wayneg

And there was me getting all smug after doing a forum search for "workshop Manuals" and finding none. I obviously need to look harder around the site.

Doing a search for some info I hit upon this website http://www.landrover.ee/est/varia/downloads/cars.htm I could not see anyone else has posted about this site so I hope it will be very useful to all. These are genuine Landrover workshop manual converted to PDF.....Enjoy If this is a new find maybe it should be pinned to the top of the page. What do you all think?

Getting the key cut is no problem and I suggest "urgent". The fob is the issue and I am in the same boat as you. I purchased one of the universal learnng remotes from ebay which supposedly adjusts its frequency to the original. All the right light sequences flash on the new fob but no joy. I have tried to get the car to go into the "learning Mode" with the ign on /of door opening sequence but nothing is happening to start the learning process. does anyone know if two fobs with different frequencies can be assigned to one control unit. I find it hard to believe it is so difficult to get a reasonably priced replacement /spare fob. There is a firm who will supply a fob if you send them the control module if you dont mind spending £££

Redex.

Which is + and which is - ?

I would suggest the 1st thing you do is check all the vacuum lines for perishing at the ends, there should be enough slack to trim off the perished part to good rubber, normally the 1st 1/2 inch. Also check the bellows are holding the vacuum by compressing manually and blocking the vacuum pipe, the bellows should hold closed and not spring back.

Geoff, thanks for that.

The link to ABS diagnostics in the Tech achieve is unfortunately dead. I do have info from another source which I used to get the error code as described before 2.3. I do not know how to clear the codes though so if anyone could advise that would help. This code 2.3 will keep on repeating as long as i leave the test mode on making me think this is the only code stored. I also am still not able to identify the tune resister under the drivers seat, anyone got a photo so I can see what I am looking for?

OK, I know its embarrassing but the sensors were there all along, having read the reply referring to swivel sensor ring ring I realised I was looking on the axle body ( due to a diagram I had seen on another forum) when I should have been looking at the hub top, Anyway after this eureka moment I have followed all the cables to make sure everything was OK and the sensors were seated correctly. Coming to the main Valve block I then found the main electrical connector was unplugged and had been all along. After a 20min struggle and removing the ABS pump to get access the plug was back on. A quick test drive and still the warning lights are on although now in a more orderly fashion. Ign on , both ABS and Traction control light come on 5 seconds and both go off then ABS comes back on. Drive vehicle over 5mph and ABS light does not go out plus Traction Control light comes back on. I have run the diagnostic sequence and still get the same code as before of 2.3 , this I have been told is not a valid code. I checked several times and cannot get anything different, always 2.3 I have tested the brakes very aggressively and they are working fine, I cannot get the car to skid so believe the abs is working. The 1st time after reconnecting the valve block plug when moving off there was a judder as though the ABS or traction control is suddenly working on its own, I felt it to be coming from the valve block, after this quick burst of activity all went to normal but with the warning lights still on. Anyone got any ideas how i can progress to diagnose the problem? I would like to confirm the valve block is ok, is there a test procedure.

Does anyone know if I purchase a second hand remote (as a spare) for my 93 RRC can this be programmed to the car along with the original, presumably unless I was unbelievably lucky they would be working on different frequencies. How do I find the correct frequency? Below are the programming instructions I have found, hope they are correct. (It may take several attempts and the timing must be correct for it to work) 1)Starting conditions: ignition off, doors unlocked, bonnet switch depressed. 2)Steps 3 to 9 MUST be carried out within 8 seconds. 3)Switch ignition ON. 4)Switch ignition OFF. 5)Lock doors. 6)Unlock doors. 7)Release bonnet switch. 8)Switch ignition ON. 9)Switch ignition OFF. If alarm is correctly accessed, the horn will sound and LED will light. It is now possible to programme two handsets of correct frequency to vehicle alarm ECU. This must be carried out within two minutes. 10)Press and hold down button on first handset until dash LED flashes. 11)Repeat instruction for second handset. 12)The LED will extinguish if both handsets have been initialised correctly

Thanks for the info, will keep me busy at the weekend doing more investigating. Am i right in my understanding of your answer to my abs/ traction question that it will still work on the rear? I have now taken the warning bulbs out of the dash and am thinking I will leave well alone. I must admit I was not to alarmed by the fuel consumption but thought the running / tickover was a bit lumpy. I Have just got the car back having had a LPG conversion and its running a lot smoother on gas. It will make you all sick to hear it cost me A$350, about £140 due to a government grant of A$3000. Only setback is the tanks are not allowed along the sides so had to get a flat tank in the rear loadspace. LPG is about 25p a litre!

Before I rant on please let me introduce myself to the forum. I am a long standing owner of Land / Range rovers in the UK and am now living in Western Australia. Having sold my beloved "mint" 93 Vouge SE before emigrating I have recently purchased an Identical late `93 over here to get out and about to the nicer spots. My latest charge has had a hard life and appears to have had loads of work done which I am trying to get to grips with, this is where I need help. Like most I am working to a tight budget and have more time than money to fix things. The major things I am trying to get to grips with are the ABS and fuel/ ECU issues. The air suspension has been removed and the car now sits very nicely on springs and shocks, nice heavy duty units. Problem is the front axle appears to be from an earlier car and does not have the ABS sensors, the rear axle does. This is obviously causing the ABS warning light in the dash to go potty. I have checked all braking systems are ok and to all effect the car stops perfectly. Does anyone know of a way to get the ABS/ Traction control working on the back if the front sensors are not there? The exhaust has also been changed, I have a twin down pipe from either side ( looks like an early system) which goes into a single pipe to the back with only the original back box, the cats and silencer are gone. The sound is awesome for 5 minutes then it becomes boring. I have been advised the car is running very rich and put this down to no Cats and Lamda sensors. I have done a bit of searching and found a tune resistor can be changed to an earlier non cat green one. Where can I find this on my car? Finally I have only one remote and want to get a spare. I purchased a "learning" remote from e-bay but cannot get it to learn. What are my options here? I am sure I can get one from the Stealership but am looking for a cheap option Over here there is no yearly MOT and believe it or not this car has in the past 3 weeks had Two government inspection ( like a watered down MOT ) as it was not registered and passed both times. They did however pick up on a sluggish rear elec window.