teabag

Your are a "spoil sport" Count...LoL

Whats a dual function display miles/kilometer odometer got to do with MOT testing?, u no doubt have the display set to kilometers, all the info on is in your owners handbook.

Front L black+ black/white- Front R black+ black/white- Rear L black/yellow+ black/orange- Rear R black/green+ black/blue- The above is taken from the Haynes manual for the disco, with the supply it's usually red and ground is black but you will have to check this with your multimeter, as UK spec disco 1s don't have an amplifer for these loudspeakers.

No, do you have 12v on the purple/brown when the other interior lamps if so that indicates that the supply circuit is ok. The purple/blue goes to the MFU. As I have stated the door pin switch has common wiring if there is a break in that the MFU doesnt get it's signal so nothing happens, all logical stuff.

Your are on the wrong page, keep up, the OP has a 300 series disco. Therefore no B1 fuse also the MFU (as I have already mentioned in post 8) switches on the interior lights on when it receives a signal via the door pin switch or the security ecu when unlocking.

As the wiring is common to all switches it could be the wire has come uncliped from one of the other door switches other than that there's a break in the wire. The wiring diagram shows wiring from switch to switch ithout any joints inbetween. Bottom line is you may have to replace the feed to the rear door switch.

As you say the switch is very basic so a clean up and making sure the spring is doing it job , a dab of Vaseline and that's it.... rarely is the switch terminal and has to be replaced, but no doubt it has been known.

Not a common problem from a gearbox but then if your gearbox has be taken apart it could be from the sump gasket or drain plug (you mention it's an auto on other forums I believe) or as simple as a nipping up of the the fill plug. When you have identfied the location of the fluid leak then let the Forum know and we will go from there.

That's normal because you are running an earth connection to a earth potential for another switch, the switches are grounded/earth via the screw to the body only, the illumination is controled by your MFU. The wiring is common to the three doors. Just touch the spade connector to the body if the lamp light then you have a faulty switch. There are NO fuses.

U don't understand how a closed circuit cooling system works do you.

"Roll the wheels"? But how far? you need do a few miles to replace the current drained on starting, so one day even what was a fully charged battery won't be able to turn the engine over. If your engine was immobilised you wouldn't be able to crank the engine also your D2 security system goes to sleep after a couple of days that's why the fob didn't work, unlocking and relocking with the key wakes the system up. All this as it's in the owner’s handbook which is on the www if you don't have one.

Other than a replacement glass there is no other parts mirror listed.

The windows will aways be quicker to rise & fall when the engine is running. We assume that you put a dab of grease on the regulator sliders and the motor drive cog, as stated silicone spray is the stuff for the vertical runners

Fusible links are in the engine bay fuse box, a relay is attached to the bracket on diesels, on the lower level I believe as I've never had to go there

The D1 XS had the lower body graphics.. so did LR carried that over on the D2?

Do u mean trying to lock although the door is already locked. The acuator is out of sync, disconnect the steel linking rod from the actuator and press unlock on the fob once the actuator will now be in an unlock position and reconnect the rod, press the lock if the door is locked and all should be well. Or or you could leave connected and pull the actuating rod by hand therefore manually unlocking the door, but that's a bit brutal.

Excellent just as it should be just short of 1Nm at 40 if it's 2% .. a bit like my Fluke multi meterwhich is certified every year at 2% + or -.... it's a shame my two torque wrenches 1/2 and a 3/8 can't be checked but then I've never had a problem after using them. It appears the Haynes book has 6 stages and the LR workshop manual has 5, missing the bit about installing the bolts

Your master actuator within the drivers door controls the slave actuators via the built in micro switch and may require a slight adjustment, so slacken the four mounting plate screws and move a few mil one way or the other while lock/ unlocking with the fob.

Do you know how accurate is your wrench is, is one on the newish digital types that are certifide and calibrated a requirement in most industries nowdays or is it something made in China. If not, how to you know the torque setting is what it said it is on your wrench it may be a percent or two + or - so based on that go for it. 20Nm is not that tight ,anyway my Haynes book for the 300Tdi states the 1st stage is tighten untill bolt heads just contact the head it's the 2nd stage thats 40Nm.

I agree, the fitting is very cheap and the connection could become iffy if it's been interfered with a few times. There's no part number as it's not a replacable part it's part of the wiring loom.

I may get some then as i have afew fine cracks in the gutter mastic, I have no leaks yet but no harm in preventive measures. Does the stuff have a short life once opened, it would be handy to have on the sheld for any other little jobs

Maybe the horn push button is stuck, I'd remove the horn fuse B5 as a temp measure, it's a simple circuit to trace, a 12v supply to the horn push then to the horns which are then earthed.. Your D1 efi ecu doesn't have volatile memory so there's no need to maintain a 12v supply with your CTec.

I have a set of genuine parts Teflon balls fitted, they have been there for 15 years so what's the problem.

It's it rain water or coolent with the smell of antifreeze?