teabag

Do the doors lock/unlock when you push down ot pull up the door pin. The CL is part of the alarm ECU which have been known to go faulty, it can be found at the side of the glove box. I understand there are two switches in the door one CL the other Alarm.

There's the difference, removing air after replacing brake parts, U have to keep an eye on the tube until the last air bubble is expelled so a "working" eezebleed could be helpful there, or just replacing the fluid as I was doing, U only have to check that the fluid is flowing clear in to the jam jar now and again.

I've only tried to use it once, that was three years ago and the cap popped of releasing fluid all over the place, going by the instructions I was using 20psi I now understand that it would have been better if I had used 10psi. And then getting the spare wheel off, lowering the pressure, pumping it back up and refitting, bad enough having to take the back wheels off to get to the bleed nipples. None of that mucking about with a spare wheel with my one man kit, all I have to do is pump the pedal and keep an eye on the fluid level. Every one to their own. its old school for me every time with my discos brakes

Your just restoring the performance to something similar to as it was when your disco left the factory, by removing no doubt a non-maintained choked up part of the exhaust system. Your engine is not a performance engine and was never designed to be one

Mines back in it's box, placed on a shelf and that is where it's staying for ever.

That will be putting it back in it's box. As I did and went back to my old trusty one-man kit (a one way valve on the end of a plastic tube). I replaced my fluid last week the hardest part was removing the back wheels to get better access to the bleed nipples.

Nothing to do with the alarm. Just turn the ignition switch off-on to reset , simples. The info is in the owners handbook.

So not a lot then. The crankcase breather so called flame trap and it hose to the plenum chamber should be clear, in the past I've found that a bottle of injection cleaner such as Redex works smoothing out the idling therefor no stalling. Simple things first so check for air leaks and hoses to the plenum are connected ok.

It's fortunate that the OP has a petrol engine disco then. http://www.rimmerbros.co.uk/Item--i-ERR2263P

What have u checked?

Informs the engine ECU on the position of the throttle.

There was no such thing listed in the UK for the D1 and I doubt for the D2. Now days new vehicles including LRs has a "pack" listed in the option list, winter pack is one, it could be heated windscreen, heated washers , heated external mirrors on some makes, others I've seen are comfort pack, town pack and smokers pack, no doubt a few more can be added to the list. May be ... Bin = Have been

Just a 5w capless bulb (similar to the ones used in the side lights or the indicators side repeaters) according to the owners handbook.

A photo would help showing the catch u mean, there are a few nylon/hard plastic sliders and rollers that can break up if one does then one side will operate lopsided. The dot is on the motor (yellow paint) and the main driving wheel and is factory set so unless the motor has been touched and now not inline, then u will have an issue with the sliding operation.

First u will need a compatible head unit that excepts the signal from the steering wheel controls and also fitted with a pre-amplified output for each of amps, u have, then u will need a specific ISO patch lead or two (which are available) to interface your head unit to the vehicle. So yes plug & play and no cutting of wires. You may have an existing amplifier for the cab loudspeakers and also one for the bass amp in the back door depending on the model spec of your disco.

If u have the skill and u know what u are doing then there's no "hassle" and it's a straight forward job even with patch leads and existing amps.

You'll know when your getting there when it looks like this.. looks like brain damage to me

The selector panel illuminates as soon as the starter switch is in position II, just slide the black surround forward to unclip and u will see two bulb holders one each side.

I know my 3.5 didn't

I have them on another car I own. Just Google alloy tyre valves as there a few styles used, are they something like this this e-bay link http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/4-Bolt-Chrome-Metal-Car-Wheel-Tyre-Valves-Fit-Alloys-Dust-Caps-Schrader-/190888498132?_trksid=p3284.m263&_trkparms=algo%3DSIC%26its%3DI%26itu%3DUCI%252BIA%252BUA%252BFICS%252BUFI%26otn%3D21%26pmod%3D310320108435%26ps%3D54

Both your alternatives are the same thing, the standard circuit (lights on open the door buzzer sounds) the buzzer u show is ok and will do the job but some Piezo sounders have a better tone so will sound a bit better or even a micro sounder with a bit of electronics to give u a two tone sound ...posh 300 series 'lights on' sounds when the door is opened but the key is still in the ignition switch, remove the key and turn off the lights and it's silent, switch off the lights but leave the key in and open the door u will get a 'key in' warning sound, the ignition switch has a micro switch.

If the switch lights up the fuse is ok, have u checked for leaks in the vacuum hose.

No they didn't. Just pick up a supply from your side light supply to the beeper, then to ground the beeper via a door pin switch or using the existing switch with a blocking diode. Simples

Bulb wise this also applies to the 300 series http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=85054

Shame u don't say what engine u have. but for me the only mod I wish I could have is to remove my engines rev limiter