robhybrid

not to worry I was told a brand new engine minus loom and ecu was less than £1000 a couple of years ago

Loads of good info note prices are approximate as of Feb 2011

so you then need pump, pump drive,clutch assembly,oil tank, pipework, filter assembly, one way valve ,pressure gauge.£? I know you need alternators £100-£200, alternator bracket and belt £50, battery's x2 £150-£300, cabling £30-£100, isolators £15-£60, albrights x 2 £40-£100. So electric on top of winch could be additional £385-£810 depending on resourcelessness, quality of parts and preferred finished spec. obviously you could put a winch on and leave everything std and just cable direct to battery but it wouldn't be up to comp spec. it would be suitable for occasional recovery/road vehicle.

I would love to see a hydraulic set up using a separate engine to the drive wheels so that enough power to stop the engine from stalling whilst drive assist does not affect the winching and vice versa. I am confident that we shall see a lot more development on hydraulic set ups in the near future...

The new shocks have a plastic shroud rather than metal, I cant see any reason why you should want to take the plastic shroud off?

out of interest whilst at the autosport show the other week there was a rotrex tts performance supercharger stand that had a Honda type r engine stock hp 175 at the wheels that they uprated to 365 at the wheels.using twin Superchargers. Is the type r 2 litre? Just for £3750 + vat diy fitment, and a small note about highly recommending the use of uprated rods and pistons if being used for competition use.

I moved a lathe a few years ago by making a steel frame, jacking up the lathe with a farm jack and putting it on the frame then used my winch to pull it across the garden then up my ramps and onto my trailer. Damaged ramps slightly but got job done. We couldn't get a vehicle within 25' of the lathe as they had built a conservatory in the way.

So how many forum members are going? Any plans on at least saying Hi when you are there?

Years ago 100hp per litre was talked about as a magical figure difficult to beat I remember reading vissard? books on tuning engines.

apparently in unmodified form the 200 and 300 have similar power and similar torque the 200 tdi develops itd torque lower in the rev range though. Both engines are tunable? I have been assured that the 300 tdi has far more scope for power improvement without expensive modification than the 200 though. Given the choice 200/300/izusu I would probably go 300 though The Izusu may be more reliable? in my experiance. p.s I have see 2 different types of turbo fitted To Izusu I think the Frontera engine Izusu had loads of differences.

how about using the switch to operate a 5 pin relay and then using the centre pin as your output?

To add to confusion I have had a discovery (K reg) that had slim end caps held on with m10 bolts (17mm head) that were 10 spline. I had always assumed slim end caps were 24 spline. Mushroom or Thick end caps 10 spline. My rear axle is a old axle casing with new axle casing stubs and hubs to get the right length to suit my strengthened half shafts. I heard of an orange supplier years ago selling someone a arb and shafts only for the customer to ruin the diff and shafts within days, on inspection the shafts were only engaging by about 1/4" or so.

I would be quite confident that it would be quicker and easier to remove a riveted panel than a bolted one.in this application. Bolts would need 2 people one inside one outside. Rivets should easily form a waterproof joint. Bolts will still require some form of seal. Proper bodge done by me loads tech screws.......

I am sure at college years ago we managed to improve the performance of a test engine by wrapping the exhaust in thermal insulation wrap.

unfortunately I didn't get to see this cart in action or hear any reports on how such a suspension set up performed. Looking forward to hearing your opinions Bill, Seasons greetings.

basically its on a limited mileage agricultural use tax class. The rules re as per agricultural vehicles (tractors) As are quite probably thousands of old 4x4s around the country. As for the MOT I don't think it is required but should you have an accident You would need to prove the vehicle is in a roadworthy condition. Most farmers I know who use their tax exempt 4x4 on the road still get them mot'd for this reason. You could always take out the back seats fit some fancy bit of equipment and tax your vehicle as mobile plant I think they are tax exempt and mot exempt. as for tax exempt discoverys A garage less than 20miles from me once re shelled a tax exempt range rover with a discovery chassis. I think there are a handful of these around. Nowadays I think it would be worth more with its original body.

yes sorry with engine running

engine not running battery voltage as low as 9v (much lower engine may not start). as cranking engine voltage would drop by how much depends on the size of your battery and power of your starter motor. with engine running initially voltage will return to pre starting voltage then rise to between 13.8-14.2 volts alternator has died or there is a strange external load on battery if you do not see the voltage rise. check quality of earth on engine and alternator, quality of live to alternator. with one terminal of multimeter on alternator casing and other on battery neg the volt meter should read 0v. with one terminal of multimeter on alternator live and other on battery poss the volt meter should read 0v. if the readings are above 0 then there is a fault with that line. with engine not running and ing on the ign light should be on in cab and should go off when the engine is running. If the ign light is not on with ign on then take ign wire off back of the alt and touch it against a good neg source the light should come on if not check bulb first then wiring.

merry Christmas

Gwyn Lewis does a conversion kit for discoverys to convert to a std rear prop this kit is a replacement diff drive flange and nut and the appropriate prop.(I am sure others sell the bits too, couldn't quote part no. off my head) I have got some 300 tdi disco axles that I am going to use on a defender and I intend on taking the 3 bolt flange off and replacing it with a std prop flange, I might change the oil seal while I am at it. removing the 3 bolt flange thing and the center boss has been discussed on here recently, some people find they come off easy and some people struggle, I think that thee center pin is the issue if you want to take it off without damage.(not an issue in your case as you would be throwing that bit away) I am sure someone will put a link to the post I am talking about. front diff is a std 4 bolt prop connection, you might be best advised to use the disco hockey sticks,wider possibly better bushes?(depending on application). I would use the 90 track rods(or change to sumo bars).

added to my bookmarks especially as the engine and autobox for my next project is :- h reg mr2 series 2 rev1?

I would be interested to know the answer to this one. I think the rear hoop and stays are considered the main roll over protection and everything else is considered to be extra so not as critical, but I am interested to see a reply from someone who knows..... I intend on starting to weld my buggy in the near future. my rear stays are straight, it is just that the chassis comes up a long way to meet them. my rear hoop leans back somewhat and then has extra bracing. I don't intend on having a front hoop but 2 door aperture type hoops with a connecting bar at the top and middle. I am entering a minefield I know, I have visions of numerous modifications before I am totally happy.

I have got a IW 16 foot triple axle and I am really happy with how it tows very stable at speed I have however had numerous tyre failures more than I ever had with my previous tandem axle trailer. I put this down to the tyres not coping with the heat generated by motorway journeys running at higher speeds. I do have to run with my tow hitch higher than expected and with the load further forward than expected in order for me to be able to tow at speed stable. I am sure you can "legally" tow more weight with a tandem axle trailer than triple, my argument is that it is not unusual for me to be over loaded (max load on my trailer is 2400kg with trailer weighing 1100kg) and with a triple axle trailer the load doesn't look as badly overloaded.with ivor williams I think a 3rd axle reduces towing capacity by 110kg? I know for sure that a triple axle trailer takes more pulling than a double axle trailer and I have seen this in back to back difference in fuel consumption. As I intend on towing less weight in the future I would change my triple axle trailer for a tandem axle in the future.

does that mean you could buy off them if for example you were to imply you wanted them for a toyota?

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