teabag

Although I havent this problem, I can see what u mean for such a major componant it's very flimsy not even a rubber shroud over the plug. All I can suggest is have a look in a Maplin shop or RS or Farnell componants on line..Have you try'd a repair with this 'apoxi putty' thats on the market, u know the one that has two parts which u cut and mix together, U can then form form a new shell around the existing cracked one. Just a thought. Regards

The speakers still have paper diaphagms in a ES and although they sound very good, its not untill u fit 'decent' loudspeakers that u notice the difference. I replaced my front and rear speakers with Pioneer TS-G1 1049 (still retaining the existing covers) and put a boxed 10 inch sub in the boot, picking up the signal and the 12v switching power for the 100watt amp (located under the front passanger seat) from the backdoor sub. A two way switch is used so I can switch the 12v back to the door amp when the 'sub in the box' is removed ti give space in the boot when needed. 12v is the green wire at the backdoor amp and the signal wires are the black and white also at the amp. Cables from the door amp followed the existing wiring through the door edge tube then under the boot mat to the amp underneath the seat and the power cable for the amp is from the battery via a existing hole in the bulkhead then under the dash and under the passengers carpet to the amp. The existing head unit is adjusted with the treble /base control so that the speakers handle the high and mid range and the 'sub in a box' set at 100db handles the lower mid range and the base signals. Sorted.. For loudspeakers etc http://www.caraudiocentre.co.uk/

Its a direct swap 300 series lights to the early Td5 lights. The LRO mag did a bit a year or so a go. So easy the the owner had is young son do the job, the result was a better light output. The 'facelift' Td5 HID lamps requires a cutting job

I had a water leak on the passenger side and after removing the plastic kick panel found that it was coming from the area where the steel bracket that suports the dash is bolted through to the inner wing. A finger tip dab of roofing sealent stopped the leak. Silicone didn't stick U will need a bright touch to see any thing amongest the wires etc under the dash. Regards

If u have difficult starting and when u get the engine started there's a lot of black smoke from the exhaust then suspect the ECU is failing, the engine will also to stall sometimes as well when hot, a bit inconvenient with an auto. The ECU was the problem on my RR I also changed the coolent temp sensor as I thought that was faulty, it wasn't.

Have a look at the December issue of Land Rover Enthusiast in it they show how to fit extended roof rails on a D2 it will give u an idear of whats involved in fitting rails to a D1. regards

I can't find the fuse in my books either, have u check the two electrical plugs that are under the bonnet under the windscreen?