robhybrid

I am thinking of building something a bit like this:- sort of front view Rear view Side view not mine I havent started yet just sourcing parts at the moment

thanks for the photos the complete vehicle cage set up isn't a million miles of what I have got planned. It has got me thinking a little. can anyone tell me the advantage or disadvantage of the axle moving in an ark with the suspension landrover front or 1 link, compared to the axle moving parallel landrover rear or multi link? could I do reverse A bushed to pivot at the axle end with 2 links above similar to above photo? or a modified landrover rear upper A. Has this got a advantage over reverse A fixed solid to the back axle? I want to see if I can make the bottom of the reverse A into a skid so I don't have to worry about the axle getting caught in rocks or tree roots I could winch over regardless.

I compete in winch challenge events and intend on doing a few trials in the future I want the back to be more than capable and for me to be able to put a limit by my own straps. I like the idea of the front being tighter than the back as I generally drive forward over obstacles and if the vehicle tends to move with the front axle I am more likely to get a feel for the vehicles limitations before it is too late. I firmly believe that the more supple the suspension, the less stress there is on the half shafts/ drive line. I want to use the lockers to help me out when winching not a switch on and forget. I am keeping lr axles because I have already got them along with tires. I intend on my whole budget being less than what a new set of axles and tires would cost. I hope with the reduced vehicle weight the axles wont be under as much strain.

I am about to build a buggy as I have wrecked my 90 in 5 years of winch challenge. Has anybody got any tips on suspension set up I am looking for silly articulation, possibly limited with a winch to axle. I have fancies for 1 link/reverse A possibly with a watts linkage across the back and with a panhad rod across the front. I know Chris Abel had missing link on the front of his old portal axled rr -now Kevs. Everybody seems to favor 4 link but I like the under body protection of reverse A. What are the advantages and disadvantages? I have heard that Reverse A can tend to self steer, was hoping to fix with watts likage. For silly articulation is my only option one of X eng's joints, front not as severe might use a landrover a frame joint. Is there a larger version of the X eng Joint available or what else will allow silly twist plus up and down movement plus have a little rubber type give. My buggy will use landrover axles and 35" simex as I already have them, I intend on trying to keep the finished weight below 1000kg. The buggy will only have low box so max speed 40? Hopefully getting a new phone with camera in the next few weeks so I might do a build wright up when I get started.

depends on how you fit longer shocks i.e weather you do it right and suitably alter the turret to match the shock. But I have run +5 shocks without the need for spring retainers on the front of my 90 whilst using it for winch challenge. if you use shorter/stronger springs or set the shocks up (in my opinion wrong) so that thay have masses of droop but bottom out on compression(needing longer bump stops) then spring retainers and possibly spring relocators on the front may be needed. on my whinch challenge vehicle at full articulation only my drivers side front spring dislocates by about 10 mm, the passenger side one goes loose enough that I can just about move it but does not dislocate. my springs are ome and give approximately 2"lift.

yes plus replace solenoids/albright for 12v I have bought a couple of 8274's in the past cheaper with 24v moors and changed motor and albright for 12v

first show of 2011 then?

I have done 5 isuzu engine to series gearbox conversions and yes one of my customers managed to kill his box after 3 years, these were road vehicles with nothing more aggressive than 31" tyres. I have also done 4 conversions to short bell housing (early 90) lt 77 gearoxes one of which went into a series. I have done one to a long bell housing lt77 and moved the engine forward appropriately. my off roader uses a isuzu coupled to an auto box. I have sen a 110 running an isuzu engine and box. the 3.1 isuzu transfer box has a drive flange output rather than slide in coupling, this would be ideal for conversion to a x eng hand brake.

(Prizes will also be awarded to the 1st, 2nd and 3rd in each class. No competitor may win more than one prize. In the event of a tie, the competitor with the highest score at the final round will be the winner.) should I be second in class 2? or am I looking at the wrong score table?

for tom tom the nearest post code (according to streetmap.co.uk) is :- BN18 0NB

Found yellow news letter. Missed it when I looked before although I had read vehicles must be equipped with 2 forward facing white lights and 2 rearward facing red lights. start time:- Sat 7pm Sun 9:30AM

I am running a Izusu coupled up to a v8 auto box, I have got a chance of a dead 300tdi auto box.(a clutch gone? no forward gears) mate of mine has just bought a relatively good condition disco to have the engine out of it. would I benifit anything from chopping and changing components between the 2? I am looking at using the end vehicle on the road over winter -next 6 months ish. Is the stall speed on the 300 tdi torque converter different? to v8 Is the auto box Governor different is it interchangeable? my v8 one sometimes sticks in 1st before changing up.

2 pole needs to run at 3000rpm to bet 50hZ you could be better off finding a 4 pole alternator as it needs 1500 rpm not usually found in small alternators 6 pole run at 1000rpm.

3.75/4.75 oops

what time do we need to be there for? when till when is the night stage? will it be like earlier this year? in groups? I will be there hope not to be late this time.

changing to 3.75 crown wheel and pinion? these were just about strong enough for a series landrover, I have tried kam strengthened 3.7 cr and p and broke them plus getting spares was slow. a mate of mine runs his izusu powered 90 with 1.2 transfer and 33"tyres and he loves it but he has a 110 for towing.

A while ago I purchased a 300tdi engine from someone who is appearing to be whiter than white commenting on here. when I got it home the engine numbers had been ground off, I sold it on but made this point clear to the person who bought it off me............... when somebody gets on their high horse ringer/stolen/tax dodge etc, I usually think to myself people in glass houses shouldn't throw stones.

if you add the dave bowyer free spool device(so you only pull out what you need) I guess the pull speed under load isn't too far off warn. Jim(gigglepin) has done/been involved with speed improvements with low line winches though. The low line winch is a way of getting into it without spending silly money and if you decide to go further the low line is a good rear or center winch once you have a fancy one up front. in my opinion the low line winch is more suited to being left on the front of a vehicle for long periods without use than the 8274. I have bought loads of second hand 8274 winches ever and as long as you take into account that you are almost bound to have to purchase a new motor, albright and possibly brakes the rest is reasonably strong. Jim stocks re-build kits of various descriptions so repair is almost always possible.

No but I have heard loads of people complaining about them. I was contemplating possibly making my own hybrid axles using just the drop box. Was thinking portals on a budget. Interested in knowing the drop box gear ratio before going any further than vapor build. another idea for vapor build was 4wd tractor front axles with huge tyres? Just thought portal might allow me to keep my old tyres.

does anyone on hear now the gear ratio of the drop box on simca axles?

years ago at a factory I worked at the lorry driver complained his ford cargo was sluggish after its mot, turns out one of the fitters had stuck a piece of wood under the carpet in line with the throttle pedal before it went for mot, I thought replacing a dirty air filter with a clean one would make a huge difference on diesel emissions?

if I off road in high rather than low mine does it bulk head shouldnt rot for a while now, but I think it was entirely down to me getting the oil too hot

back on track I am sure I read somewhere that a new rope has a given strength and a butt spliced rope is reduced in strength by a % cant remember how much though. I have splice repaired my ropes numerous times though. I currently use 12mm bowrope and unless I am silly cruel get at least 1 year (10ish) of challenge events out of it. 11mm tended to do 3 ish twin bow motor and a heavy truck

have a chat with Gwyn he stocks both scala bluetoth types and uses them he would be happy for you to play with them either at a show or one of the howling wolf events, he also has had a lot to do with cb's and a little to do with vox sets

I have seen these in person and they look great. Personally I think that if I were to do the welding work to make these pots I would want to be paid the asking price for that before adding the cost of materials. Just a thought how much extra to tee in a drain tap to the pump feed side so you don't get soaked when you go to change the oil filter? Would it be possible to have some form of pressure/vacuum (lack of flow) switch that would show the filter was blocked?