robhybrid

I've searched here and couldn't quite find the answers I was looking for, but please post links if you think I've missed it. I'm fed up with the brakes on my 300 tdi defender 90 being useless. I changed to td5 110 vented fronts with new calipers and 110 rear calipers"with a slight mod" I've tried fitting a td5 abs model servo and master cylinder too without success. I've got a scrap disco2 I'm breaking and a discovery 300tdi that I'm breaking. could I fit the abs module from the discovery2 to my 90? and use the axles of the 300 tdi discovey? will the disco2 abs ecu be able to read 300tdi abs censors? Would I be able to fit the flywheel censor of the disco 2 for the ecu engine speed censor? or has someone made a module to convert alternator W sine wave onto suitable square wave for the ecu? I thought if I'm going to the effort of fitting ABS I may as well try and get the TC and hill decent to work as well. I've got axles sat here with upgraded internals and arb lockers but this is for my towing and work vehicle not an outright rip up the mud play toy. I don't mind the work involved and I don't see I have much expense as I have all the major components here in working order.

the giggle pin ones look the same but are wired differently to gigglepin spec this is so it can be mounted onto the end of the winch motor without wires having to cross over each other.

I always cut off the section that cranks out to make the sleeve, have a simple jig to transfer the measurement of new chassis extension to the original chassis. I think it's always best to try and keep as much of the original chassis as possible. I sleeve the join internally and try and make it that you cant see my repair, I do about 12, 90 rear cross-members a year I have a supplier of rear cross-members that fit well and look damn near original. The amount more they are than britpart is well worth it as I don't have to spend extra time making them fit.

iI you want factory look I'd spend £70? at ashcroft and buy the adapter to fit your lt77 gear lever housing onto the r380 gearbox, use the disco front prop and get a 300 tdi rear prop. I have just done a 90 for my self, all the little bits to make it look original make it into a bigger and more expensive job than expected. I'd have been better off buying a complete donor defender rather than the disco I had.

changed sender and added centre wire used britpart YBE100530G was vdo in the box. works a treat :-) now to work out why my fuel gauge is giving strange low readings.

ages later.... Just getting round to doing this conversion on a vehicle of mine. Is the 300 discovery speedo sender the same as a td5 defender one? the discovery gearbox loom only uses 2 wires in the 3 pin plug.

I had a K reg 200tdi disco the flanges were thin and the shafts were definitely 10 spline, flange thickness is a guide but not gospel.

we had to use our hi lift as a winch as a part of a challanger comp we won as our hi lift was clean and in perfect working order and loads of them were gummed up with dirt I still would not recommend it though

seen a few seized ever but have been able to wiggle them loose though, I think it happens more on vehicles that only potter about, i.e. where the waste gate doesn't get used often. I tend to think setting max boost to 15psi is best for reliability.

spray both uj's on the steering column to the steering box with loads of wd40 or similar if this helps the steering take the column off and un-seize the uj's and oil liberally if there is wear consider replacing them,

I wouldn't worry about using oil that had been stored for a long time. I would shake it before use as some oils have additives and I guess they could separate if standing for a long time. I have had a drum of engine oil that I ended up not using as it got water into it somehow? metal tins and condensation could be something to think about. If it's for a landrover I wouldn't worry about storage as it will get used soon enough :-)

pic looks like a series lightweight hybrid. not a very complete rear cross member. I wander how they got on with insurance?

Gwyn sells all parts individually as you need them

when people say they don't need longer articulation because they have lockers they don't realize that using lockers in a situation where open diffs and better articulation would do the same job they are forcing their drive train to do double the amount of work. I believe that slightly firmer dislocating springs are more stable than long soft springs as the spring is not trying to push you over when you are on a slope. Remember articulation is not fully governed by the spring but has factors from the dampers(shocks) and suspension geometry not forgetting choice of bush.

I regularly weld up landrovers and have found those that are regularly washed underneath even without adding any extra paint or rust prevention are in far better condition than those with rust preventative measures left with mud covering the chassis, I think a clean chassis gets wet and dries off, a muddy chassis gets wet and stays wet. I think moisture is a major requirement for either rust or electrolytic corrosion.

I think this also changes the regs regarding the low emission zone in London as I know someone who has deliberately bought a 12 seater landrover to get round this

non car derived vans speed limit of 50 on A roads. Car derived vans speed limit of 60 on A roads Car-derived’ vans weigh no more than 2 tonnes when loaded and are based on car designs, for example: Ford Fiesta van Vauxhall Astra van Fiat Punto van Peugot 207 van Renault Clio van http://www.direct.go...RE=speed_limits This means you might not get a speed ticket with a fixed camera but could get a speed ticket from a man using a mobile camera as he is slightly more lightly to tell the difference between a car derived van or not. My landrover weighed in at 2.5 tonnes when fully kitted out for a winch challenge.

The assist is a kit aimed to assist the steering but still fit to a totally standard set up. When this kit was first made up it was intentionally made to be able to fit it in your driveway without any specialist kit or knowledge. The kit does not modify the original power steering unit in standard form so allowing things to be returned to standard if needed. The Gwyn lewis hydro assist ram is intentionally small (low level assistance) for several reasons:- when it is being used without modifying other steering components the available oil flow is limited so a larger ram adversely affects steering speed. the assist ram is not intended to totally transform the vehicle steering ability but mainly reduce the strain on the power steering box(prevent shaft twisting/oil leaks) Not being able to turn the steering wheel was considered better than constantly breaking track rod ends. As the kit uses factory standard fitting positions the strength of this fitting was dubious on older vehicles. The kit was possibly going to be fitted to vehicles driven on the road. There are loads of people who would like a hydro assist kit to suit their bespoke application, in fact several years ago you could buy a kit that consisted of a larger bore ram, a set of tabs for you to weld to your steering and weld to your chassis, and a pair of hydraulic hoses. It was then up to you to do the fabrication work and drill and tap your steering box. It was considered that if you were up for doing that type of fabrication/fitting work you would more than likely be capable of sourcing the necessary parts yourself. Bespoke fitting would mean that each kit would be different so holding any stock would be difficult. I hope this answers some questions.

possibly a wheel bearing gone? As you travel the wobbly wheel/disc pushes the brake pads out further than usual so requires a pump of the brake pedal to push the pads up to the disc first. usually if there is a servo problem the pedal gets really hard relative to the quality of brakes.

a week or two ago I dismantled a discovery R380 swapped the gear change selector shaft and fork for defender items and re assembled the box. I have got a very good puller that clamps tightly over the part that has to be removed on the rear shaft. I think the R380 is a little easier to work on than the lt77 but I wouldn't want to fix gearboxes for a living. Took me about 2 hours to do and cost about £90 in parts. As I have a dead discovery in the yard and want to build a defender this was the cheapest way of getting the correct box for my defender project.

have a chat with Dan Elias "wrex racing" he had a fin type oil cooler with an integrated fan fitted to the oil line of his auto box challenge truck. I have no idea where he got it from but it looked very smart.

hope you have got proper sealed rivets and not normal ones or you'll turn your roof into a sieve !!!

my contractor neighbor tows his discovery behind his self propelled forage harvester with a sturdy home made A frame and permanent hefty hinges attached to his discovery front end so he has transport home whilst away.

A T handle free spool lever is the type usually found on a newer 8274-50 although the parts are interchangeable so it is no guarantee. The newer 8274-50 has a slightly smoother surface on the brake assembly, these can be swapped round but not so simple. In my opinion condition ranks far higher than age for these winches. Without dismantling the top cover or hearing and seeing the winch working it is always going to be a gamble on the condition of the winch. Rusted or damaged internal gears and damage to the main casing are the main things to look out for in my opinion. I would budget on replacing the winch motor and solenoid unless you can get guarantees on their age and history, plus a genuine albright solenoid of the right spec will prove to be more reliable (there are several different specs of what look like the same albright solenoid) All parts are available (at a price) have a look on gigglepin web site. I would still rather take a gamble on a second hand 8274 than buy a new low line winch though.

no lt77 does not bolt to a 300 tdi unless you have changed the 300 tdi bell housing or some one previous?