Jump to content

teabag

Settled In
  • Posts

    1,209
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    1

Everything posted by teabag

  1. Ho dear, but it is a symptom of the “spider” going faulty… if the either the engine didn’t crank or if petrol there’s no spark at the plugs, Whe the spider starts playing up the ‘unable to start’ gets more frequent, my immobiliser did for 8 months even disembarking from a ferry, and a month the finally gave up on the outside lane of a motorway… So what was it no cranking or ignition with a petrol engine, of If diesel then it cranking or fuel.
  2. Some pictures of the MFU I posted in this thread a few years ago. https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/multi-function-unit.64509/
  3. Following the procedure it should go straight into the diagnostic function, very strange when things start working on their own.
  4. Any faults will identify as the one or more of the items shown in the diagnostic list that isn’t functioning. Also maybe the red illumination around the ignition switch isn’t there. The mfu is at the rear of the fuse board, two fiddly screws, iirc, to remove the board then unplug a lead or two and turn the board to reveal the mfu, there’s enough slack in the loom to do that, then remove the lead from the mfu and pull it to unplug. It was way back in 2011 when I had to replace my faulty mfu.
  5. There a diagnostic test that’s available to check the items that it’s associated with.
  6. The part the MFU plays is the intermittent wiper delay timing but only when that function is switched on. Plus theres few other things like the headlamp washer operation sequence and interior lighting delay.
  7. At the motor check u 12v supply that will be a black/ green wire. The brown/light green is from the wiper relay, black wire of course is earth.
  8. The park switch is within the wiper motor housing, so if your motor has a detachable cover remove the screws and look inside.
  9. Its not impossible for the wiper switch position to be faulty with the contact stuck in a made position, so further investigation with a multi meter is required. Below is a diagram taking from LRs electrical workshop manual for the D1, which is available on-line.
  10. The first time I started my V8s engine after fitting the Janspeed system the idle speed went at 2000rpm for around two minutes the dropped down to the usual around 750rpm thanks to the ECM doing the adjustment. The system is still fitted and is definitely fit & forget.
  11. They can easily contribute to an engine misfire, such as misinformation to the management system on the air fuel ratio as an example.
  12. As the engine has full electronic management system and even linked to the auto gear box if fitted, the needs to be plug into a diagnostic test kit to give u an idea of what is what. Iffy o2 sensor are notorious for issues, the same as the other sensors for that matter.
  13. Why not remove the sealing strip, shown as no.3, clean and u may find the area of leak and reseal, then refit a new sealing strip if necessary. Strip: LR part number MXC8199 strip facia to windscreen sealing. Is LRs description. 1994-5 it all changed to the 300 series with the MA 081991
  14. I had a contractor at work that had a newish D1 200tdi so it was a few years a go, he had an issue with the light being permanent on, even after following the various procedures and advice giving, but soon after we heard he has crashed the disco on a roundabout which put him in hospital. We didn’t see him much after that, I still wonder if it was the locked diff locked or just his speed or both going around the roundabout as he did say he had trouble getting round but really didn’t know. Perhaps thats why LR state see your dealer as soon as poss if the diff lock light doesn’t extinguish.
  15. This is what is stated in my D 1 owners handbook, it seem simples enough, as ive has never had to use diff lock in my 33 years of LR ownership.
  16. Just add the switch and of course system programming is required. http://www.discovery2.co.uk/cruise_install.html
  17. Welcome to the forum. Engine stalling can be a result of a very dirty/blocked crankcase breather (flame trap), so remove and clean by soaking in petrol also check and clean, if required, the pipe to the plenum chamber.
  18. 1. Theres no electrical link from the edc system to the auto gearbox 2. Brand new D1 diesels on a test drive so I purchased a petrol engine disco. 3. The 1996MY diesel D1 was given an engine power increase (edc) to compensate for the loss through the auto gearbox, due to poor performance feedback from owners of the 1995MY autos... So Tdi manual 91mph auto 90mph, also similar with acceleration 0.3 seconds faster 0-60 for the Tdi auto, therefore manual and edc auto D1 are very similar in performance. Both in my opinion are sluggish.
  19. Depends of the vehicle, off-roading mud and floods frequently. Street use ones a year which I do only takes 5/10 mins.
  20. OK Welcome to the forum. The air con kit behind the dashboard is identical for both Petrol or Diesel vehicles. The V8 has a valve to cut off the coolant to the heater matrix when a/c turned down to cold, the diesel doesn’t thats the only difference. I’ve never looked at a D1 without a/c so hopefully the number of dash vents is the same, (for the early RR it wasn’t) you will require the a/c dash switches, that about it, wiring diagrams and relays are available, most of the install will be mechanical Years ago, early 90s, the LROi magazine converted a RR by transferring parts from a scrap RR standing along side, it took a week with two guys on the job. They later suggested that an aftermarket a/c install is the way to go, something was available back then. Anyway the best of luck removal of the dash, it looks challenging from what ive seen on the www.
  21. Not that hard when u have a 1997 D1 thats never required welding sitting in your drive. 😀
  22. Something similar to this product https://www.frost.co.uk/brushable-seam-sealer/
  23. Why not also replace all the fluid at the same time.
  24. Not all 3.9s have one but that’s a symptom of an iffy ‘spider’ immobilise. I put up with it for six months, even wouldn’t start when disembarking from a cross channel ferry, the a few minutes it started and was ok for the rest the day, until later another day the engine cut out in the third lane at 70ish. Time to fix, one of the spiders functions is to cut the 12v supply to the coil, so I installed a single wire from the ignition switched supply where it enters the fuse board, then following the existing loom across the engine, protected of course, to the coil top. So its just an ‘overlay’ to the existing wire so no need to go anywhere near the spider. Also a blocked crankcase breather can stall the engine.
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We use cookies to ensure you get the best experience. By using our website you agree to our Cookie Policy