NeilF

When I bought my disco II, the factory-fitted unit had been replaced by a Tevion unit apparently bought from Aldi. It's not much use so I've just bought a much better unit from Lidl In my naivety, I thought I might just pull out the old one and connect up the two iso connectors to the new and I'd be laughing. My only concern was how to run the microphone wire from the rear to somewhere in front for the bluetooth. I just bought it this evening so I don't know what is behind the Tevion unit - probably some sort of rats nest. I've just read the above posts, and only made out 2 words out of 3.......I'm fairly handy, though I have no wiring diagram, and who knows what's been done behind the dash.... Any and all advice will be gratefully received. p.s. aren't all these things (connections) standard at this stage? Neil.

Thank you very much, My daughters boyfriend might get me the loan of the tool - I'll have a look at it! Actually, since he's a mechanic, I should ask him to do it.........he's still in training....maybe not

Was looking at the Ashcroft site, and in particular the D2 diff lock. They say to check the transfer case serial No. and if it's 41D or 42D, then I just need the linkage. Buying the additional parts (and more to the point getting them fitted) for the transfer box might be cost-prohibitive, given that my major need for 4X4 is boat towing and launching, and the main reason to re-instate the diff lock, would be to put things in proper order and reduce the 'dragging-a-bag-of-spanners-over-the-cattle-grid' ETC. So, where would I find the transfer case serial No.? from above or grovelling underneath? Hoe much to have it done and is there anywhere in Ireland that would do it?

I have a slightly different problem, the central locking works on all doors, but the lock button on a rear passenger door remains in the down position. It's no real hassle, but if it is an easy fix, I'd like to do it. I'm just reluctant to take off the door trim in case I make a mess of it and damage it.

Yes, I had the same problem - has it been removed from the server?

I don't want to hijack this thread, but yes, there is the whirring sound of the oil rotor, but also, rarely, an electrical pulsing sound which I haven't identified and no one here has guessed (yet). Is a centre diff lock conversion expensive or difficult (2002 post-facelift D2)? On another note, I understand that locking the front-back diff. does nothing for the differential slip on the same axle, and this is common for many 4X4's. And I understand the need for a differential on an axle for anything more than walking pace on mud or snow, when tyres can scrub a bit. But why not fit the axle with a limited slip diff? or am I missing something?

My cattle grid didn't seem muffled at all! As a follow-up to my first post, I still get that electrical pulsing noise after turning off the engine, on the odd occasion - still haven't located the source of the noise - by the time I get to the bonnet release it stops, though on one occasion it stopped when I centrally locked.

I thought that I might add that there is a European Standard for Biodiesel: EN 14214, even though there is (unlike much of the rest of Europe) no national UK or Ireland national standards. You can always ask your supplier if his biodiesel is up to EN 14214 spec, and if he doesn't know (or care) you can always do your own quick and dirty water mix test as described above. Another quick and dirty test you can do yourself is the methanol test - mix your sample of biodiesel at about 10% with methanol - it should almost be fully dissolved. If you have a phase at the bottom, this is where the impurities are.

From what I read, there seems to be significant differences in quality between even commercially produced biodiesel, some of which is very bad indeed. A simple test for quality is to mix equal volumes of biodiesel with water in a jar and give it a good shake. The two layers should separate quite quickly, leaving a cloudy but separate diesel layer and a very slightly milky water layer. If you get a thick band in between which doesn't separate, or even worse, a thick emulsion, you know you will have problems, either due to formation of soaps, incomplete transesterification, or insufficient washing.

There is apparently a lot of misinformation originating from Big Oil, most of which is a red herring. This was on the Journey to Forever site

But is that 'bio fuel' just rape seed oil or is it biodiesel produced from rape seed oil? One problem I have with using WVO, is the cleaning required; you can filter solid particles, and can evaporate the water content, but there are likely to be acidic products which some claim to have detrimental effects on the engine over time. If I was using WVO, I would definitely go the methoxide transesterification route. But also 80p per litre for WVO is very expensive; buy fresh rape seed oil from Lidl cheaper than that. I have heard that over here in Ireland, WVO runs at about 18c per litre

If you are referring to bio-diesel as the product of vegetable oil trans-esterified by sodium or potassium methoxide, my understanding is that any diesel engine will run on it without modification. I made a few test batches and put it through my old Musso, but that old Mercedes engine would run on anything. I had considered an Elsbett conversion for straight vegetable oil (SVO) (single tank for the Merc although it could probably get away without the conversion, at least in the summer, but dual tanks for the Disco), but I don't do enough miles to make it worthwhile. When I get time (and a suitable reaction vessel), I might have another crack at it, preferably from waste vegetable oil (WVO) though I'm sure Herself would have something to say about the 'frying food' smells coming from the garage.......

Definitely electrical ('cos the interior light dims slightly with each pulse) -pulses about 1 per second, duration a bit less than that. Hasn't happened again though, only a couple of times........

Just had my new 2002 Disco 2 a week - Iv'e searched past posts, but couldn't find an answer. I didn't notice at first, but when I turn off the ignition, there is a noise of something spinning down - what is it? Secondly, once or twice there was something electrical which was pulsing - enough to slightly dim the interior light - again after I had switched off. Anything to worry about?