teabag

MWC5144....... and the long link rod is MWC5150

Oh Dear. First of all the header tank should be 1/2 full or 1/2 empty if you like, the cold coolent level is around the halfway seam of the tank. Again you have a closed circuit cooling system, there's no overflow as such, any excess of coolent in the header tank will be released via the valve in the header tanks cap. Sort out the leak you have and see what happens, we assume yo have the standard header tank fitted and remember it's only a reservoir and the coolent will adjust to the correct level if overfilled.

It's both, 'click the 'More Reply Options next to the POST box.

Well done. Now post up the info on the alarm ecu of what u have done and how, it would help any one else that's thinking about doing the same.

http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=81113&hl=%2Breverse+%2Blight+%2Bswitch#entry695783 is this any help? There's a few others threads in the Forum.

Only if it has a manual gearbox.

Because Land Rover forgot to revise and up date their manuals when the R380 was introduced. However, LR main dealers service departments used MTF 94 oil manufactured by Texaco for Rover/ Land Rover, although now I know a LR service dept that only uses Castrol oils. There's nothing to stop you using other brands, the all do an MTF now.

The green box is the alarm/central locking ecu. The immobiliser, so called "spider" is deep within the dash, so remobilise your engine it just requires the fob to be close to the ignition switch. You may have a problem with the spider, it's not unknown for them to go faulty... There is a thread in the forum on how to bypass the spider.

According to the PDF MAINTENANCE CHECK SHEET i have, it's change all fluids, all filters and plugs plus aux/serp belt. Plus the usual checks, grease and adjust as required that LR would do on a B service.

Just click "more reply options", browse for the file and click "attach this file" always works for me ..

I had 205 for the 10 years i had my RRC with out any probs, although IIRC they were 16inch 70s but it was a long time ago.

Well done and nice to know the end result is sucess Tyres are 235.70 x 16 for the 300 series disco.

Your not wrong M8 That will be a genuine part price i would think

Most LR parts shops have or will get one for u. I just searched Rimmers..simple http://www.rimmerbros.co.uk/Item--i-FTC1609

I run a hobby car with a tuned 2L Pinto engine fitted with a Kenlow, removing the fixed bladed fan increased my engines BHP by 1, so for power increase forget it. If your standard engine with it's viscous fan hasn't warmed up a mile down the road you have something wrong. Hassle what hassle

My mates sunroof were leaking also the rear one wouldn't close dod tight on the seal, we found that a plastic bush that slides along the operating arm was missing and a few of the nylon track sliders has broken. So we decided to replace the sunroof with a £30 inc p&p one from ebay, when that arrived it still has it's motor but we saw that the locking mech had been butchered with a saw and and both tracks were full of grease. So we decided to dismantel both sun roofs down to their componant parts, that was an interesting little job, we keeped the ebay operating gear and the single bush for the operating arm and rebuilt the existing sunroof and refitted it to the vehicle using sealant for the body to frame seal. We still have the plastic/nylon sliders, screws and a glass seal just in case, the ebay motor went back on ebay and sold for £30, with blinds £15, two glass screws/nuts for £4.50 the glass and frame went to the tip.. we had a proffit of £19.50 and now a good understanding how a sunroof works. The bush that was missing...

Looks like the ebay seller dosen't know his actuators going by the discription. The master in the drivers door is 4 or 5 wire the others are 2 wire slaves. Acuators can be repaired but u have to split the case along the seam with a thin blade. Inside you will find a small brushless electric motor and a drive cog that pushes and pulls in rack & pinion style the flat operating rod, that's the rod you hook the lock operating rod to. The motors can seize due to the hardening of the grease, so free-up the motor and get it spinging again and re assemble you will have to stick the case back or tape together and fit back into the vehicle for the next 20+ years.

I suspected it was a lapse thing boaterboy, but u never know after what u read in the forums. Yes there is a flaw with the plastic 'drain sump'... how it's fixed and the route of the tubing. I haven't had the pleasure yet of leaking sunroofs i opened them once and saw how the glass was bouncing about and the roof flexing when driving over bumps in the road, so they were shut never to be opened other than to see it they still workonce a year which they do.

First of all, the two drains are at the front corners of each roof, they are there to remove any water that runs off the glass and into the side channels should the sunroof be opened when its wet, that's why the drains are at the front only and the glass also has a plastic moulding on top to divert water to the sides. Thats the design theory. If you have faulty glass seal and the drains are collecting and removing the water ok but they won't if your facing up a slope, If the frame seal is faulty water will flow into the lower frame and seep out where ever it can, either via the fixing screws or winding mech or over the top direct on to the headlining.

I'd go for the Efi temp sensor first, could be faulty or even a simple iffy plug connection. And Welcome to the Forum

I understand from the forums that this stuff is just the job and it works, with the leaking gutters http://www.captaintolley.com/

Damage to gutters by fitting a roof rack can break the sealent that you can see around and on top of the gutters, u only need one or two drips of water a minute overnight and that's a lot of water in the car in the morning. The known problem areas are anywhere there's a rubber seal.

There are two seals for a sunroof ( glass and frame to roof) and either or both can be faulty, so fix them and now more leaks.. Fixing the broken drains does not stop water coming past the seals.

Find some one else to look at your disco, sounds the don't know' don't care and don't wont the job. If they have such a simple system how is it they can diagnose down to componant level on a circuit board, as any resistors would be in the SRS ECU. I take it it the 1995 Td,i the rotary coupling below is known to give problems and bring up the SRS lamp in the dash and as for the loom why not ask Adventure 4x4 "How much is a loom and how easy is it to replace?"..

The Owners Handbook won't tell you as u have discovered, but the In-Car Entertainment (ICE) Handbook will, and then depending on the headunit you have will determien how u go about entering it.