of the later 'resonator' tailpipe please? Are they pricey? Cheers

Rob I have the same parts stashed for my 300tdi when I get round to it. Interested to hear your feedback and I might start with leaving the cat in place. I've been looking for a slimline silencer in the right bore size but can't find one - should be easy enough to cut & weld into the straight pipe. I've heard straight-thrus and they are a bit rough -depends on what you can stand I guess.

Thanks guys Having cleaned it all up and then left it overnight with the fuel lines moved aside from the tank, there is definitely fuel siting along the joint flange, so it looks to me that it is seeping through a rusty seam.... especially as its sitting 2/3 full so fuel it must be over the joint level. Just need to do a few miles and check it DOESNT leak once the level is below the seam I'm thinking I might get away with trying some of the tank sealant epoxy stuff you can get - might be enough to seal up for a while if I can trace where leaks & clean up the edges weel enough? Otherwise can anyone recomend a source for a replacement tank? - is a cheaper copy part OK or is L/R part advisable? Anbody any helpful hints or tech' on tank replacement please?