upnover4x4

I'm in the process of deciding what snorkel to fit when, or be most suitable for when I transplant my TGV engine from my disco to my defender. With the engine being fitted in the disco at present, i have observed that the inlet pipes between the turbo & air filter housing starts to collapse when the engine is revved. The filter is brand new, & a vortex type mushroom head southdown snorkel is fitted. Once the mushroom head is removed the restriction is removed. Problem solved...... My issue is this, I like the appearance of the Mantec "plastic jobby" over the other convoluted type they do & also a Genuine Safari snorkel, but do feel from what ive seen of the intake apertures, that airflow would be restricted!? Notably, Safari are the only company that mention the airflow issues that can be experienced with the 300tdi engine. Not interested in a southdown , as dont want to cut into wing. I'd be interested if anyone has fitted any particular snorkel to a defender fitted with a TGV & have experience problems with airflow with certain type snorkels. Thanks Ade

its local to me Ralph if you want some clearer pics taken.

DVLA is generally the cheapest I found, I purchased mine from an independant & got charged for new reg plates & some other admin charge. A 500quid plate turned into 850 in the end. Only buy if you intend to keep the plate on the vehicle for more than a year or 2 as transferring plate can become expensive to mere mortals. Removal of plates can be complicated if tax has lapsed or no mot for some time. Check the DVLA website for a comprehensive insight. Honestly wish I never had mine bought for me(fathers day pressie) its can be more trouble than its worth & consume money & time, if your not a 1 vehicle kind of person.

Hi Buddy, nice to see your going with this idea With regards the emergency stop issue agree with previous comment about have a deadmans emergency stop button which disables all remote options & give immediate in car control only.

IIRC, mudstuff used to sell windows for the sides, Im pretty sure they were jcb items?

Give brookwells a ring, I got a rear bulkhead from them at a jumble for 20quid. makes life easier when trying to fill in the new void below the rear window. Have a look on ebay for a old series catflap door. I cut my old full door down which is a bit more hassle. If your carefull its possible to take a full door apart & just use the top half. The skin was in to parts on mine then I just folded the lower edge of the skin over the new lower frame. I did take pics. ill try &find them & post them up. Treebloke did the conversion on his, if you do a search should turn up some results

Theres a punch hunt on at pillaton this coming weekend being held by Gnarly laners.(same site that was used for the de-cider). Its an inter club event between them & plymouth off road club.Sure youll be welcome.

invest your money wisely, I went for a telwin 45hf which cost me £800 4 yrs ago. Was really expensive on consumables until i found cheaper supplier. Cornishweldingsupplies do some good deals on plasma & bits, & he doesnt mind posting.Ask for Darren hell sort out a good deal for you. I went for the telwin 45 cause they qouted a severance cut of 12mm which it does without any problems. It also runs off a 240v 16 amp supply. External air supply with reg & moisture trap.

Right, ive got a couple of part numbers but not sure which number relates to which part. c1521 c1304 I think both numbers are for short shroud& electrode. If you give the guy i metioned above a ring he keeps all the bits on the shelf & he is really reasonable. dont go to BOC for spares they just bend you over the barrel on prices Paid the same for 1 item form boc as he supplied me for20 of the same. www.cornishweldingsupplies.co.uk

nige,I have the same torch,I get all my bits from cornishweldingsupplies. Speak to Darren, hes most helpful. Whats wrong with it?

Hi all, just got off the phone with a very heplful tube bender supplier.Importers of pro-tools benders, dies sets & tube notchers etc.Keen prices & has shipments from the states every 6wks, but do keep a large range in stock. Website has usefull links to a couple of tube suppliers also. When ordering mention LR4x4 as possibility of discounts. http://www.stakesys.co.uk/ Speak to Matt whos a wealth of knowledge & very helpfull.

I have one of these props, & as far as I cant tell they are just std type ujs. As ralph said tho best to verify with Dave. Be careful tho he will probably tell you its made from some exotic material & charge overthe odds for it.

Just bought a YK10B bench mounted press by sealey. Purchased from Express tools, £190 inc vat + delivery & 650w angle grinder thrown in free. Direct from sealey in 2 days. Really pleased with it. In agreement that the ideal tool would be the 20ton version but at twice the price.

Eriks part# for this item is "LDK POS 20"

Got my rose joints from Erics, cost about a tenner. The same as my old scorpion item except no grease nipple. Erics

Gwyn lewis or Llama4x4

If its the same config as defenders, I dont think they are compatable. IIRC there are different spline counts from each other.

And liberal amounts of penetrating oil. be cautious spraying on hot exhuast tho.Re-assemble using copaslip or the like on all threads.

Devon4x4 also sell the cardos & gigglepin has another variation.

Dont know if this links maybe of help.Link 1 Link 2

Does this dash do away with what LR install as a dash, ie heater control,heater vents etc. Ive got a bare bulkhead & was contemplating whether to build an ally dash but for 140 notes from tomcat hardly seems worth it!

Therea approx 2" of free space between where the rad would be mounted as std & the steering box that you could possibly move the rad housing back to gain a bit of extra room. I moved my rad back closer to the steering box to gain that little extra. I ended up remaking a d44 bumper to allow the winch to sit back further but was a bit of a headache. Theres very little space left between the rad & winch(8274) now and could probably do with a drum protector. The front of the bumper now sit approx 3" in front of the chassis rail.DOnt know how that compares with others but has made for a good approach angle.

for the time it takes, swap the known good lamp unit to the opposing side & see if it works. Easiest way if you have a voltmeter is the check the feed to the offending side as mentioned above.

silly question I know but is the lamp ok?

probably the easiset way to get the measurements is to buy a set of one off the guys who has spent the time researching , designing & making the product. Im sure you wont feel ripped of as they are really good value & doesnt warrant getting your head spinning with designs for the price. Failing that work it out thru a trial & error basis as others here have done.