teabag

Not that difficult you will have to remove two security bolts by tapping a chisel to undo so you will need bolt replacements, sometimes the existing barrel can be repaired ( vehicle locksmith) which is better than having two keys instead of one, So if you change the barrel then you need, a blade cut to fit fob, the rest of the fob can be reused and still function as normal after being fitted with the replacement blade.

Umm… so what series D1 has a return pipe ? and how does that work, as my D1 just has the single high pipe from the pump to both washer jets on the bumper. And follows Bear’s link to the washer layout.

Well as the disco forum appears not very active now. 🙁

My 3.5 V8 RR was just as it left the showroom, standard other lamp guards for my 10 years of ownership just as they should be 🙂And my 3.9 V8 disco hasn’t had any over heating issues in the 27 + years of my ownership and fitted with driving lamps and A bar on the front, and it has A/C so the engine bay does get hot when in use on a hot summers day 🙂 As mentioned, if you have a cooling system working 100% it will be okay.

I thought everyone knows that autos don’t have a need for wading plugs, due the them not having a clutch, much the same if your engine was petrol because it would have a timing chain, and not a timing belt.

Oh dear the OP hasn’t been seen since 2011. 🤔 Just to add theres other wires for the selector illumination.

Its there to remind the driver that the key is still remaining in the ignition switch when the drivers door is open, if you don't like it remove the key. To permanently remove that function, cut the white wire that links the ignition switches micro switch to the MFU. The buzzer also serves to remind u that the lights are on when the door is opened.

Its not that involved LR like any other manufacturer plug their dedicated diagnostic kit to take the keys info and then tell the security ecu to erase the lost key and to accept the new one, then program a the replacement. Cost 300 - 350 via LR main dealer using a genuine part, but here in the uk there’s a lot of of small companies that with a van and the diagnostic kit in the back will visit you and even supply an identical fob, all you get from is “call us for a quote” on their site.

Had a look today at the two fuses after dropping the glove box and found that both fuses are 30amp, a bit a bit high for each fog lamp, so if not fog lamps then they must be for the heated windscreen.

You will find two stand alone fuses in the passenger footwell, so side by side and not fitted to a fuse board… strange I know. You may be able to access them above the relays and ecu’s in that area, but may find better access above if you drop forward the glove box. That is where they are on my 1997 D1, found when looking for a water leak🤔

Well there were two Phillips head units around that time, one with an LCD display which will display CODE and one without LCD and will display CODE IN, so none display SECURITY. So what head unit do u have.? The attachment shows the procure for the LCD unit which also controls a 6 disc CD player and which my 97 disco had when left the factory, the copy i’ve taken of whats stated in the owners handbook. I now have a Pioneer system fitted and is far superior to the Philips kit. Forget the unplugged overnight of placing the unit in a fridge… it doesn’t work, the head unit needs power to unlock after the delay, also note the ldelay duration doubles each time a wrong code is entered so try and not make an error.

That ended with the mid 1995 with the intro of new 300 series. The OP has a 1997 disco, I’ve owned mine for the last 25 years… so as already stated electrical pulses from the transducer.

A specialist in speedo repair company may able, but its electronic and receives electronic pulses from a transducer screwed to the vehicles transfer box.

So how is that going to work? A 1997 disco doesn’t have a cable.

If water is getting into the drain channels, thats if your lucky as they are only positioned at the front of the sunroof, then your vehicle a faulty class seal, simples. But there’s also a frame to roof seal that is well known to have issues and then water will go straight onto the headliner. The drains are only to take water runoff, if wet when the glass is tilted, hence positioned at the front only.

‘Kick down’ is where the gearbox can drop a couple of ratios at a time if necessary and is different to the normal dropping down a single ratio one at a time. Anyway it seems like your describing what is called ‘flare’ which is more than likely a fault with the box. But a fluid and the filter screen replacement may help, depending on when it was last done. There lots of info in the LR workshop manual which can be down loaded from various sites and worth having a copy. Below is a cut & paste of what the manual states on the symptom 7 which appears your gearbox has. SYMPTOM 4 - Slip in all forward gears Carry out main line pressure check oe No pressure FAULT - Blocked filter or pump failure oe Low pressure FAULT - Restricted filter or sticking primary regulator oe Normal pressure FAULT - Clutch ’A’ SYMPTOM 5 - Harsh engagement ’N’ to ’D’ Check engine idle speed Carry out main line pressure check oe High pressure FAULT - Primary regulator stuck oe Normal pressure FAULT - Clutch ’A’ or damper for clutch’A’ SYMPTOM 6 - Fierce shift or flare 1st to 2nd shift Check engine idle speed Carry out mainline pressure check oe High pressure FAULT - Continue with symptom 5 oe Normal pressure FAULT - Modulator valve or dampers for clutch brake CB1 and/or clutch brake CB2 FAULT - Clutch brake CB1 and/or clutch brake CB2 SYMPTOM 7 - Fierce shift or flare 2nd to 3rd Carry out mainline pressure check oe High pressure FAULT - Continue with symptom 5 oe Normal pressure FAULT - Modulator valve or clutch ’B’ damper FAULT - Clutch ’B’

EEQ500010 Is the correct seal. STC773 is for the earlier sunroof, the glass lifted out then I believe.

The attached wiring diagrams should show what u need to know. The first three are from the D1 electrical manual and the last one is a photo of a diagram in in my Haynes manual.

A stand alone sounder can be fitted as its original equipment for some markets, or reinstall the the UK battery backed up sounder (BBUS) if u have one, if the loom/connection is still there. Info on both are in the D1 electrical troubleshooting manual. For the stand alone sounder diagram below… f1 fuse for the supply, relay, ground at the alarm ecu, plus a sounder switched by the relay, so simples.

There u go. https://legionlandrover.com/manuales/manual de taller discovery (95).pdf

Here details of all the fuses on the internal fuse board.

Ho dear, but it is a symptom of the “spider” going faulty… if the either the engine didn’t crank or if petrol there’s no spark at the plugs, Whe the spider starts playing up the ‘unable to start’ gets more frequent, my immobiliser did for 8 months even disembarking from a ferry, and a month the finally gave up on the outside lane of a motorway… So what was it no cranking or ignition with a petrol engine, of If diesel then it cranking or fuel.

Some pictures of the MFU I posted in this thread a few years ago. https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/multi-function-unit.64509/

Following the procedure it should go straight into the diagnostic function, very strange when things start working on their own.

Any faults will identify as the one or more of the items shown in the diagnostic list that isn’t functioning. Also maybe the red illumination around the ignition switch isn’t there. The mfu is at the rear of the fuse board, two fiddly screws, iirc, to remove the board then unplug a lead or two and turn the board to reveal the mfu, there’s enough slack in the loom to do that, then remove the lead from the mfu and pull it to unplug. It was way back in 2011 when I had to replace my faulty mfu.