Labradors

rtbarton, They may be better done now but when I restored my Series 3 in the late 1990`s I definately agree with you. I borrowed an endoscope (video camera + light on a long flexible tube)from a friend in a motorsport competition workshop and viewed galvanised chassis at two suppliers, the inside galvanising was at best spasmodic. In view of this evidence gathering I restored my old chassis and gave it 3 coats of Waxoyl on the inside,boiled linseed oil & red oxide primed on the outside finnishing off with 2 coats of smooth black hammerite. Now ten years later the chassis shows not a hint of rust inside or out even around the outer rear cross member ! Having said the above I wish I had done a better job on the bulkhead as I have since had to repair both sides just below the bottom door hinge. Bulkhead galvanising - a brilliant idea !

Obviously the first thing to check is the inner cable, if only a short length comes out then obviously its broken (you need a new inner at least - possibly a complete cable if there is a chance that the cause of the break be a kink/sharp bend or damage to, the outer cable), if the inner seems ok check for rounded off ends which should be square as previously mentioned. Personally the most recent speedo failure I had – a couple of years ago – was caused by a pinion drive gear failure. The worm gear on the output shaft of the gearbox was in prestine condition but the teeth on the pinnion gear were so worn it just failed to engage. Two screws hold the pinnion housing in place its easy to withdraw - just make sure the pinnion -with the sqaure section end where the inner cable goes-comes out with the housing, as if badly worn it has been known and is possible for it to drop into the main output housing, which of course makes an easy job into a much bigger one ! In my case a new pinion soon put things back to normal.......

Yep, I was wrong, definately a D25 - I had forgotten the 45 had no adjustment-must have been another senior moment !

Hi Mike, This distributor, to me, looks like a Lucas 45D4 Distributor. and in need of some TLC, I hope you intend to take the base plate out and see the state of the bob weights and springs which are located underneath it, these weights gives the engine automatic centrifugal advance of the ignition (alongside the vacuum advance supplied by the inlet manifold/carburetter). These bob weights and small springs are critical to the smooth running of the engine so would advise a quick shufty in there prior to renewing condenser and points etc. The Land Rover part numbers for the bob weight springs is:600476 (which will have been superceded by another number by now I am sure) I can only supply you with Unipart part numbers for other bits: Condenser GSC111, Points GCS101, Rotor Arm GRA101 but as suggested above the Mini Centre should be able to supply you with all this over the counter. Good luck and Happy Easter under the bonnet.

A big thank you to all concerned in the above thread - two (or many more) heads are better than one ! I have just finished sorting a friends Series 2A 2.25 petrol that was running like a pig and doing 10 MPG all down to warped mating surfaces on the Zenith and unblocking the "redundant" oriface that some bright spark had filled with RTV in the past. If it wasnt for the experiences quoted in this thread and the intelligent advice from members I would still be scratching the grey matter !

Further to the above problem. A cure has now been found which might be of use to other members. On advice given by a Series expert on another site. I lowered the float closure height by 2mm, on reassembly I had to readjust the slow running mixture and idle speed but it seems to have cured the over rich warm start up.

Hi All, I have had a Weber 34 ICH carburetter fitted to my 1971 2.25 petrol S3 for the past 6 years with minimal problems until a blocked idle jet last month, I took the carb off the manifold, stripped it and compressed air cleaned all orifices, galleries, jets, checked float height & needle valve condition. Renewed the in-line petrol filter. Since that strip down & reassembly all is well with the running and performance BUT with the engine warm if I park up and switch off for 30 mins on restarting the engine it runs way over rich with black smoke for a couple of seconds, then clears and runs normally. Its just as if the carb dribbles into the manifold from the float chamber when warm (this does not happen starting from cold) My very first thought was not carb connected but valve guide seal wear, so I fitted new ones but it made no difference and problem persists. I would welcome any ideas ?