NeilF
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Posts posted by NeilF
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I've cleared the 4114 code many times and it always comes back. It's always the only fault code. If I assume the crowd in Cork used the proper rebuild kit, the fault must be somewhere else, outside of the SVS, but where? What might I check next?
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20 minutes ago, discokev said:
I could be wrong but the fault is a connection inside the block, and new wiring bypasses it. Loads of information if you google three amigos. Kev.
Yes, thanks - I have the instructions for hardwiring the switches. Just that I believe the rebuild kit for the shuttle valve block comes with a new connector - so the cracking of a circuit board track on the connector shouldn't be an issue; it should be as new. Either the crowd that did the rebuild didn't or there is a fault somewhere else along the line?
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The thing is, I believe the rebuild kit for the shuttle valve also has a new connector, so I'm not sure how a direct wire job will change things. Given that the lights come on immediately after turning on the ignition, does this suggest a fault between the shuttle valve and the ECU? Where else might I have a dodgy connection?
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Last year, and being fed up with the three amigos, I passed on the instructions for direct wiring of the shuttle valve block to my garage man to do while he did his annual service. He was quite happy to do that but reported back that the three amigos indicated an actual fault and needs must the shuttle valve block be rebuilt. He took it out and sent it down to a crowd in Cork who rebuilt the unit. A week later and €700-odd Euro lighter, everything seems well - the rebuild kit comes with a new connector, apparently. However, shortly thereafter, the 3 amigos again made their appearance. However, the nature of their return was subtly different: before, the lights came on during driving at random intervals but were extinguished immediately after a restart. Now, the lights often come on when turning on the ignition, and often stay on after turning off and then on the ignition. They will still come on at other times too. Since it was less than a year since the work was done, I went back to my garage man who again took the unit out and sent it down to Cork for a rebuild at no cost to me. However, the 3 amigos are still alive and well.
I'm beginning to suspect an alternative reason for these 3 guys; has anyone any suggestions? I have my NCT (MOT) test on Saturday and I'd hate for these guys to crash the party.
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Sorry, away for the weekend, its a disco2 2002, TD5.
I haven't tried it with the lights on since........
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Last night, I turned the ignition off and the engine kept running, until I turned the headlights off??? It happened twice (I removed the key, the second time). The third time, I switched the lights off first, and then turned the key and the engine stopped normally. Is this odd behaviour?
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OK, I'll try that, though the problem is very intermittent - I hate intermittent problems!
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My Disco2's alarm seems to be having an identity crisis. Shortly after locking the car with the key fob, 3 or 4 mins, the alarm will suddenly go off without any intervention. It takes repeated presses of the key fob to turn it off. Thereafter, the dashboard LED lights with a continuous rapid flash until I turn on the ignition. My immediate thought was that the key fob battery was on its way out, so I replaced that, but to no avail. Any ideas?
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My usual garage gut is off on his hols so I took it to another place who said something about a 'cover plate' that usually cracked and they replace it as a matter of course, than he started talking about a new oil pump too.......
Any Idea what this cover plate is?
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Griff,
Thanks for that. I doubt I'll do that myself, can't be arsed these days and I don't have a 340lb torque wrench either. But I'll pass this on to my garage guy. Just wondering about the faff of holding the crank still while undoing the bolts - can you not leave it in gear?
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Did a 300 mike trip yesterday. This morning the oil light came on. Put a liter in and it went nowhere, the oil is horsing it out. Looks like the front crank seal. I’m guessing it’ll need the radiator pulled out to get at it? A lot of work for a 4.50 seal .....
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Got some on eBay, hope they fit. Thanks, guys
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Thanks! but I've put a gauge on and I think I need an 18/32 mm size - the nearest I can find is 18/40 - they all seem to be for track rod ends rather than the cover for an anti roll bar link - anyone know any different?
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My Disco2 failed it's NCT (MOT) test. One item was a split dust cover on the anti roll bar link. Can you get these separately or do you need to buy a new link? If so, what's the difference between the ordinary one (RBM100223) and a Delphi Link Assembly Front Antiroll Bar Discovery 2 (RBM100223 G)? How do I know which one I need?
Another Item of failure was a track rod end. Now, it failed on the same thing on the same side 2 years ago. My garage man swore there was nothing wrong with it but we replaced it anyway and it passed. I find it hard to believe a track rod end would wear in 2 years, so perhaps there is some play in the steering linkage but somewhere else? What else is there on one side only that could give rise to play when worn?
I also got a fail advisory on not having any rear seats. It's a 7 seater, but the rears were folded up..... :D
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Ok, thanks for confirming my thoughts. Too early to say yet but no fault lights have yet re-appeared.
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I've had a hate/hate relationship with my panel lights for several years: I suspected the Three Amigos after reading threads on here, though sometimes it was the downhill light, the TC light and the ABS light, though other times it was the handbrake light replaced the downhill light. In any case, turning off the ignition would clear the lights until the next time, with sometimes weeks between events.
Lately I've had the same problem but the lights didn't always clear on restart and then finally I got all 4 of the afore mentioned lights that did not clear at all.
I dug out my Hawkeye which revealed three ABS faults. Unfortunately, I didn't right them down, but they included something about an air gap and a broken sensor wire. I thought that if I cleared the faults with the Hawkeye, and if they were not spurious, they would come back. They have not done so and I was wondering if my supposition was incorrect and that I currently have physical faults that are now no longer registering.
Any guidance would be appreciated.
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Well, I've had the new air bags in a week and not a sign of a sag. They inflated as good as gold, too. Thanks to all the contributors and just to re-iterate what the more knowledgable on here have said: even when you're sure it's not the bags, it's probably the bags.....:)
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1 hour ago, honitonhobbit said:
simply mix up a strong solution of Fairy (or other proprietary brand) washing up liquid, in a small hand sprayer - like you mist your houseplants with. The get the system pumped up. Then work round the bags, air lines and sundry components with the soapy water spray , looking for bubbles
Well, I owe you an apology for not heeding your advice sooner.
I went back and sprayed with soapy water. Nothing. Then I jumped up and down on the back bumper and lo and behold! bubbles from one spring. So I'll buy a pair to replace both.
Still not sure why both sides go down though? -
20 minutes ago, Snagger said:
If it stays up for days but drops quickly in use, then I can't imagine it being the valve block. I can imagine perished air bags leaking as the flex while driving, but I think an electronic control issue commanding a lowering is more likely.
This was the way I was thinking, but I have no idea how to approach this side of things
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I was wondering whether I should just buy a new valve block and slot it in. I've been looking at some step by step guides re compressor rebuilds, and by the looks of it, I can remove the block and leave the rest in situ. I'll replace the filter while I'm at it?
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On 13/3/2017 at 0:20 PM, simonr said:
I would bet you have some dust under the valve seats. Nobody ever changes the filter on the compressor - after a while they degrade and dust / filter material get into the valve block.
It's easy to fix though just by disassembling the valve block and cleaning it with an air blower. I've bought a couple of apparently 'broken' valve blocks to find this was the only fault.
The filter is located behind the NS rear light and easy to change.
Si
The valve block is attached to the compressor under the passenger seat?
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I'm trying to get my head round the fact that it can stay up for days, and yet go down within minutes, even with the engine running. If I bounce on the back bumper (engine off), it goes down in seconds and if I park with one side on the kerb, it also goes down. Further, if I go over speed bumps, it will also go down between one speed bump and another (engine running). I've replaced leaky bags once already so I know what it looked like - this time it goes down too fast for a leak. What can I try?
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Addendum 2. Stayed up at normal hight for hours. Just drove over 6 or 7 speed bumps on our estate and by the last, the suspension was down to the bump stops ( the back crashed down at the last). Used the off road setting to get it back up.
So it's unlikely a leak or compressor fault, and unless both ride hight sensors went out at the same time, it seems more of a management issue. I'd rather not go to coils if it was easy to sort.
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As an addendum, I just got back from a short trip and it was down when I got out of the car
The three amigos - the saga continues
in Discovery Forum
Posted · Edited by NeilF
I'll see if I can identify the wires and put a meter on them
ps pin 9 (red) and 6 (black)? Can I measure the resistances by just unplugging the multi connector with everything in situ?