teabag

It now appears that the part number for ‘ belt-engine timing’ is ETC8550 for the 200 series, not ERR1092 above which is for the 300 series, confirmed by looking in my genuine disco1 parts catalogue and also the link posted by sierrafery Its the first time I’ve found errors in the on-line lrcat.com catalogue, also the code name for engines produced 1989-1994 was Jay

A screen shot from one of the links above

From P into R or N into D my engine RPM drops by at least 80 revs, there is a slight increases when AC is on, all controlled by the EFI ECU and idle control valve as you know. So with AC on and in drive my engine idles around 675 give or take and when for example stationary at traffic lights. Buts its not very i look a the rev counter. So from the RPM numbers you posted thats just 20 revs lower at idle than my engine in the selector P or N

A breathing issue maybe? Checking the crankcase breather and hose are clear, remove the ‘flame trap’ from the rocker cover and soak it for 1/2 hour in petrol, or overnight, or replace it. Also is the air filter clean.

The RPM at idle will be higher without any load, move out park or neutral and the revs will drop, and a bit more with electrical stuff and A/C added to the mix. My 3.9 auto sits at around 730rpm at idle in neutral and anything between 650 and 675 when loaded, but all vary slightly sometimes not that I notice, I don’t look a the rev counter often. LRs workshop manual adds + or - 28rpm to their stated idle speeds, also all loads off in neutral 665 to 735 rpm. Base idle 525+-25rpm.

When we moved on from burglar alarms with a bell we used this type of sounder, as a money making upgraded.😀 Still available on eBay.

Hi, as you haven’t replied to the above suggestions can we assume that the issue with your vehicle has now been resolved ?

Yes you can using a standard 12v alarm horn sounder (ebay for less than £10) : There are four wires to the existing sounder unfortunately they are all black so with you multimeter u need to identify the permanent horn supply F1 thats used and the negative return thats control by the security ecu in an alarm condition - not the BBUS battery charging supply F5 which will redundant In the electrical copy of Rave for the D1 you will see (copy below) of the wiring for the existing BBUS sounder or with a stand-alone sounder via a relay depending on the loading of the sounder u choose. All very straight forward

I expect you have now seen my PM that has the details of the modification required to install a 12v alarm sounder/horn to replace the factory fit battery backed up sounder.

Try readjustment of the actuator, slacken the 4 actuator plate screws slightly and move it left and right a couple of mm at a time, trying the lock unlock with the fob, there’s a sweet spot when the actuator will do what it’s supposed to do... unlock/ lock the tighten the 4 screws.

Ok the clips aren’t that uncommon, in my involvement in the rash with such things, unfortunately gone are the days when you could walk into a parts department with one and ask for a few. The top clip is what was known a an E clip the lower just a sprung retaining clip, I suppose there’s a specific name in the trade for it. So good luck in your search, I would also ask around at the small independent parts suppliers to the diy/motor trade

So u can crank the engine but it doesn’t fire.. correct? You need to ensure that u have 12v at the EDC ECU as that also carries out the immobiliser function controlled via the security ECU. Does the fob extinguish the red led in the dash, when u unlock the vehicle or move the fob near to the ignition switch? The 300Tdi auto doesn’t have a spider, as you already have found out. If you need a wiring diagram there’s a simple to follow one in the Haynes manual. RemoteKey can supply u with a new and fully functioning fob to match your system.

Definitely drain and refill with ATF, ATF is a lubricant as well as hydraulic, brake fluid is just hydraulic.

Ok that interesting, in that case ‘brass shim washers’ might be available in the size u require, and being brass, if the size isn’t available then it’s not much trouble to alter another washer for a perfect fit. Out of interest pls let the Forum know how u get on 😊

Washers and the circlips for the wiper linkage aren’t shown as a replacement part in the D1 genuine parts catalogue, hence no part numbers but there’s plenty of retailers on eBay that sell washers and clips.

Circuits that are switch controlled are dead so no need to test them, but an iffy alternator with a faulty diode/ regulator will drain a battery overnight, diodes can be tested but the time it takes it’s just as easy fit a new pack.

The disco has the later RR (classic) door furniture of their doors locks, locking, handles and concealed hinges, so find a D1 and have a look. unless u would like me to post a photo of the D1 hinges. My RR had exposed hinges on both the front doors.

As the P38 has the same kit as my Disco1 u could try this test after locating ECU and unplugging the connector. The test is simple and I’d start with the vacuum pump test first, the bellows will collapse right back into it’s housing if the vacuum is good through out the hose system any right to the end of the hose which the brake pedal vac dump valve, and of course the clutch pedal valve if u have a manual gearbox. The speed sensor test may be useful, but I believe the voltage is pulsed, it’s something I didn’t bother to do based that my vehicles speed sensor was okay because the EFI system and speedo reading didn’t have any issues. All the previous tests had a positive result so I replaced the ECU and so returned back to a functioning Cruise Control.

It can be found in the engine bay relay/fuse box which is I believed behind the battery. also there’s a lot of info on a P38 diesel failure to start, here’s a link to just one of the threads available https://www.brit-car.co.uk/product.php/92971/5497/heater_plug_relay_bmw_diesel_p38_range_rover https://rimmerbros.com/Item--i-STC3364

A bit late but as no one else could be bothered. Have you checked the vacuum pipe, is the pipe work and pedal dump valve/valves 100 percent from the vacuum pump to the valve/ valves via the actuator ?

Road springs for the D1 are obsolete. New genuine springs weren’t exactly soft, there’s a spring manufacturer call British Springs who produce springs to the exact vehicle manufacturers specification like Land Rover which is handy.

It must have been the April copy of LRO. 😋

Just move you working fob over the ignition switch and it will go way, but will return if you delay starting the engine. As mentioned unlocking will remobilise the engine, but delay starting and that symbol will appear. All the info is in the owners handbook.

PCR6895 then. https://www.ebay.co.uk/p/Range-Rover-Classic-Ice-Detection-Washer-Jet-Thermostat-Prc6895/20008650586

Air Con... BTR9733 solar sensor