teabag

First the fuel gauge will register what ever is in the tank with or without the ignition being on. It appears that the sender in the tank is working although that maybe partial if the low fuel lamp illuminates but the gauge pointer fails to move as the fuel decreases, or increases. It has been known for the sender or it's electrical connections to go faulty.

Your original thread is still there coachman. There's no specific web site but with Google you can easly find something on 'difflock' that's meaningful. I suspect the extra weight of a disco over a Freelander didn't help on the boggy ground which you were traversing.

As above, also I would have thought you would have been in difflock when you entered the field, and if a wheel is spinning on both axels then you going nowhere difflock or not. So get yourself more informed on the use of diff-lock before the a need to use it. You will find more ifo on it's use in your owners handbook and of course the www.

The breather pipe or the radiator or the expanion tank are not shown in the pics.

The Y pipe to manifold gasket blow a couple of years ago and that did make a racket like a machine gun when under load, so that another place to look, mine was blowing at the back to I couldn't see anything.. It stayed like that for a few months untill the disco went in for a service and the aultobox fluid and filter changed which requires the Y pipe to be moved so when it was refitted two new gaskets were fitted. Job done. It looks fiddly but only three nuts to release on each side.

Maybe a fuseable link has failed, not unknown untill they were put in a box on the later D1s. So depending on model year U will find them buried in the fabric of the wiring loom near the battery or in the underbonnet fusebox.. http://www.jpurnell.com/RR/repairs/fusible%20link%20repair.htm

That's the ones although I use Champion, you my wish to try a grade cooler and see if that helps. I'll let you do the searching on plug specs but here's the link http://www.sparkplugs.co.uk/

The 1996MY was introduced into the showrooms in June 1995 with a few changes ie. like the security system, EDC, a radio/cassett and 8 way powered seats to the ES.

Just in case you didn't know, but i'm sure u do... the access code is required only on the passive immobilising two button fob system introduced on the 1996MY disco. Before that the single system is set either via the fob or a key in the drivers door lock.

Yes a Main LR dealer service dept should be able to help assuming you disco is UK spec. VIN and perhaps your I'D & Reg. I know from the forums some don't even ask for that smileys are back

Well it would crumple just like any alloy panel.

http://www.servicingstop.co.uk/land_rover_service.html?gclid=CJj1r9TD-bQCFePHtAodlEIAgg&se=Google+Adwords&keywordid=1830934847&kwd=land%20rover%20servicing

There's micro switch on the back of the drivers lock barrel operated by a plastic cam, this or the switch have been known to break so you need to have the door card of for a look-see if yours is ok or not..

Try pressing down on the bonnet above the catch while another person pulls the lever, if it works, lubricate the lock and the pin and make sure the cable is fixed securely and not frayed. Yes the is away of accessing the lock to unlock with a long screwdriver, it will mean cutting a hole in the grill but then they are cheep to replace.

If you read in your owner's handbook this is the procedure after replacing the fob or vehicles battey. But as always there is aways one, and your it, don't worry I'm sure your not alone.

SO! on D1s you do.

A fob problem maybe if u can lock ok with the key, u may alread know but after replacing the fob battery it requires the lock button pressing 4 times. If it's the fob it has been known for the battery contacts to come loose from the fobs pcb so a little soldering job otherwise a replacement from Remote key.

no probs, is the fob locking and unlocking ok

As u haven't mentioned the model of disco i will take it as a 300 series disco. So.. a Multi Function Unit (MFU) looks after the items u discribe u may also have the rear fogs not working and no delay with the interior lights either. Check it's supply fuse, if ok then you may have a problem with the MFU which is not unknown..

Depends on what disco u have, a 200 series or early 300 series with active single button immobilising system or the later 300 series with passive immobilising which can be remobilised by just pressing the unlock button (when inside) on the twin button fob.

The pipes should be as near hot as the top hose. The heater temp is not reliant on the thermostat being open or closed but only on the engine/coolent temp you should have some warmth even before the thermostate has even opened. Have you removed the fan or blanked off the lower half of the rad.

Why? there's nothing wrong with the bulbs, just that they are not manufactured for negative earth vehicles, either unsolder and modify (reverse) them your self, simple to do, or get ones with the correct polaraty. Remember if they are white LEDs they won't be as bright, as you will be placing a red or amber filter over the front of them.

Can you start a manual with the key when it's in gear , I've never been able to. My companies Honda Accord has to be in park before I can remove the ignition key.

Only two thing to go wrong with a heater matrix, it is leaking or the water flow is blocked, so are the flow and return hoses hot indicating there is a flow through the matrix, if so then is must be the airflow/blending controls or dampers not working which has been known according to the forums.. As diesel run cool is the engine reaching it proper running tempreture.

Some wires are for reversing light switch, the black/yellow from the starter relay is earthed via the alarm ecu on the black/green according to the diagram in the Haynes manual, see what happens when they are connected together.