teabag

That procedure is for the single button fobs only which the 200s and 95MY 300s had. First of all, how many buttons does your fob have?

Switch disconnected and removed? U don't seem to understand disco's....The wash switch function remains as its part of the wiper switch so how would the windscreen wash work if it was ??

Removing the fuse will isolate the supply to relay and therefore the pump, if u don't wish to remove the fuse then it's a good idea to insulate the pump connection plug with tape.

Fuse 4 only cuts power to the power wash relay, it's up to u in removing the fuse.

Only two Rca's, okay then a Y adaptor is what you will use. When 'sub' is selected the audio signal will be identical and mono on both channels with the higher frequencies attenuated or depending on the head unit u have that can be done from the settings, 50Hz to 125Hz for example depends on how low u wish your bass, as well what the loudspeaker can handle.

The simple answer is NO.

Bass uses both channels as its mono, so use the dedicated preamplifier output from the head unit, also are u sure your head unit a "sub input" normally it's only outputs for audio as is the L &R channels

This is why there was a warning note stating 'leave the box in neutral' when idling was in my old 3.5s owners handbook, although there's no mention now in the disco's owners handbook but it's something I still do if I ever leave the engine idling for more than a few minutes, a habit I've retained after 27 years of LR auto ownership plus a modern car I also drive now along with the disco.So do know the procedure in checking the fluid level, I've never had to refill the box though.

Why?? The fluid quantity is still the same with the selector in N as it is P.

So don't bother with the 5th cylinder then? LoL

This Forum link may help http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f8/discovery-2-climate-control-illumination-bulb-options-258545.html

If it not brittle remove the rubber cover, the down to your local electronics store and find a a similar bulb, some bulbs just have tails so u can reuse the existing base, then reuse the your existing cover. Better to use this link for the pt no. And search locally I would have thought http://www.allbrit.de/NAV.cfm?SPRACHE=EN&PAGE=536838

Ok its a 1995MY disco, so... Hope u dont have any expensive issues with it. I could understand your excited and can't wait if was a 2015MY disco from main dealer, not with a 20 year old disco Loi..

Looks similar to my alternator.

It looks similar and the discription states disco. http://www.brit-car.co.uk/product.php/233670/5497/alternator_120amp_v8_disco_rr

There's one on eBay starting at 99p search eBay 'Land rover Discovery car radio out of 1996 disco'.

Just the two relays, wash/wipe and normal the multifunction unit looks after the wipe delay, speed, depending on the column switch position. Perhaps u need to get an auto electrician to do the job for you if as u say "cant get my head around it" ..

When it left the factory it was behind the drivers kick panel, it the same relay that's used for both mirror heaters.

Try this link http://www.discovery2.co.uk/faultsandfixes.html

Mirrors if u say so, but the means of controlling the central locking/alarm/ immobiliser functions are different between the 200 and 300' so just swap over the 200 door wiring loom, complete with the lock micro switches... Simples Due to updated specs all wiring colours will be different but as you should be re-using the 200s door wiring so no probs.

Well unless the original connection in the main lighting loom has be touched it should be ok, although maybe worth a look for corrosion there, ok if you don't have the boot seats, a pain if u have.

Resistance is ohms not watts, if you have tried a new replacement relay then perhaps the tow bar plug/ socket connection has a problem.

Perhaps it's due to the trailers bulbs not meeting the exact resistance required by the indicator relay, therefore no flashing in unison with the vehicles dash bulb so indicating a trailer lamp fault.

Yes, back in 1995 when I tried to fit an updated Pioneer head unit into my RR which has the same position as the early discos, the original factory unit was an imperial size so slightly smaller. Removing the carpet at the base of the slot and being clever with putting the wiring away at the rear of the unit and then with hard push it stayed locked fully in, only to be removed two years later when I sold the RR, and reinstalled in my disco just a few years ago linked to a new Pioneer multi CD player. If you "don't want too push hard" forget it as the the only way.

Just remove the interior trim around the glass its just a push on fit then pull down slightly the edge of the headlining and with the correct torx bit and an extension u can easily reach the screw head, there's even cut outs in the metal frame to enable the bit to access the screw head.