teabag
-
Posts
1,230 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
1
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Events
Gallery
Blogs
Posts posted by teabag
-
-
On 1/16/2024 at 7:24 PM, Nonimouse said:
On a D1, the head light washer has a return pipe - I believe it fits the D2 reservoir
Umm… so what series D1 has a return pipe ? and how does that work, as my D1 just has the single high pipe from the pump to both washer jets on the bumper. And follows Bear’s link to the washer layout.
-
Well as the disco forum appears not very active now. 🙁
-
My 3.5 V8 RR was just as it left the showroom, standard other lamp guards for my 10 years of ownership just as they should be 🙂
And my 3.9 V8 disco hasn’t had any over heating issues in the 27 + years of my ownership and fitted with driving lamps and A bar on the front, and it has A/C so the engine bay does get hot when in use on a hot summers day 🙂
As mentioned, if you have a cooling system working 100% it will be okay. -
I thought everyone knows that autos don’t have a need for wading plugs, due the them not having a clutch, much the same if your engine was petrol because it would have a timing chain, and not a timing belt.
-
Oh dear the OP hasn’t been seen since 2011. 🤔
Just to add theres other wires for the selector illumination.
-
Its there to remind the driver that the key is still remaining in the ignition switch when the drivers door is open, if you don't like it remove the key.
To permanently remove that function, cut the white wire that links the ignition switches micro switch to the MFU.
The buzzer also serves to remind u that the lights are on when the door is opened.
-
On 5/10/2023 at 3:04 PM, pgrbff said:
I have a 96 tdi so ignition keys are easy, but a friend of mine has been quoted 700 euro for a new key.
He has fairly recently bought a late 2018 Disco Sport 2.0 TD4 150 CV. He doesn't think he was given a second key but as he bought it from a LR dealer some distance away they told him to go to his nearest dealer and they would sort him out.
They have appeared to have told him that they need to remove the ECU to give him another key and it is going to cost euro 700.00.
Can anyone suggest why this might be the case? The key he has works perfectly well, how would they normally supply a new key? And how much would one expect to pay in the UK?
Its not that involved LR like any other manufacturer plug their dedicated diagnostic kit to take the keys info and then tell the security ecu to erase the lost key and to accept the new one, then program a the replacement.
Cost 300 - 350 via LR main dealer using a genuine part, but here in the uk there’s a lot of of small companies that with a van and the diagnostic kit in the back will visit you and even supply an identical fob, all you get from is “call us for a quote” on their site.
-
Had a look today at the two fuses after dropping the glove box and found that both fuses are 30amp, a bit
a bit high for each fog lamp, so if not fog lamps then they must be for the heated windscreen.
-
You will find two stand alone fuses in the passenger footwell, so side by side and not fitted to a fuse board… strange I know.
You may be able to access them above the relays and ecu’s in that area, but may find better access above if you drop forward the glove box.
That is where they are on my 1997 D1, found when looking for a water leak🤔
-
On 2/7/2023 at 6:34 PM, ClintClint said:
Hi I also have a 1996 disco. The radio displays security. I have tried all of the above with no joy. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks.
Well there were two Phillips head units around that time, one with an LCD display which will display CODE and one without LCD and will display CODE IN, so none display SECURITY. So what head unit do u have.?
The attachment shows the procure for the LCD unit which also controls a 6 disc CD player and which my 97 disco had when left the factory, the copy i’ve taken of whats stated in the owners handbook. I now have a Pioneer system fitted and is far superior to the Philips kit.
Forget the unplugged overnight of placing the unit in a fridge… it doesn’t work, the head unit needs power to unlock after the delay, also note the ldelay duration doubles each time a wrong code is entered so try and not make an error.
-
3 hours ago, Nonimouse said:
Those that have a transducer still have a drive to the transducer. No transducer, still have a cable gearbox. Duh!
That ended with the mid 1995 with the intro of new 300 series. The OP has a 1997 disco, I’ve owned mine for the last 25 years… so as already stated electrical pulses from the transducer.
-
On 12/4/2022 at 11:13 AM, Phill S said:
Changing the speedometer in my truck with a used unit and wondering if there's a way to change the odometer to match what's coming out? It's a stock 1997 unit
Any help/ideas gratefully received!
A specialist in speedo repair company may able, but its electronic and receives electronic pulses from a transducer screwed to the vehicles transfer box.
-
On 12/6/2022 at 8:10 AM, Nonimouse said:
You can spin it over by attaching a drill to the cable. It's not ideal and you need to be careful. I would (and have) just fit the replacement and log the change of miles in the vehicle hisotry file
So how is that going to work? A 1997 disco doesn’t have a cable.
-
18 hours ago, DiscoHere said:
Yes you can but not sure it will last. I just tightened mine down on the rubber and added extra drain outlets at the rear of the sunroof and fed them out the rear of the vehicle. Not had a leak that i have noticed since
If water is getting into the drain channels, thats if your lucky as they are only positioned at the front of the sunroof, then your vehicle a faulty class seal, simples.
But there’s also a frame to roof seal that is well known to have issues and then water will go straight onto the headliner.The drains are only to take water runoff, if wet when the glass is tilted, hence positioned at the front only.
-
‘Kick down’ is where the gearbox can drop a couple of ratios at a time if necessary and is different to the normal dropping down a single ratio one at a time.
Anyway it seems like your describing what is called ‘flare’ which is more than likely a fault with the box. But a fluid and the filter screen replacement may help, depending on when it was last done.
There lots of info in the LR workshop manual which can be down loaded from various sites and worth having a copy.
Below is a cut & paste of what the manual states on the symptom 7 which appears your gearbox has.SYMPTOM 4 - Slip in all forward gears
Carry out main line pressure check
oe No pressure
FAULT - Blocked filter or pump failure
oe Low pressure
FAULT - Restricted filter or sticking primary
regulator
oe Normal pressure
FAULT - Clutch ’A’
SYMPTOM 5 - Harsh engagement ’N’ to ’D’
Check engine idle speed
Carry out main line pressure check
oe High pressure
FAULT - Primary regulator stuck
oe Normal pressure
FAULT - Clutch ’A’ or damper for clutch’A’
SYMPTOM 6 - Fierce shift or flare 1st to 2nd shift
Check engine idle speed
Carry out mainline pressure check
oe High pressure
FAULT - Continue with symptom 5
oe Normal pressure
FAULT - Modulator valve or dampers for
clutch brake CB1 and/or clutch brake CB2
FAULT - Clutch brake CB1 and/or clutch
brake CB2
SYMPTOM 7 - Fierce shift or flare 2nd to 3rd
Carry out mainline pressure check
oe High pressure
FAULT - Continue with symptom 5
oe Normal pressure
FAULT - Modulator valve or clutch ’B’ damper
FAULT - Clutch ’B’
-
EEQ500010 Is the correct seal.
STC773 is for the earlier sunroof, the glass lifted out then I believe.
-
The attached wiring diagrams should show what u need to know. The first three are from the D1 electrical manual and the last one is a photo of a diagram in in my Haynes manual.
-
On 5/9/2022 at 9:54 PM, Jim Mason said:
Looking to see if i can get original alarm working again - as i have sounder fitted with associated wiring - alarm does tripple indicator flashes when set & locks doors - single when disarmed and unlocks door...
But no sounder if doors or bonnet opened indicators just flash...
Can this be easily fixed or an alternative alarm fitted still keeping functionality.
A stand alone sounder can be fitted as its original equipment for some markets, or reinstall the the UK battery backed up sounder (BBUS) if u have one, if the loom/connection is still there. Info on both are in the D1 electrical troubleshooting manual.
For the stand alone sounder diagram below… f1 fuse for the supply, relay, ground at the alarm ecu, plus a sounder switched by the relay, so simples.
-
1
-
-
-
Here details of all the fuses on the internal fuse board.
-
Ho dear, but it is a symptom of the “spider” going faulty… if the either the engine didn’t crank or if petrol there’s no spark at the plugs,
Whe the spider starts playing up the ‘unable to start’ gets more frequent, my immobiliser did for 8 months even disembarking from a ferry, and a month the finally gave up on the outside lane of a motorway…
So what was it no cranking or ignition with a petrol engine, of If diesel then it cranking or fuel.
-
Some pictures of the MFU I posted in this thread a few years ago.
https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/multi-function-unit.64509/
-
12 hours ago, Jim Mason said:
Getting no response out of the MFU when i try & perform the diagnistic test.
Following the procedure it should go straight into the diagnostic function, very strange when things start working on their own.
-
Any faults will identify as the one or more of the items shown in the diagnostic list that isn’t functioning. Also maybe the red illumination around the ignition switch isn’t there.
The mfu is at the rear of the fuse board, two fiddly screws, iirc, to remove the board then unplug a lead or two and turn the board to reveal the mfu, there’s enough slack in the loom to do that, then remove the lead from the mfu and pull it to unplug.
It was way back in 2011 when I had to replace my faulty mfu.
And my 3.9 V8 disco hasn’t had any over heating issues in the 27 + years of my ownership and fitted with driving lamps and A bar on the front, and it has A/C so the engine bay does get hot when in use on a hot summers day 
Ignition barrel replacement ???
in Discovery Forum
Posted · Edited by teabag
Not that difficult you will have to remove two security bolts by tapping a chisel to undo so you will need bolt replacements, sometimes the existing barrel can be repaired ( vehicle locksmith) which is better than having two keys instead of one, So if you change the barrel then you need, a blade cut to fit fob, the rest of the fob can be reused and still function as normal after being fitted with the replacement blade.